You may have missed a power lead for the coil packs or injectors. Also, make sure your crank sensor and cam sensor connectors are plugged in and the leads aren't shorted out or cut.
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You may have missed a power lead for the coil packs or injectors. Also, make sure your crank sensor and cam sensor connectors are plugged in and the leads aren't shorted out or cut.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Apr 26 2006, 07:22 PM) [snapback]51330[/snapback]</div>I'll check the cam sensor. That was the one that got ripped off during the install (my goof up for attempting with wiring attached :bash: ). Power leads for packs or injectors? Isn't that all on the stock main engine harness?Quote:
You may have missed a power lead for the coil packs or injectors. Also, make sure your crank sensor and cam sensor connectors are plugged in and the leads aren't shorted out or cut.
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Yeah, there are all kinds of power leads in the harness to be handled. Just pull the connector off the coil packs and injectors and check for power when switched on. If you are getting spark, you could be having the same problem I had on my first engine, frozen injectors.
I was doing a transmission rebuild and pinched the cam sensor wires between the engine and transmission case, cutting the wires. Truck wouldn't start afterwards. I had to resolder all the cut leads. :thumbdown: :tantrum:
OK... camshaft sensor Red & Brn/wht wires were switched. You hit the nail on the head with INJA, INJB, etc. No power to the fuses AT ALL! Now trying to figure out why. I see why so much goes into harness pricing. Eiy Yeiy Yeiy! *sigh*
Made it over a big hurdle tonight... It crank'd over, but died right after. Gonna take more time tomorrow to map out additional power leads. Breathing a sigh of relief. Motor's good, and open headers/manofolds are LOUD! :laugh:
More later... *edit* found out that VATS was NOT removed from the PCM. NUTS!!!!!
Bummer Dude. At least you got to hear it roar to life. Time to work out the little things. :thumb:
How far does your motor sit from the firewall? Did you have to notch anything to keep the stock a/c compressor? How well do the exhaust manifolds clear?
The back of the intake is about 3 inches (at least) off the firewall. That allows me to run the stock A/C compressor. If I move it back, the back of the compressor hits the motor mounts.
As for plates, I bought mine from BRP. They can be moved around to accomodate the position that satisfies you. I chose to mount forward b/c I wanted the stock A/C. Since I'd have to pay for custom exhaust anyhow, I sacrificed position for that. Frame notching is a must in the 81 - 87 trucks using stock NBS manifolds. Unless you have f-body manifolds. Apparently, those hug the block more. Clearance w/o notching may not be an issue.
It doesnt look like you had to notch the frame at all to fit the engine with the A/C Compressor.
So all you have to do is get car headers and the Brp Motor mount plates? What about your A/C lines? What are you gonna do to adapt those to your existing A/C system?
Have a contact within 20 miles that a budy is getting custom AC lines fab'd. I'll be doing the same thing after the trucks moving on it's own power.
If I had car manifolds w/o EGR, I may not have had to notch the frame. I haven't been concentrating on the manifolds yet. That'll get handled before I drive it to the exhaust shop.