Here is a picture of the two sonnax pieces together. In this picture I have added a trans go washer (gold) but it is not required. Make sure your assembly looks like this. Vince B
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_3619.jpg
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Here is a picture of the two sonnax pieces together. In this picture I have added a trans go washer (gold) but it is not required. Make sure your assembly looks like this. Vince B
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_3619.jpg
Thats what it looked like...i'm getting ready to attempt it again
I'm working on the servos again and i can get the it in and when i put pressure on it i can get it in far enough to get the spring clip in but then i wont have the pin travel i need. With this said obvioulsly need to grind the pin so I take it if I take .125 of I'll have the clearance I need...right?
sounds about right if you have zero travel with it as-is.
Sweet...back at it then!
Must be when I first tried the spring must have fallen off before i got it in...took off about .125 off the pin length and it went together! Raining out now so i'll wait till the morning and go try it out
good luck dude, hope it works out
I would NEVER grind or otherwise modify the pin length on a trans that worked properly before servo PISTON replacement. That makes no sense. It does mean something was not assembled correctly.
The pin in the kit is longer than the stock pin to make up for worn bands...it tells u that you might have to alter pin length to get the travel you need
Then reuse the original pin. If the band is worn it needs replaced. The friction material on the band is 1/16" or so thick so when it's toast, it's toast.
That certainly seems to make more sense as to why the new pin was too long. Just say screw it and go for the 80e :woot:
Trucks brand new...just over 11k miles on it
I'm sure I'll do the 4l80e when I grenade this one
mines basically new too, and Im already havin probs with it. I wish I had 5k to dispose of right now
Put some miles on the truck today and really like the way the truck goes with the converter and the servos! Only one thing I noticed that I didn't like is that I was stuck behind a couple cars and was cruising in od at around 50(about 1300rpms) and the tach was fluctuating from 1300-1500 but I couldn't feel anything funny in the way it was driving!? Anyone else have this happen?
was the converter locked? On some tunes its not locked until about 55 mph.
I know it was still in od but i dont think it was locked but not sure
Keep one thing in mind, replacement servos might not necessarily have the same dimensions as the OE servos. With that being said the band clearance should always be checked and or adjusted. Back in the day when I built stock units, we would still adjust the band. Even in this case remember that bands not only wear but stretch to a degree. Thus the reason why I feel when doing this type of mod or repair it needs to be addressed.
I'm going to guess that it was cycling out of lock up. With the new converter you might need tune for it. Vince B
Stretched, worn, whatever still needs replaced. A novice messing with apply pin length is no solution.
I have just shy of .125 travel...thats what they recomended(used a dial indicator)
Any got any input on the servo from a TBSS? I know they are firmer than stock but not quite as hard as a vette
Servos have nothing to do with shift firmness. I am really trying to make this known but doing a bad job.
are you sure Nathan. I just had my trans rebuilt to Wiley heavy duty specs and it has the superior 2nd servo and it shift way harder than the vette servo that was in it before. It still has the same tune in it...
Give it a while and see if it softens ASSuming you have a stock tune. :tvhaha:
Well you hear a million things about what 'this' is supposed to do, and what 'that' will do. I know a servo upgrade gives you more clamping force, which I always thought translated into a firmer shift. I guess Im wrong
I'm not sure but I think the whole idea is to have more apply force to hold the band from slipping. I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time. :lol:
yeah thats what I always thought
I found a guy who sells assembled corvette servos that you supposedly drop in for 50 bucks is that to much? :chevy:
Robert
Yes when you can get the corvette part for 15 bucks and do it yourself.
I am thinking about doing this servo swap but am a little hesitant because of the potential problems. My truck has 109K on the clock and afraid that this swap will cause some serious damage. What do yall think?
99 silverado, 4WD, Reg cab, SWB, 5.3, 4 wheel disc, magnaflow, K&N, hypertech PP3
put the Corvette servos in. These billets will probably kill a trans with that many miles on it. The Corvette servos can be purchased for under $30 most any place and will work just fine on a stock setup. If you later have a trans built for performance, then have the billets put in or just stick with the Corvette servos.
Cool man. Im going to be doing the throttle body bypass and corvette servos on thurs. Thanks.
99 silverado, 4WD, Reg cab, SWB, 5.3, 4 wheel disc, magnaflow, K&N, hypertech PP3
the servo is a great upgrade but I wouldn't worry about the bypass. the perofrmance gain isn't enough to be worth the cold start problems.
+1
well I live in Texas so cold starts wont be a problem. plus i figure with all the 5/16 hardline i have at hand, why not? I mean I dont have the money for an aftermarket throttle body. Serving the public just doesnt pay....
With this Corvette servo, should I get the kit with the longer pin/shaft or should the stock pin/shaft work? Reason I ask is because I found a kit with the servo and o-rings for $15. The complete kit I found was about $45.
99 silverado, 4WD, Reg cab, SWB, 5.3, 4 wheel disc, magnaflow, K&N, hypertech PP3
with the corvette servo there is no reason to replace the pin. :twocents:
Corvette servo, best $30 I ever spent. Thanks for the help guys.
99 silverado, 4WD, Reg cab, SWB, 5.3, 4 wheel disc, magnaflow, K&N CAI, hypertech PP3, corvette servo.
Spam^^^^