thanks again for the comp. It doesnt take much to get a chevy to look good IMO. Go ahead and lower your ride man! it will defintley suprise people on the street when you holeshot them in 4 hi! Should handle better around corners too.
Printable View
thanks again for the comp. It doesnt take much to get a chevy to look good IMO. Go ahead and lower your ride man! it will defintley suprise people on the street when you holeshot them in 4 hi! Should handle better around corners too.
After yet more adjusting of the torsion bars... it's sitting at 35.5" to the top of the wheelwell on all four corners.
Getting rid of the 2" block in the rear got rid of a lot of the wheelhop. Instead of banging off the rev limiter until it skips along fast enough to not be able to wind up the springs it hooks up a lot quicker. First 6-8' it lays rubber, wheelhops for 6-10', then goes. Beats the hell out of 60-80' of wheelhop. Weight transfer is a TON better also.
I think it looks a lot better also. At first I was a bit worried about lowering an already LOW truck.
I got a new takeoff set of Z71 Bilsteins off eBay, that made a heck of a handling improvement. Can probably still corner the wheeling rig on 44" TSLs and slinky suspension faster though.
This is about as far as offroading goes for this truck. 144" of wheelbase, a driveshaft designed to dent, car tires, ground clearance of a CRV, and a fscked up ackerman angle dictate its limited wheeling capability. I don't think it looks too bad for a 99 that has seen 165,000 miles of Michigan winters and a previous owner that drove like a quadriplegic on meth. I call it my grandpa grocery getter.
http://silverado.wrath.com/wheeling/...082706/6_S.jpg
http://silverado.wrath.com/wheeling/...082706/8_S.jpg
video going up a hill that usually causes carbs to flood out. pulled a lot of open diffed hoodlums out of here. once a tire spins you're fubared. the gayass flowmaster and my cheap camera don't get along so turn your volume down.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wrath @ Aug 21 2006, 10:46 AM) [snapback]61836[/snapback]</div>o contrare my friend z60 suspension kills ur Z71's suspension, its made for handling not off roading. plus ull need an LQ9 not an LQ4(although not a huge difference). do ur thing i agree with a lot of what ur saying, but in no way could u say ur stock Z has ANY better parts than an SS. if ur talkin off roading fine, but overall id say ud have to do aftermarket adjustments to compete sorry to u Z71 guys :sad:Quote:
Don't need a Honda, the only thing ever made that was unibody that I liked were the F-bodies and the Y-bodies. Those Honda pickups wrinkle the rear pillar if you run them up a RTI ramp. It's worse than Ford's 05up F150's flopping boxsides when the tailgate is down.
I always thought the great part of the SS was the fact it came with a rear swaybar and it got a 6.0L in a 1/2 ton. You could get 4.10 cogs in a half ton. From what I understand (which is quite possibly wrong), the SS shocks aren't even as good as the 46mm Bilsteins on the Z71s.
So, if I get rid of the rear block (likely just going to replace it with a 1" block), throw a beefier front swaybar and a rear swaybar on it and swap in a LQ4 I'll have me a lifted SS. haha. I'll take my crappy 246 transfer case over the AWD (149 is it now?) transfer case. It's not like you really need AWD below 450hp.
I like the look of Tim Z's truck. It's clean and proportional.
[/b]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Allstar55566 @ Aug 27 2006, 11:46 PM) [snapback]62672[/snapback]</div>The Z60 shocks (going by my neighbor's Silverado SS) have less dampening and are smaller in diameter.Quote:
o contrare my friend z60 suspension kills ur Z71's suspension, its made for handling not off roading. plus ull need an LQ9 not an LQ4(although not a huge difference). do ur thing i agree with a lot of what ur saying, but in no way could u say ur stock Z has ANY better parts than an SS. if ur talkin off roading fine, but overall id say ud have to do aftermarket adjustments to compete sorry to u Z71 guys :sad:
[/b]
The heads and the pistons appear to be the only differences on LQ4 and late model LQ9. Is there that much of a difference?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wrath @ Aug 28 2006, 07:08 AM) [snapback]62691[/snapback]</div>again they r not off roading shocks, they r made for handling, and as u stated ur not plannin on seeing dirt so the ss shocks would be better for that application, the heads r the same from what i know, and the pistons and rods r different. the lq4 has dished pistons lowering compression and also the lq9 has stronger rods i believe.Quote:
The Z60 shocks (going by my neighbor's Silverado SS) have less dampening and are smaller in diameter.
The heads and the pistons appear to be the only differences on LQ4 and late model LQ9. Is there that much of a difference?
[/b]
I believe someone stated that the LQ9 uses a bushed, full floating rod versus the pressed in rod of yesteryear. Full floaters are always a plus in my books, unless you're fishing.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wrath @ Aug 18 2006, 08:58 AM) [snapback]61572[/snapback]</div>Check out this link.Quote:
My 99 ECSB Z71 is pretty low (compared to newer Z71s) even with 265x75r16 rubber. However, I've got the classic 2" lift block and two leafs/overload rear setup. Between the long leaf springs, lack of leafs, and the block I get a lot of wrap. And the rear is 1 3/8" higher than the front.
So, the plan is to remove the block and crank down the torsion bars. But, how much cranking can I get out of those torsion bars? Currently, the adjusters are threaded in about 2/3.
The GM part number for factory U-bolts on a 2wd 1/2 ton appear to be #15002781. Anybody happen to know the dimensions? I live in BFE.
Next, will factory length 4x4 shocks be short enough to deal with the 1.25" shorter overall shock length? It looks like it but I don't want to bottom out and tear off the girly bracket on the chassis.
I don't want to go too low as we see around 300" of snow each year here and the 12' of wheelbase already makes it a bit of a chore. I'm mostly out to level it and get a little better ride quality/stance with pipedreams of better fuel economy. It'd be nice to close the gaps in the wheelwells also since there is such limited wheel travel on these trucks but I'm not too worried about that. I have bags to keep it off the bumpstops when towing.
The truck tows a slightly modified version of this on a 20' car hauler periodically so putting it on the ground is not an option:
http://fugly.wrath.com/wheeling/05-0...HPIM0936_S.jpg
[/b]
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/...modified_truck/
I did this to my truck I lowered it by taking out the 2" blocks and lowering the torsion keys by about 8 turns
AAAAA+++++
I put GMC 2500 Shocks on it but becareful the shock part numbers in the article are not correct for the front. The Sway bar was the best money I have spent on my truck. They are GREAT.