I forgot to add that I have to add in an OBD-II plug in order to scan for codes.
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I forgot to add that I have to add in an OBD-II plug in order to scan for codes.
IIRC you also need to keep the wires for your tach
Yup, that's one I forgot, hahaha. I'm telling you, if I do another swap...I'm going to buy the pre-made harness from someone. It's just so much quicker. Well, Ecu is off to get reprogrammed. I can't wait to get this on the road.
I do have one concern, my 4.8l exhaust y-pipe looks like it might hit my trans cross-member. Anyone have any input on this? I think most everyone uses a set of "swap headers".
Yep, I'm using swap headers also. Honestly your best bet is to have a y pipe made
Well, the ecu and Lextech's a/c bracket kit are on their way to me. Really excited to get this on the road. Going to have to drive it "open header" to the exhaust shop in order to get the Y-pipe cut/modified/welded on. Should be pretty nice. I've already got a Flowmaster 50-series I scored from the salvage yard in there for $15!!!!
Bolted up the OEM(2000) Y-pipe and there is a small problem. The cross-pipe(from drivers side over to the pass. side) goes right under the trans. mount!!!! Either I chop/cut and modify the y-pipe or I custom build a new trans cross-member. I'm thinking plan "B" for right now. Going to have to find some 3/8" flat bar at least...maybe some box tubing.
Sunday update:
Found at the salvage yard the NBS trans cross member($17). Also found a pair of 10-bolt, 6lug rear axle shafts($19ea). I didn't purchase the rear axles because I am not really sure that they will work. My question is about the rear brake drums. Can I simply re-drill them for 6 lug?
I'll post a picture of the trans. mount dilemma later on today.