Tap into the wire coming from the PCM, try that first.
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Tap into the wire coming from the PCM, try that first.
Will do. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
As far as I know its pre-92. My truck(91) didn't have one, but my brothers 93 did. You should have two wires running from the trans. directly to your cluster, lt. grn/blk and a ppl/wht. I got no idea how to hook it up though, I swapped to a 95+ interor long ago, much simpler wiring. I've got a 91 wiring service manual if you need to know what wire runs where.Quote:
Originally Posted by flattopwill
Ya that's what I meant to say - '91 an earlier.
Ya I saw those two wires but I also noticed the wire from the (TBI)ECM labeled "vss input". I have a diagram of the cluster connector that my friend gave me I just don't know which wire needs to be connected the the speedo output from the new ECM. I kinda figured someone had done this already. If not, I guess I'll start connecting wires til it works.
Well its in and running.....sort of.
First few starts it would surge a lot and usually die unless I kept it running. My friend came by on his lunch break and plugged in his diagnostic tool real quick. It showed MAF failed, TCC solenoid failed, and something else I forgot. After a while I guess the computer learned because it would mostly idle on its own but die every once in a while. I was real excited because the cam sounded awesome especially on open long tube headers lol. I started taking video and about 11 secs in it died. It didnt spit and sputter or surge or cough or anything just died like the ignition was cut. Now it wont start at all just crank over. It has fuel pressure at the rail but I cant see spark on the plug wire. My friend from the dealer told me to pull a plug wire off the coil and try to see some spark the old fashioned way but I couldnt get it too. It seems to me that pulling the plug far enough off the coil to see it spark would be too far for the spark to jump? I think this is a minor problem that can be fixed once we plug the diagnostic tool back in later. Here is the vid I was taking when it just died.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_100_1084.jpg
Now, the REALLY BAD NEWS. When I went to put it on the lift I tried to back it up to get it aligned on the lift and it wouldnt move itself. It doesnt go into any gear. When the selector is in any position besides PARK it acts like neutral. Unless, you guys have other ideas, Im guess there is something seriously broken in the trans. I dont know what to do about it yet but Im guessing Ill have to have the whole trans rebuilt. Hopefully its something minor not hooked up right for the shift linkage inside the transmission.
Can anyone help? Ive been awake for about 24 hrs so Im going to bed and then get up about 8ish and go back over there with my buddy who did my wiring/has a diagnostic tool/is a GM tech to see what we can figure out.
BTW, here are some more pics of parts and stuff if anyone is still interested.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1072.jpg
RevMax torque converter
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1074.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1075.jpg
When we were putting in the motor mounts. For a while I really thought they werent gonna fit.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1080.jpg
The slip joint that was added to my drive shaft.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1083.jpg
About 90% in.
No one knows bout the trans?
OK, this is what we figured out.
I dunno what we did to the trans but it atleast moves now.
After plugging in the scan tool it showed the truck to be running(barely) pig RICH. The long term fuel trims are 25% and the short term are 50% I dunno what it is. I think maybe Allen forgot to tune it for flex fuel injectors. I posted a thread in the tuning and diagnostics forum here http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/pcm-t...tml#post363928 where I posted a lot of diagnostic info hopefully someone can make somethin out of it.
Here is the crappy vid I took of the scan tool while it was idling.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_100_1085.jpg
when you added tranny fluid was the truck running? the converter could be empty if you didnt let it to operating temp then top it off.
ya i checked it after it got to operating temp and it looks good. except its leaking out the the main connector
That truck will not run right and without a maf? It's maf tuned, it needs a maf to run, hence the failed maf code.
I didn't forget to tune for anything, even the injectors, the info you supplied is already setup for flex fuel injectors, the Z vin.
Until you get some exhaust on that truck, those o2's are never gonna read correctly and make the truck run like crap. O2's don't work well so close to the open collector.
looks like you're getting closer.
Maf is hooked up. Mufflers hooked up. Still running very rough but it's getting better. It got better after I drove it round the block but still bad. On the adventure around the block it died like 20 times cause it dies every time I let of the gas. Dunno what to do. Maybe the PCM needs to learn? If that's the only thing wrong with it then it's learning very very slow.
Well its definitely getting better. I drove it around the block some more and it seems the more I drive it the better it gets. Ill be suprised if the computer learning is the only problem. It has learned a lot and come a long way but still has a LONG way to go before it has any driveability. I dont have the scanner to look at the fuel trims or O2s anymore but it is definitely still very rich.
