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Don't carve this in stone, but from what I know, the 4wd axles will be longer than the 2wd. I know the 4wd runs a wheel with an offset similar to a fwd car where the 2wd runs (at least the OBS) runs a traditional rwd offset. I know the S-10s are the same kinda thing and the rear ends are a different width, so I'm assuming (I know what assuming does) that the full size are the same.
I understand, but if I'm to shorten the rear axles and use them in my OBS rear housing, it should work. I, like you, am assuming it will work. Now there is a small discrepency on the front rotors but I'm told a spacer should take care of that. Low91 is the one who is doing the swap or rather completed. There is another person on here who has done the conversion as well.
For now, it's more of a future mod than a necessity. Really want to get the thing running and iron out the smal details.
How much is the cost to shorten vs. the cost of just buying another set of axles? I would think that by the time that you buy the used axles and pay to have them modified, it wouldn't be a terribly big price difference.
WOOOOOOHOOOOOO! She's alive! I just need to finish off the harness loom and the either the custom exhaust or custom trans cross-member. Thanks to Lextech for the a/c bracket and pcm fix. Lastly, I need a smaller belt. I tried the one suggested but it's too long
Okay, so I tried and tried and here's my solution. I want to note that I did have to modify my 1997 Alternator in order to bolt it up on the Lextech bracket. There is a difference between using the OBS and NBS alternators! I ended up using a 1055K6 belt from Autozone(~$25) and a small timing belt idler from one of my timing belt kits on my Subaru. The idler is about the size of a quarter or so in diameter. ANyhow, here's a picture.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a82...1/IMAG0062.jpg
The issue I was having with the 1055K6 belt originally was that once installed, the belt looked okay but once I ran the engine for 10seconds(in order to seat belt) the tensioner pulley would move over to the point of touching the water pump pulley. The next smallest belt, a 1038K6 was too small. I tried installing a smaller idler(above the water pump) but to no avail. SO, I went back to the 1055K6 and added this small idler just before the a/c compressor in order to make up some slack and VIOLA!!! problem solved.
Hope this helps.
Attachment 5598I'm glad you got it sorted out. But, I don't understand how one belt can be so long that the idler pulley hits the water pump and the next size down will not even go on???? Here is a pic of the kit installed on my engine.
Jeff
Jeff,
That's exactly how the 1055k6 belt looks once installed. However, the change comes once the engine is run for a second. The tensioner moves over and touches the water pump. I have no problem in taking video of the setup if need be. Now, with this little deflection of the added idler, the tensioner acts normal and has plenty of clearance from the water pump.
I want to add that I think the big difference is the fact that I'm using the 1997 alternator vs the 2000 style alternator.
Jose
Well, it's alive although there are two injectors that aren't working. There part number is 25320288. They have 4 micro holes for fuel. I've got two injectors(part #25317628) which have two micro holes for fuel. Are they compatible? This is a stock engine(4.8L) Please let me know.
Jose
Went ahead and swapped in the two injectors. Drove the truck about two miles but I'm not registering any speed or trip, and lastly the ABS light is on. The ABS is understood as the VSS isn't working. I'll be checking the connectors tomorrow. Maybe a wire is loose.
Suggestions?