if u want to sell that harness let me know
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if u want to sell that harness let me know
so mine's running as of last thursday - the no-spark was a computer issue, got the tune fixed & it fired right up. HOLY CRAP!!! the 5.3 (even as stock as it is) is so much better than the v6! i really have a hard time keeping my foot out of 2nd gear.
some quick questions, though...
what would cause the message center to keep flashing the red battery picture? it'll be on a few seconds then off a few seconds over & over. i have a new battery & the alternator tested fine.
also, the idle is acting a little funky. when i start it, it jumps to about 1900 then settles to about 700-800 (tune is set to 700). after a little bit, though, it'll slowly drop to around 500 & occasionally dip to 475-450-ish when it's in neutral or with the clutch in.
another thing is do the V6 & V8 use the same VSS? or is the tachometer calibration different? the reason i ask is because the speedometer seems to sometimes be mathematically off a bit from the tach - for example: around town, it seems to be fine, but on the interstate, i was showing 2000rpm and 61-62mph. with my 265/75-16 tires, 3.73 gears, and .73 OD i should be doing 69mph at 2000rpm. i'll have to check to see if the odometer is accurate next time i go to work. i called the tuner & he looked up my tune & said the tire size & diff gears were set correctly. any ideas?
Well first off, congrats on getting it going
"also, the idle is acting a little funky. when i start it, it jumps to about 1900 then settles to about 700-800 (tune is set to 700). after a little bit, though, it'll slowly drop to around 500 & occasionally dip to 475-450-ish when it's in neutral or with the clutch in."
By your year i'm assuming you have a throttle cable style intake and not fly by wire. I am not sure but it may be your throttle positioning sensor or motor. These two items are located on the drivers side of the throttle body and could contribute to your wierd idle because in the winter when its cold my v6 does the same thing and my mechanic told me it was one of these culprits. As far as your guages and tach not working i don't have a guess on that one...
I got my harness all squared away. A the owner from KNOX Auto Supply was a real help and was able to next day air ship me one from TN so i could still do my swap this weekend. Hey also when doing this v8 swap can you use the stock v6 torque converter???
thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeper1500
yep - cable throttle (DBW started in 03). tomorrow, i plan on getting some MAF cleaner & spraying the IAC down & also resetting the TPS (i was told to disconnect the negative battery for 10min while i remove & reinstall the sensor)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadingglories
as for the cold... well, it ain't really. even if it was, i would understand it idling high (around 1500-ish) for a minute, but living around 500 or less is wrong
Knox Auto was a let-down for me. the shop owner where i did my swap gets stuff from them all the time & i bought an 02 L59 from them but when it got here, the harness was cut & some of the accessories i bought were missing :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadingglories
the replacement 02 LM7 they sent looked like crap (from sitting on the warehouse shelf for 3 years [keep in mind, i specifically said to not send an engine that'd been sitting more than a couple months]) and was missing an exhaust manifold. we just ended up doing a complete return/refund.
a month later, i finally found a fresh (in the yard a month, still in the truck) 01 LM7 in tompkinsville, ky
as for the V6 converter - i believe you can use it, but i'm a standard guy so what do i know?! :)
yep...i ran mine for about a year, till i got a cam/stallQuote:
Originally Posted by Fadingglories
how long has your transmission lasted?Quote:
Originally Posted by banker099
mine just went out saturday after doing full exhaust thursday. so now i gotta wait ti get some more money to get tranny built
here's some pics of motor and swap completion:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...1/IMG_0589.jpghttp://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...1/IMG_0602.jpghttp://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...1/IMG_0613.jpghttp://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...1/IMG_0637.jpghttp://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...1/IMG_0630.jpghttp://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...1/IMG_0631.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...1/IMG_0652.jpg
well this Dec will be 2 yrs since my swap....still going strong....my truck/trans has bout 75000 on it, so take that into consideration, has a no TM and just a corvette servo, and trans coolerQuote:
Originally Posted by DennisG_02Silverado
Dennis, that's one clean motor!
good job on the swap
so does anybody have any clue about my battery light issue?
thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by zebra
have you checked the alternator, making sure it puts out what it should.... also check all battery connections
like i said earlier, connections are good, alternator's good, new battery
however, i found out the battery light problem the other day...
after talking with Jared @ Current Performance, he mentioned that he's seen a bunch of 99 model trucks getting newer motors and doing this - it's throwing code P1638 (if i remember right) which is a Generator Terminal Code. it comes from something about how the newer motors not liking the way the truck 'talks' to the alternator or something. that code just has to be tuned out
Yeah i am using a 2000 wiring harness on a 2006 motor and components and luckily i have a very good friend who will do a custom dyno tune for me and bleep out the EGR valve that the harness is set up for. My status right now is that i have My v6 out and my v8 ready to be put in but my v8 frame mounts are wrong so i am praying that the dealership has them in stock tomorrow morning. I probably could have had the thing running by midnight if i had not hit this problem which is pretty good considering that i started this morning thanks to the original post and the detail that went into it.
i went to the junkyard and got my motor frame mounts. just looked for a 2wd v8 truck
Well I got my 5.3 in and everything connected and went to fire it up and it wants to run but wont. It says absolutley no oil pressure and it fires up for a split second and then dies. I know this information is very vague but its all i have right now. Any ideas?