Also, I half-ass tried the "Idle Learn Procedure" listed in the Tuning section but my A/C isnt hooked up to the pcm. At least not that I know of. And I dont have a compressor which probably doesnt matter but still.
congrates im glad you got it on the road man, mine should be turning over tomorrow (Monday) i need a new battery an then the Tune. did you stay with a 2.5" exhaust or did you go 3"?
im running a 3" Y into a 3" flex with a bullet/magnaflow combo turned down by the axle. i want it to have a mean sound but at the same time not wake my neighbors like my CC does lol.
i didnt know you got the flex plate/spacer so cheap moat people want 100 just for the flex plate an only god knows for the spacer.
find you a set of used 3:73s an throw in there ;) i wish i was closer i wanna race now
Ya I'm doin 3" y-ed into a single Flowmaster
Well it's no where near ready to race. It barely drives. I still wanna know what the problem is.
timing gear lined dot to dot with the crank gear for the timing chain? if its so far off itd run like poo. uh o2s arent working correctly. uh did you try u plugging MAF to see if thats the problem? are you getting a studder ou of it with a back fire or itll barely throttle up with light back fires?
i understand you saying it wont stay running but by that whats it actually doing? i sure wish you had the scanner to see exactly what its giving you an maybe someone with more knowledge can help.
oh pull a plug an see if they are geting burnt up, an recheck the grounds. sounds dumb but could have a loose wire, pinched wire.
I made sure to line up the timing gear dot to dot and I think if I hadnt it wouldnt even run this well. Its just rich as hell. Not sure whats goin on with the O2s but they are brand new Bosch O2 sensors. We put mufflers on it so the O2s being so close to the end of the header shouldnt be a problem anymore. I first started the truck without the MAF but it didnt seem to make a difference when I put a brand new MAF on.Quote:
Originally Posted by keniff
It doesnt really studder it just doesnt want to start and doesnt want to idle and wont handle a load very well. Also it doesnt want to idle after I rev it. Usually it surges and dies after I rev it. BUT, thats one of the things that got better last night when I was driving it around the block. I know the surging usually points to a vacuum leak but Ive checked for vacuum leaks and doesnt even seem like a vacuum leak type of surge. It does backfire a bit now that mufflers are on it.
Ill take a vid of it tonight to let yall see everything its doing. Also, my friend is bringing his scanner back over so we will be able to see what the sensors see again. I kinda thought with the info I posted on here from the scanner that some of the experts on here could tell me whats going on or atleast tell me what sensor is way off but Ive gotten no help. 93 views of my thread in the tuning section and only one reply.
Ill pull plug and check the ground tonight but I dont have to pull a plug to know that its stupid rich. I can tell by the smell and smoke. My friend Ed who is a service manager at a local GM service center said after hearing of the fuel trims that its the most rich that the computer can compensate for.
Well, looks like we figured it out. The mufflers were put on halfass just to make it work and it looks like one got sealed well but the other didnt. The short term fuel trims now show -3% on bank 1 and 45% on bank 2. And it kinda sounds dumb but if you look and listen closely you can tell one side of the motor is running good and the other is struggling. Permanent exhaust is going on either tomorrow or the next day and then the motor should be good to go.
The trans is a different story. It moves the truck but the computer is showing codes that would only be for a 4l60e and the trans that is in it is a 4l80e. I am awaiting reply from Allen to check which trans tune he put in.
BTW, sorry for my rant earlier. I was just very frustrated.
refresh me on what wiring harness you have. If it is a 60e harness plugged directly into an 80e it will act retarded. Did the harness originally have two speedometer sensor connector for the 80e? If you have the 60e harness you would have to repin the main connector and add an ISS connector or add an 80e conversion adapter and a front input speed sensor connector.
I'll check your tune form and calibration today and let you know, if the trans is setting codes, I would drive it until we figure it out.
I have a 60e harness. My friend Tim repinned the main connector for 4l80e configuration. He said that I only needed one speed sensor? The trans is definitely acting retarded and inconsistent.
Allen, you say you WOULD drive it?? Im not sure it would drive if I wanted to. Tim said that it wouldnt drive right. He said somethin about not having downshift and TC lockup. ??
Oh and I forgot, we got the speedo, tach, cooling fan and SES light hooked up. After taking out the gauge cluster it was still very hard to access the wires for the gauges. For the speedo we just spliced in the old VSS wires (1 purple w/white and 1 green w/black intertwined) with the new VSS wires. For the tach, we just sent the rpm signal from the new ecm to the coil signal wire from my aftermarket Sunpro tach. Ive read that aftermarket tachs have to be set to 4 cylinder mode to correctly recieve the rpm signal from the new ecm but I didnt change anything on my tach and it works fine. For my cooling fan we hooked it up so that I can turn on a switch to turn it on or leave the switch off and let the ecm turn it on at the correct coolant temp. For the SES light we just ran the wire from the new ecm to the SES light wire from the old harness. Since it was hard to get to the wires behind the cluster we just found the right wire (using an ecm connector diagram) on the old ecm connector, cut it off and connected the new SES wire. BTW, the SES wire is pin A10 brown on the A connector for the old ecm. Still have to configure cruise control.
until i can check to see what trans we tuned for, i wouldn't drive it.
do you think that you possibly got the banks backwards on the 02s? When I done my swap I done my own harness but dummy me screwed up and swap the banks on the 02s and it done basically what your saying yours is doing. Does it seem to run fine when you first get it started? Mine would run good till it went into closed loop.
