Try me. :dancenana::dancenana:
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Drier, condenser, evap, expansion valve, compressor, new lines? Damn, you need a new truck. I'm sending a wrecker to haul off your POS eyesore. :thumb:
Haul it here. :wave: :greg:
I've had a Crane TRC-1 Timing Retard Control on my Mustang for years that does exactly what the OP wants, at least in my application.
I wired the activation of the TRC-1 directly to my Nitrous button, which is on my Hurst T-handle (I ditched the WOT micro-switch). Bingo, the engine runs at normal timing for normal driving, but when you hit the Nitrous button it pulls however much timing you have the adjustment knob set for.
My only complaint with the TRC-1 is that the markings around the control knob are somewhat vague on exactly how much timing is being pulled out, so I erred on the safe side.
I've had this thing in my car for probably 10 years or more, so I'm not sure if they even make it anymore.
I just found a listing for the TRC-2, evidently a newer version of what I have:
Crane Cams 6000-6425 - Crane Timing Retard Controls – SummitRacing.com
The markings around the knob of that one are more precise than my TRC-1. That should do what the OP of this thread wants IMO.
*edit* hmm.....the listing says it hooks into Crane's HI-6 series of ignition boxes. While I DO have a HI-6 on my Mustang, I don't remember hooking the TRC-1 up to it. But it's been 10 years or better, my memory could be off.
What is the IAT off of so I can look it up for you?
I show 140* at 667 Ohms and 122* at 973 Ohms. Average says 822 Ohms is 131*.
Here are the specs in the range you are looking at...
158* = 467 Ohms
140* = 667 Ohms
122* = 973 Ohms
BTW, the table looks to be a second order logrithm so there is no set Omh valve per degree F.