Awesome man, glad you have it running. It looks great, and you will love how it runs.
The T56 is a blast in a truck
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Awesome man, glad you have it running. It looks great, and you will love how it runs.
The T56 is a blast in a truck
Quote:
Originally Posted by pnhigg
haha i absolutely love it. and thanks to you pat for all your help i probably have at least a hundred emails all in my inbox i sent to you just so i could check them out again if i needed haha. i just have to get it to the 1/4 and see what it runs im hopeing somewhere in the 13's (low 13's preferably.)
It seems like it should have a low to mid 13 in it.
I have only had my truck at the track a couple times and both times I sat in smoke with no traction.
I am probably going with some caltracs sometime soon, and since you already are planning that, you should be alright.
Slicks or drag radials may also be an order.
Yeah im getting a set of caltracs soon too i have 285/30/20 drag radials on it right now. also it might help that i put the actual short throw t-56 shifter in mine and cut anothe hole in my floor. the shifts ARE EXTREMELY quick and very close together. the truck hooks like no ones business... the springs on the obs trucks suck my uncle put worm screw hose clamps on either side of my springs and clamped them together... i kind of laughed at first but WOW it made a million times difference... so hopefully a set of cal tracs should fix it all together... the truck absolutely hauls ass.. and i still need an K&N intake, caltracs, and a few other small goodies. maybe some N02 down the road a bit. so my goal right now is low 13's and someday id like to break 12'sQuote:
Originally Posted by pnhigg
I love it when a plan comes together! lol Sounds like a great ride. Be sure to let us know how you cure the fuel level gauge dilema. Would like to know for myself.
Ok guys, this has been driving me crazy. What I've come up with is you need to put a 96/97 fuel pump and sending unit in your tank or install some type of resistor in line. In 98 the fuel pump and sending unit changed and that's when they started sending the signal through the PCM. If I can find out the proper resisitor I'll post it. I'm thinking a 100 ohm to start out with. The 98-2000 cluster work fine in the 96/97's with no modifications so it has to be the sending unit and fuel pump assembly.
well on my 98 sending unit its 40 ohms to 248 ohms and i thought the 97 and earlyer was 0 to 90
please let me know what you find out because i really want it to work properly... id rather not changed my pump etc but a resistor would be nice... where exaclty would the resisitor go???
Do you still have the stock 1998 PCM in the truck? If not, reinstall it. Or did you remove all the wiring that wasn't being used or plugged into the new engine.
If you have removed all the goods, you can buy a fuel bucket from a 96-97 model salvage truck and swap it out with yours or at least trade out the float level mechanism somehow. The resistor block that the arm sweeps against is what you will probably need. Trace back the wiring that goes from the float to the PCM an splice that wire to the wire that goes to the fuel level gauge in the instrument cluster.
Greg is right but I believe you'll have to replace the fuel pump also since the 98's come as a complete sending fuel pump unit. The variable resistor on the sending unit for the 96-97 trucks has to be the key to making the 98 work unless we can put a resistor of some sort in line.. This is part of the reason why Dakota Digital won't make the 96-2000 cluster.