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In dallas they hook to the PCM, make sure its the same year or newer pcm/tune, check for functionality, error codes and verify driveability checks. Next, they may put you on the rollers and install a tailpipe sniffer and check emissions. Be sure you have the cats installed for the visibility section of the inspection.
haha. makes me feel better about TN emissions.
they just plug it up, look underneath to see if it "looks like" you have cats, & check the gas cap seal. i was actually talking to the guy about my engine swap this year ;)
Thanks for the info guys. I also sent a email to a guy I know through my job who works at a local shop and does inspections. He said the same thing, that as long as I don't have any check engine light and keep the emissions in place then it shouldn't be a problem. I miss the old days when you payed 12.50 for a basic inspection. I had a 83 Silverado with a gutted cat and nothing else and it passed every year no problem. At least Texas isn't as bad as California.
It took me about 6 months before i actually did swap from the time i started looking into it. And didnt realize how many people actually did accomplished it. In between that time i was looking at NNBS 5.3 trucks. Took me about a month to get everything i needed for swap.
Took me two days to do it successfully and started on first try after priming fuel. went from a 11.5 second to 8.7 seconds in 1/8. then best so far on 100 shot was 12.6 @ 107.66mph 2.02 60ft
Reading this gives me some hope. I'm in the final stages of the engine rebuild and will drop the engine in on the 13th
I have a couple of hook up questions.
I have a cut line that in on the underside of my intake. The one side is hooked up to a breather? on the block but the other side???? The line was cut when I got it.
The other question is a movable hard line attached to the fwd top part of my intake manifold. Any ideas????
Carnell
that first hose looks to be going to one side of the throttle body. really, you don't need it - look up the 'throttle body bypass'
the second is your evap hose. it's $26 from the stealership (which is the only place i could find one not torn up). i'll look up a part # for ya in a bit. it hooks to the same place as your stock v6 evap line did - right beside the fuel send/return lines that you'll have to cut
ok, so i can't find that part # and can't go look at it because it's 180mi away (i'm on TDY), but just tell them it's the flex line that hooks to the evap solenoid
the first picture like zebra stated above isn't neccesscarily needed to connect to throttle body unless ur in real cold climate. i believe its 5/16 heater hose. you'll only need about 3.5' ft. from head to radiator.
second picture... you can just get a piece of 3/8 hose to connect in between metal line to the nylon tube. doesnt hold hardly any pressure
ya just do a tb by-pass, and im doing a swap now and had the same prob so I cut the one part on the evap and the got a hose and connected it.