The single wire is the f-body sensor. Maybe others too but my 1998 and 2002 harness both had the single lead sensor.
Printable View
The single wire is the f-body sensor. Maybe others too but my 1998 and 2002 harness both had the single lead sensor.
I think I'll leave the stock one as is.
Ran into a minor hurdle. As you know, the Pacesetters I bought (cheap) won't work. I traded those off for other stuff, and I have a set of 6.0L manifolds. The driver-side is tight, but will mount flush. The passenger-side is still too tight. There will still be 0.5" D x 1.0" L notch that'll have to be done to get the 6.0L manifolds to fit. This is frustrating, but one must push on.
*Deep Breath*
There's still uncertainty about how I wanna run fuel. It'll be braided lines, but due to exhaust clearance issues, I'll have to re-route lines differently (as do the NBS trucks). No problem. I now have my tuned PCM, MAF, and the smaller NBS radiator. I'm waiting on the e-fans & another wiring harness. I'm going to concentrate on getting fuel lines finished by this weekend (hopefully). Water lines and trans lines will have to be taken care of too.
Is anyone using custom lines for trans, and a trans cooler seperate from the radiator? I have a seperate trans cooler, and pulled the trans ports on the radiator.
too bad you didn't get f-body exhausts. they hug the block really tight. the fuel system should be easy to do and shouldn't take you very long. Are you using the external fuel pump? all you have to do is buy the Wix 33737 Corvette fuel filter since it's internally regulated and plumb it inline between the pump and manifold. It will require a (2) 3/8" and (1) 5/16" female quick connectors and one 3/8" male connector. The braided stainless hose isn't truly necessary. You can use fuel injection quality hose that has the teflon tubing encased in the rubber hose. I always use the hose clamps that are smooth inside to protect the OD of the rubber hose. Dorman makes the quick connects I use.
The metal lines I have now need to be cut. Instead of cutting, and flaring, I'll just use two braided lines of different sizes to make two 106" runs (feed & return).
Here's some of the wiring repairs from a goof-up during the first mock up. They're not the clearest, but you'll see the "uh oh" that had to be repaired.
Camshaft Position Sensor Connector (Pic 1)
Camshaft Position Sensor Connector (Pic 2)
Camshaft Position Sensor Connector (Pic 3)
Camshaft Position Sensor Connector (Pic 4)
Got tired of looking at the OBS wiring all curled up... lookie what I doo'd:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../OBSWiring.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...OBSWiring2.jpg
you bout got er done!nice work! that engine looks great in your short bed. i'll be watching, im gettin ready to put the 5.3 in my 95 s-10. dont be afraid to use the rubber fuel injection hose, it works great, i used it when i swapped an LT1 into my old 86 IROC,did you get a tune from allen? i assume the VATS is deprogrammed and you can run your digital gauges off the new engine harness?where did you get your motor mounts.keep up the good work! :thumb:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tim Z @ Feb 12 2006, 04:55 PM) [snapback]44298[/snapback]</div>Motor Mounts - BRPQuote:
you bout got er done!nice work! that engine looks great in your short bed. i'll be watching, im gettin ready to put the 5.3 in my 95 s-10. dont be afraid to use the rubber fuel injection hose, it works great, i used it when i swapped an LT1 into my old 86 IROC,did you get a tune from allen? i assume the VATS is deprogrammed and you can run your digital gauges off the new engine harness?where did you get your motor mounts.keep up the good work! :thumb:
[/b]
PCM Tune - Thunder Racing
Fuel Lines - Summit Racing (future purpose - Allen recommendation)
Gauges - stock (for the initial turn key)
I have the same tune that a buddy of mine had when he ran 12.59 with his 5.3L... except my motor has one or two more surprises. My budget's depleted for the moment. I still need to purchase fuel lines (and fittings), driveshaft, POSI & gears, and exhaust. I can run the truck with the stock gauges. I just won't have a speedo or tach. Seems like small change, so hopefully, it can be rolling before summer.
Thanks to a buddy of mine for having the idea of using a recip saw instead of a torch... Got another baby step further. At least now, I can look to getting custom exhaust fab'd for this tight squeeze.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ameRail003.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ameRail002.jpg