L94 & 6L80 Into My '92 2dr K1500 Blazer

Got the L94 in and test fitted today! It's back out now, but I learned a lot doing this. First, my oil pan is fine as is. It's one inch higher than the suspension nearby and the front crossmember. It's three inches higher than the front Diff skid plate. One of these days I'll add a skid plate that covers both the Diff and the oil pan. Also, tons of clearance everywhere, except for one spot I'll talk about in my next post. More than enough room to install the exhaust manifolds after engine installation. Also, no need to remove most of the accessories to drop the engine in. The power steering pump is the exception. Pretty hard to get the motor mount through bolt in place with the PS pump in place.Attachment 9643Attachment 9641Attachment 9642Attachment 9644Attachment 9645

Attachment 9646Attachment 9647Attachment 9648There is a boss that is damn close to the motor mount, maybe 1/8" at best. Also, a tab on the oil pan is awfuly close, the tab right by the offending boss. I'm thinking of grinding about 1/4" of the boss and tab off. Is there any reason I shouldn't? There's no way it could ever be used considering where it is...

Got my exhaust manifolds back from being ceramic coated...Attachment 9649

Got the fan mounts done. I'll post pics of the fan shroud later, I had to chop it up a bit to make it fit. Most of that won't show though, should look pretty factory. BTW, the connectors for the motors are GM # 13580874 or ACDelco PT2649. $15 at Amazon.

Here's the Fan pics. This would be a great mod even for a Stock 350. I picked up a low mileage fan setup complete for $120 on eBay.

I trimmed the bottom down about 1/2" so that it was even with the ridge. Trim the top by the same amount the bottom was trimmed. I also had to remove the driver's side bottom mount; it interfered with the frame. You can see I trimmed the middle mount too. I had to notch the top on both sides to clear the top radiator supports. I cut off extensions on both the left and right side which left a hole, as you can see on the passenger side. I'll patch that later. Then I braced the bottom radiator support with 1/8" x 3" aluminum plate. Below that I mounted a 1/8" x 1.25" steel plate angle iron. That was mounted as to leave 3/8" clearance from the bottom radiator support. I stopped short of my winch control box on the passenger side. The extra wide portion of the bottom support circled in red matches up perfectly with the passenger side bottom mount on the fan shroud.

Later, I'll use a piece of sheet metal to complete the top mount. I'll clean up the cuts with some sandpaper; should look pretty factory when it's done, at least from the top. LOL

This works great! There'es a bit of space on the left and right side between the shroud and the radiator--about 3/8"--which I'll fill with heat resistant foam tape. Easy to put bolt up, easy to remove. Just slide the fan shroud down into the gap between the angle iron and the bottom radiator support, install bolts at top. Factory parts and lots of airflow.
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Got the Holley AC bracket on. Very nice; looks factory. There is one issue. If you look at the idler pulley I circled in red, you can see it is not needed. If you use all of the Holley LS brackets, the belt comes up to the top of the AC compressor from the water pump; so it is needed in that case. However, if you're only using the Holley AC bracket and the rest of the brackets are GM, the belt routes from under the upper right idler pulley to the top of the AC. The circled pulley actually hurts you in this case. It put's the belt closer to being up in the way, it reduces contact with the AC pulley and it adds one more pulley that can fail.

I haven't decided for sure yet, but I think I'll cut off the boss that holds the red circled pulley.Attachment 9656Attachment 9657Attachment 9658

Before you remove that pulley, double check the belt routing. Does Holley offer any information on the routing?

Only if you are using all Holley Accessory brackets. The stock belt routing is required with the GM Accessory brackets--with a small modification to include the AC pulley. Holley has no info on routing if using the GM brackets. Not a big deal, there is only one possible way to route the belt. With the stock GM brackets, the belt MUST come from the bottom of the driver's side idler pulley over to the Passenger side Idler pulley and across the AC pulley, like I show in the Pics. There is no other way. With the Holley brackets the belt comes from the bottom of the water pump pulley and up to the passenger side idler pulley. In that instance, the passenger side idler is absolutely required. I'm going to call Holley before I cut the boss off the bracket, but the more I look at it the more I'm convinced it's the way to go. It'll work with that Pulley there, It looks like a better option not to have it though.

Just spent all day working on cleaning up the wiring from the old harness. The wires going to the old PCM will be cut off and labeled leaving a long pigtail for possible future use for whatever wires need to go from engine bay to cabin. Some wires need to stay--AC and the like. Thank god for wiring diagrams; there's been a couple of wires I might have cut that I actually need... There's been a couple of anomalies as well. A couple of different circuits listed as going to the same pin on the PCM. An error I'm sure. Also, the power--pink wire--to the coil shows NO FUSE? That seems unlikely, but the diagram shows the circuit coming from the ignition switch with no fuse protecting it--just the fusible link that protects the ignition switch itself. This might be true, but I'm going to power the switch and start pulling fuses to see if there is in fact a fuse protecting that circuit. I need to know, because I plan on powering the new harness with that circuit.