Nah it runs like crap anytime. Im bout 90% sure the exhaust will fix it.
UPDATE! Had the exhaust work done today AND got the correct tune from Nelson. It runs a hundredfold better now! So much better that I actually drove it to work tonight.
Interesting note: it would not start today before or after the exhaust work. Culprit: we had run it so much during the time it had no exhaust and was running rich that it fouled the plugs! I mean these things were some of the worst looking plugs I've seen!
Anyway, I am super excited about it running and driving again but there are still a few kinks to work out. The "kink" that worries me the most is that it feels like it has no first gear. It is really doggy from a launch. But once I get goin 30-40 and give it some gas it really goes. I didn't have any time to really diagnose this becase I had just enough time to get back from the exhaust shop and get ready for work. Also, I'm not sure if this is related or not but I have a few codes that are all transmission related:
tcc solenoid control circuit.....
And
somethin else about tcc....
and
transmission pressure switch manifold fault
I checked the fluid level on the trans and is good. Also, it does not achieve converter lockup (obviously related to the above codes).
The next kink is that it always takes two tries to start it. Turn the key once and it fires then dies quickly. Turn the key again and it starts. I'm worried it's not holding fuel pressure....
And lastly, the trans is leaking from inside the main trans connector....how does that happen and how the hell do I fix it?
It's great that you got to drive it to work though!
Ya man thanks. It is great to be driving it again.
The trans needs some help! I think it only has 2nd and 3rd forward gears. No 1st, 4th, or lockup. I was thinking that a shift solenoid could be stuck. If shift solenoid A was stuck then I would have 2nd and 3rd but no 1st or 4th. But then I looked at the range reference again and it says shift solenoid A has to be on to have reverse, which I do.
I took it to a transmission shop to have them look at it. They were scared to touch it since its a conversion/swap and dont really know what it is. Something funny there scanner showed was that the TPS was giving an angle (%) but no volt reading. Idling or revving the volt reading stayed at (0.00). The gear selector reading showed 4th at all times which is I guess from the tune? The codes it gave were TCC solenoid PWM and Trans Pressure Switch Manifold fault although the guy said the pressure switch showed to be working.
If anyone has any tips on this please help. I am going to drop the pan tomorrow and replace all the solenoids, switches, etc. Hopefully that fixes it.
just please dont set it on fire ;)
glad your up an running, im itching to crank mine over even if the security bs stops it from running LOL. im ready to throw my old spares on an burn all the rubber off of them lol
Ya, mine wont even spin a tire with no first gear.......
I told my friend to recheck all his wiring today. He said he realized he misplaced the brake switch wire. That explains why I don't have tcc lockup but does it necessarily explain the tcc code it's giving?
We plugged in a Tech 2 scanner today and logged my truck driving down the road. It showed the computer giving the right commands but the trans just isn't receiving them correctly for some reason. I still wonder if it could be a shift solenoid. I was sure it was shift solenoid A but then after I looked at the range reference again I noticed that to have reverse shift solenoid A has to be functioning. I have reverse no problem so I don't know what's the reason for not having 1st or 4th. If I have a tcc pwm code will it disable 4th gear also?
Please help?
I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to my rail today in an attempt to diagnose my starting problem. The fuel pressure does not bleed off quickly and the truck will start and die all while the pressure is still high. If the truck is cold it does not have any problem. If I give it a little throttle when I start it it does not have a problem.
Red? C3? Have a I run out of help me credits?
man i sure wish i knew wth your talking about but i dont.
The PCM is smart, if it doesn't see the whole circuit for the TCC it throws up a generic code.
LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by keniff
Well, hopefully matching the brake switch wire with the right PCM wire will fix it but I don't know if it could fix no first gear...Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
Any ideas on my starting issue?
Sometimes codes are related. Get the major things fixed first and sometimes the minor things clear up.
You are right. I will get the brake switch wiring fixed first thing in the morning(which is 7am when I get off work lol) and see what that does. Thanks
So when I left work this morning it gave me all four gears...WTF?...for about 2 miles then it went back to just 2nd and 3rd. When its cold it gives all four gears but when its warmed up it only has 2nd and 3rd. Any ideas?
it cant handle the heat ;p jfwy uh maybe something to do with the valve body. like when the fluid thins out it cant push the balls around the valve body so you lose pressure an it shuts down the weak gears. I DONT KNOW IM JUST GUESSING
could be a loose wire making contact when cold and not when hot.
could be a solenoid not liking the heat.
and like mentioned above, the fluid is thicker when cold, maybe thick enough to make the vb work.
at least you know it will work, so the wiring and pcm are ok.
So where should I start? Solenoids?
pull the pan an check the wiring harness that runs through there. if you dont see broken/shorted wires then the wiring should be good. uh maybe the seperator plate is worn out (if the 80e has that) uh if all the wiring looks good pull the valve body an see if you can see something plugged/blocked/broken