if it starts then dies immediately, you probably have a VATS issue. try a security relearn & i think you'll be fine. as for oil pressure, the oil pump ain't got time to build pressure if it dies right off
+1
Ok so my friend completely removed my vats from my computer (i still have a aftermarket alarm with starter kill) and it started right up and sounded mean but i had to shut it right off again because there is NO oil pressure and the valves are clacky as hell. I am going to pull the motor and check the oil pickup tube o-ring. I am pretty sure the stupid kid i bought the motor from messed it up when he had it taken apart. If this doesn't solve my problem i am going to save a couple of weeks and put in a 6.0 because i really don't feel like messing around with a stupid oil pump because i have read it is not so simple.
if youre going to pull the motor again you might as well just put in a brand new and bigger aftermarket oil pump to be safe. Its not that difficult if the motor is already out of the vehicle and it should only run you about 200 bucks depending where you shop around at. The oil pickup tubes are notorious for causing low oil pressure in these motors though. You will need to make sure that the tube and o-ring are seated correctly in the hole and that the tube is not the cause of your problem first.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadingglories
Yes so I went through all the trouble of pulling the motor this morning, replacing the oil pump, reassembling everything but now its on like what may be limp mode (a friend said it could be this but ive never heard of limp mode) and the truck won't shift into 1st or 2nd and when you take off its in 3rd or overdrive. It shifts flawlessly into park, neutral, etc but not 1st or 2nd. any ideas
sounds like the trans is in limp mode - basically in 1:1 gear (3rd) to let you roll around if necessary until you get it fixed.
possible solutions - i got nothing... i'm a standard transmission guy, sorry
Its ok it started slipping today too. time to start saving for a built 4l60... i too have that battery light on and its repeatedly throwing a crank position learning code p1336 or something like that
You need to get a crank relearn done
did u have tranny problems before the swap?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadingglories
No no tranny problems before this at all. I just think that it was about to go out anyways. Now i have to limp it around town and stuff till I get enough $ to get a decent tranny. A reputable shop quoted me 1100 for a built tranny with a 1 year warranty, Does this sound about right?
my tranny went out two weeks ago, when i did my swap about a month ago. tranny lost 2nd completly then couple days later it wouldnt even go in gear. never had any problems with it before
get my built tranny back tomorrow morning :)
thats pretty resonable..... i paid a couple less than that at local tranny builder, that does nothing but gm rwd transmissionsQuote:
Originally Posted by Fadingglories
i guess i better consider myself lucky, im still on my original v6 tranny
ok i got my tranny back yesterday from the shop. took me alittle while but i got it installed. still dont't go in gear
first of all bout three weeks ago, 2nd gear went out. then couple days later the truck just wouldnt do anything while pulling into a parking lot.
emptied tranny fluid, no shavings nor smelled burnt. disconnected lines and no fluid flowing through
got trans back and they said nothing was broken inside but the installed a beast sunshell, however couple of clutches burned and bands. i installed it, put tranny fluid in. let truck run began to put more in and check. put truck in gear nothing.... anyway
they said my converter might not be shimmed right...... i was like ok i drove thetruck for two weeks with no problem after swap. then they said it could be wrong bell housing??? i think they never checked the pump to begin with, bc i'm still not getting fluid flow after their competion rebuild
has anyone ever had to shim the torque converter?
is there a different bell housing for v8 trucks?? called chevy dealer and they said it was the same
I am a newbie when it comes to auto transmissions but i have never heard of anyone shimming anything on the torque converter. My dad bought a built trans a couple of years ago and had problems from the second he installed it and thought it was him when it turned out that the tranny shop put it together wrong. In the end he ended up with a free install and a couple of free upgrades. Back to your shimming, From the little that i know i believe the torque converter just slides onto some splines and thats it.
bell housing is the same, and ive never heard of shimming the TC
thats what i thought.... i'm pulling the tranny back out tomorrow morning and taking it to the guy. he just started throwing these excuses at me prolly bc he hasnt had anyone to build a tranny thats done a swap like this.
How did your tranny work? I got mine back and got a smokin deal on it and it works great. I just wish i had put in a cam or a 6.0 now but thats another day perhaps...Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisG_02Silverado
well i took it back out, and took them the tranny. turns out the pump was missing the teeth that the convertor hooked on. and the pump rotor was in 4 pieces, the race on outside of that was in three....Quote:
Originally Posted by Fadingglories
Got it all back together and in truck, now i have 1500 miles on new rebuild. works and shifts real good. Now i want a 6.0 which i regret not getting it from the beginning...... I'm thinking of building a 6.0 for next summer :)
i want more power
^^ :laugh:
i've got about 1500mi on my swap now, too
still ain't really had a chance/place to really let it rip or make me wish i'd got a 6.0 or cam. it did, however, make a nice pull to 100-ish a few weeks ago.
one day i won't have to work all the time...
then it'll be cam time :)
well i have almost 2800 on swap, and about 1500 on trans........... yes i drive alot but just want to break the crap in
4.3 to 8.1 swap isnt that hard either. If any one needs info just let me know :D
well, if anything, pictures are an order! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by xx_ED_xx
wouldn't you have to rebuild the trans tunnel to stuff the allison in and get beefier front shocks to handle the extra weight etc.... My dad did a v8 swap on a 4 cyl once and said he had nothing but trouble with the front end after that due to undersized everything. I am not trying to shoot anyone down. i think that would be the truck of all trucks if you could squeeze it in to a short bed regular cab ;)