Will this work on a 1989 c1500 2wd lq4 6.0 4l60e swap. My speedo don't workQuote:
Originally Posted by HPICamaroSS
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Will this work on a 1989 c1500 2wd lq4 6.0 4l60e swap. My speedo don't workQuote:
Originally Posted by HPICamaroSS
Took the truck to the sand dunes over Memorial weekend.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UTr3...youtu.be....It did SOOO much better than my old tbi motor. I have only had a few problems so far. When I filled the truck up the fuel guage got stuck at full. So i dropped the tank and found out that the walbro 255 that i put in along with the conversion harness caused the float to get stuck at the top. a few zip ties solved that problem. If you go with the same fuel setup that I did, make sure u zip tie that extra long harness to the lines inside the tank. In the dunes i know my driveshaft was hitting my transfercase when the suspension would preload, so I am going to have it shortened 2". Called my local driveline shop and they said they would do it for 60 bucks. Another problem is my speedo not working in 4wd. Im guessing its the vss?
Hey everyone, I need some help getting my tach working the right way. I have nelsons tune and harness, and I have their tach wire hooked up to my white wire behind the glove box. I have my stock cluster, and a autometer tach and they both work, BUT they both read really low. At idle its at 0RPMs, and when I floor it the highest it will go is about 1500RPMS and I know I am way higher than that.
I called Nelson a few days ago and ray said try switching the autometer to the "4cyl pulse mode". So I did that, and that made the autometer tach read really high. It is reading at 1500 RPMS at idle and the needle is shakey. The stock cluster did not change: It still reads low.
IDEAS?
On another note, having my driveshaft shortened 2" tomorrow :-)
Sounds to me like you're trying to use vehicle speed for tach signal.
Try this.http://www.lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm
Please give a feedback if it work. I will need to wire mine to in the future.
I am sending my ecm back into Nelson and they are going to try and recalibrate it first. I will let you guys know how it worksQuote:
Originally Posted by bobbylog
Im pretty sure the tach wire (on the obs) is the white wire. Unless I have the wrong white wireQuote:
Originally Posted by Wagonbacker9
Sounds like you need a resistor inline with the tach module. There is one year of pcm that has a very weak signal to the tach. Do you know what year your tune is from? Is it dbw?
I have no idea what year the pcm was but I just sent it back to nelson and they already have a new one for me on the way. They changed the pulse cycle to see if that helps. Once I get it I will let you know. Hopefully its right because if its not then I will have to send it back again, and have them change it back to where it originally was, then try putting that resistor in. I want to say that tune was from a 2002 because I recall them saying those were the easiest to tune. I know it was a 0411 ecm.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
Computers used were 09354896 from 99-00, and 12200411 from 01-02Quote:
Originally Posted by HPICamaroSS
I meant that you were possibly supplying the tach with vehicle speed info.Quote:
Originally Posted by HPICamaroSS
Got my "retune" back from nelson which was basically them just adjusting the tach so i didn't have to put a resistor in it. Seems ALOT closer now. Once I get the scan tool I can hookup to confirm RPMS. Thanks to Erica and Ray at Nelson Performance.
Sumthins up...my t case is extremley loud when I am slowing down. It makes a terrible grinding noise. It isnt constand though. I sounds like someone grinding gears trying to get it into gear. Theres like "pulses" of grinding like RRRRRRRRRRR...(1second)......RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.... (1second).......RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRr and so on. It only does it when I am coming to a stop. It does it from about 20mph to 0. Then it will do it for a little bit more while I am at a dead stop. Sounds like a buncha gremlins crawled into my tcase! What could it be? Dam 6.0s just have too much power lol
An update on my head/cam build.
cnc ported 243 head
tsp cam
arp head bolts
stock head gaskets
intake gaskets
pac springs
ls7 lifters cups and trays/retainers
slp ported ls1 oil pump and timing chain kit
arp rod bolts
3000 stall
also drilling and tapping the oil cooler line block off plate for an oil pressure sensor going to my pillar pod with autometer digital cobalt gauge
TCI tranny cooler
Heres an update of the head/ cam build. The PRC 2.5 Ported LS6 heads are on, 228r cam is in, slp oil pump and dbl roller chain is on. Found out for the ARP rod bolts that you have to have ur rods honed and clearanced by a machine shop so that was 50 bucks, threw some cam bearings in while it was in there for another 70. A Few problems I ran into: Was torqueing the oil pan down to 18 ft lbs and it cracked... The SLP ported oil pump is VERY close to everything. VERY close to the timing chain and it actually hits the front cover so I am going to grind that down. Like I said, the ARP bolts went to a machine shop to be installed because they have a taper right under the head that wont allow them to seat all the way. If you use stock intake gaskets and ARP head bolts, you will have to grind down the smaller head bolts because they dont allow your intake to seat all the way and you will have a vac leak. I went with option 2 : buying intake gaskets from napa which is the FELPRO series and they are very thick allowing the intake to clear the head bolts just fine. Last, I clearanced my rockers for my valve springs because the clearance seemed to close for comfort. Just took a die grinder and ground off the 2 ears under the arm where it was really close to the spring retainer. Might upgrade to yella terras next season. Waiting for my 3200 stall from Circle D right now then i should be good to go.
Forgot to mention when ordering a stall for a 4l80e through circle d, you will prob need a different style flex plate. I had to order there SFI plate which was another 150 because their converter requires a flexplate that doesnt have a spacer on it. ( the 6.0s w/ 4l80e have that spacer). I could have gotten a stock 5.3 plate but the SFI plates are dbl welded and much stronger etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by HPICamaroSS
Still waiting for my 8.1 injectors and retune from Nelson Performance, they should be here Monday and then I can fire it up! I also want to thank Nelson's for all the help they have given me. Here a pic of my latest add on- i had a friend that owns a sticker business make me this windshield banner. And on a nother note, when I had my rods machined for the ARP rod bolts, the engine shop DID NOT replace the main cap studs/nuts or side bolts. I have heard they are reuseable and then some say they aren't. Any input? Either way I am re using them because the motor is in and ready to fire lol
Heres my video from the dyno tune I did earlier this summer. TJ @ Baker Engineering in Nunica, MI helped me out. I also want to thank TSP and Nelson Performance for everything they have helped me with whether it was parts or service. Trying to figure out what I am doing to it next for my winter project!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jfo1FC3MjD8
Heres another idle video....with a small rev to 2k http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yy2wO5L2oVU