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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Jan 24 2007, 10:18 PM) [snapback]81121[/snapback]</div>Yeah that would be pretty harsh on the rods to spin it that high. I had planned on replacing the whole she-bang when the cam goes in.Quote:
Don't spin to 6700 with stock push rods. Get some hardened ones first or face the wrath of the GM L-shaped push rod.
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couple more questions...
I have the engine sitting underneath the carport here at my house. Its sealed in a big thick plastic bag and has a blanket laying on top of the plastic. Should I think about maybe spinning the rotating assembly a couple times? Would I have any issues with stuff being "froze" up?
pull the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders, then rotate the engine around a couple times and put the plugs back in. I'd rotate the engine around a couple times at least every two weeks. Humidity is a bitch on cylinder walls. If you're not going to be running the engine for a while you can pull the rockers loose and the cylinders will all be air tight and then they'll be secure from humidity/condensation.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Feb 2 2007, 11:09 PM) [snapback]82056[/snapback]</div>My buddy has a 98 with the vortec 350. He bought a used engine from a salvage yard with 32000 miles on engine. He burns about 2 quarts of oil every two weeks. I am sure the engine sat on the shelf awhile. Do you think that possibly the cylinder walls are tore up from sitting, thus causing this?Quote:
pull the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders, then rotate the engine around a couple times and put the plugs back in. I'd rotate the engine around a couple times at least every two weeks. Humidity is a bitch on cylinder walls. If you're not going to be running the engine for a while you can pull the rockers loose and the cylinders will all be air tight and then they'll be secure from humidity/condensation.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Feb 2 2007, 11:09 PM) [snapback]82056[/snapback]</div>Any other suggestions? Should I just use some normal 10w30 to squirt in there? How much should I put in? Should I put the oil pan back on the bottom? I dont know if the pan will fit with it being on the wooden stand.Quote:
pull the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders, then rotate the engine around a couple times and put the plugs back in. I'd rotate the engine around a couple times at least every two weeks. Humidity is a bitch on cylinder walls. If you're not going to be running the engine for a while you can pull the rockers loose and the cylinders will all be air tight and then they'll be secure from humidity/condensation.
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Get an oiling can and put a couple squirts in there. Shouldn't need more than that. Yes, put the oil pan on there to keep dust and dirt from getting in it. Dirt sticks to oil like glue. Large daily temp swings like we have here in TX causes numerous condensation issues. Make sure you didn't get a lot of dust or dirt in the engine during transport since it didn't have the pan on it. If you see dirt, get a syphon type sprayer for your air compressor and wash the inside of the block out with something such as kerosene. You don't want dirt running through the oil pump. If it's still clean, put the pan on it to seal it up otherwise mice, wasps and other unwanted things may try to setup home in there.
Yeah, high oil consumption on a salvage engine with low miles may point to pitted cylinders or a dishonest salvage dealer. They may have cleaned the engine after pulling it and water set in the cylinders all the time it was on the shelf.
Well i just noticed that we have no oil pan bolts, or spark plugs in the engine.
I also noticed that when I pulled the plastic off, the plastic encompassed the entire engine. As in, even though the oil pan was off, the BIG plastic I had sealed it up. Would I still need to worry about putting the oil pan on? Reason I ask is because I have to find bolts for the oil pan, and to mount up to the engine stand. Not saying it's going to be hard, but since the plastic covers the entire engine, Im just curious if I should bother with the oil pan?
You should be fine, just oil up the cylinders good. SDPC2000.com has the most honest prices for bolts if you have to buy some.
Yeah i squirted royal purple in the sparkplug holes, the intake holes on the valves, and inside where the exhaust holes bolt up, and then rotated it few times. The intake manifold for the truck is sitting in my room because its brand new and yeah I dont feel like putting it on. Once I get the engine in the truck Ill probably flush it pretty good.
back up to the top... got some more questions.
- when I get ready to swap, do I need to drain ALL fluids out? (coolant, engine oil, tranny fluid)?
- Is it hard to reach the bolts to unbolt the back of the engine from the tranny?
- The intake manifold is already off of the engine, should I put the manifold on before setting the engine in?
- I need to purchase gaskets for the oil pan and the intake manifold. Should I just go to the dealer to get some? Also, what is the best way to bolt the pan and intake manifold down? Like how should I tighten down the bolts? (and how tight should they be)?
I guess that's all for now. Ill have more later :thumb: