New Life for a truck passed its prime

Update.
First. Im pissed at Thunder Racing right now. I ordered my cam last monday. The said it was on backorder so I called them to cancel my order so I could order from somewhere else and get it ASAP. They said they were getting them the next day and would ship 1-2 day shipping. I called yesterday to make sure it had shipped and they said they wont get it til tomorrow!! I wanted it on my doorstep yesterday! This is major player in my process and is holding me up! End rant.

Today I did a mock install. My wiring buddy Tim gave me a bad 5.3 block, 5.3 heads, 5.3 intake and rail to put in as a mock setup and test fitment. Results:
Good:
DRIVE SHAFT IS CORRECT LENGTH!!
Headers will work but drivers side is only bout two inches away from shift arm.
If I get tired of waiting on TR I can go ahead an install the motor then put cam in.
Bad:
Shift linkage is to long between the frame rail and shift arm.
Current shift arm is not compatible with neutral-safety switch.
New holes will have to be drilled in frame for new trans crossmember location. (no biggie)
DBW pedal will not be such a simple bolt in installation. May require drilling new holes and/or shortening the pedal arm.

If you have solutions for the bad please speak up. A quick search yielded unhelpful results.

Pics:
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1048.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01533.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1049.jpg
There is enough room to change the cam after I install the engine if I need to.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1050.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1051.jpg
You can see here how close the header is to the shift arm.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1052.jpg
Although I barely got it in there, being smashed all the way in like it is puts it in a bind to shift. Also, when the arm rotates it hits the wire loom on the frame rail.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01531.jpg
You might be able to see here that this arm is not compatible with a neutral safety switch.

you don't need a neutral safety switch, its built into the factory column. That is exactly how my 80e is setup and working fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat

you don't need a neutral safety switch, its built into the factory column. That is exactly how my 80e is setup and working fine.

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OH. So doesnt the 5.3 ecm need a signal from a NS switch?

I shortened my shifter linkage a lil bit to help keep it from binding. I just cut it in the straight section and welded it back together.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 92 6.0

I shortened my shifter linkage a lil bit to help keep it from binding. I just cut it in the straight section and welded it back together.

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Thats what I was thinking but Red said his is in with no mods. ?

I didnt even realize it til Tim mentioned it but this trans has a bolt in yoke. Will a th400 slip yoke work in this trans?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flattopwill

I didnt even realize it til Tim mentioned it but this trans has a bolt in yoke. Will a th400 slip yoke work in this trans?

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unbolt the tailshaft housing and see what type of output shaft is splined all the way up or just a few inches. In my 80e conversion topic I have pictures of both styles. If your's has the oring on the output shaft then it won't work very well as a slip yoke driveshaft. You can have a custom driveshaft made with the slip yoke in the driveshaft to save the cost of having the transmission output shaft swapped.

is the linkage bracket on the transmission backwards?

Here is a pic of my output shaft. Why wouldn't a slip yoke work with it?
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/7a022ad5.jpg
I tried the shift bracket every possible way and that is the only way it will work with the shift arm. And no way will work with an NS switch. So my truck has a NS switch on the steering column? Do I tap into that to send a signal to the ECM?

Thats cool that your driveshaft length is right, I noticed you went with the trans dapt motor mounts. P# 4572 says (factory location). I thought most move the motor back 1". Is every truck different? I would like to get away with having to cut or extend either driveshaft. Also where did you find that kit for $45?

not enough spline length engagement. You physically could remove your driveshaft without unbolting it from the rear of the truck if the rear end was unloaded of weight by hitting a large swell in the road that caused a 0g effect on the truck.

It will work like that but it can be dangerous. Be sure to weld in the hole in the hole of the bolt on yoke so fluid doesn't flow out of it.