Miller TIG welder decision

Here's some info that I've learned from TIG welding.

Sharper Electrodes
Easy arc starting
Handle less amperage
Wider arc shape
Good arc stability
Less weld penetration
Shorter electrode life


Blunter Electrodes
Usually harder to start the arc
Handle more amperage
Narrower arc shape
Potential for more arc wander
Better weld penetration
Longer electrode life

Allen, Here are the electrodes you will need depending on the material you're welding.

Oxides used are primarily zirconium, thorium, lanthanum or cerium. Additions are usually 1% - 4%. These oxides greatly improve arc initiation, especially when direct current (DC) welding is employed. Thorium oxide (thoria) has been used for many years, having been found effective in terms of long life and thermal efficiency. Zirconium oxide (zirconia) has been commonly used for alternating (AC) TIG welding, normally for welding aluminum.

Here are the color codes if you need them:
RED
2% Thoriated: Best stability at medium currents, good arc starts, medium tendency to spit, medium erosion rate

GOLD
1.5% Lanthanated: Lowest erosion rate, wide current range, no spitting, best DC arc starts and stability

GRAY
2% Ceriated: Low erosion rate, wide current range, AC or DC, no spitting, consistent arc starts, good stability

WHITE
.8% Zirconiated: Balls well, handles higher current with less spitting, better arc starts and arc stability than pure tungsten

GREEN
Pure: Balls easily, low cost, tends to spit at higher currents, used for non-critical welds only

Air gas material chart

Hope this helps Allen.

Let me know if you need any gas lens kits for your torch and I'll send you some. Just let me know what size you need. I've got plenty of new torch parts, insulators etc....

Ive got a lincoln TIG and im extremely happy with it. I learned to weld with it and havent used anything else. Ive done all the welding on my truck with it, and if you have seen pics there is ALOT of welding involved. Its awesome...hell I can turn it down so low that I succesfully sectioned and welded my transmission dipstick (not just the tube the actual dipstick) back together. There are virtually no sparks when you are TIG welding clean metals.
If your planning on doing alot of awkward welding such as laying on your back and welding an exhaust system under a car I would recomend the hand control option. It can get frustraiting with the foot pedal.

I would also recomend getting an auto dimming helmet (make sure its a good one thats rated for TIG welding). Your have to hold the torch in one hand and the filler rod in the other so a flip down helmet can be a PITA. Its also a pain because you cant hold two pieces together to weld them together.

When you are welding make sure you keep your tungsten nice and clean and sharp as it makes things alot easier.

Im no expert but those are some of the things that would have helped me out when I first got started.

Quote:

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Originally posted by MikeGyver@Dec 27 2005, 03:12 PM
Hope this helps, Mike.
P.S. How's that for a first post?

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Hi Mike, I just got my SD Miller Welder and contractor package, thanks for the advice.
I picked up a huge bottle today with argon and co2, I'll try to start welding this week.
I'll probably get a lot smaller bottle for aluminum welding, pure argon right?
I also got me some rods to weld with, I told the guy I was just practicing on 18g steel, he gave me two different sizes, can't remember, but they are small.


Also, thanks again for the video, I'll try to watch it this week and get familiar with everything.


thanks,

allen

Stainless is nice to weld and make parts out if, too, but again you need a different shielding gas.

You're welcome for the video, Allen, I'm glad it'll be put to use. Mr. Tig has a decent web site, http://www.tigdepot.com , has some good products, advise, and an "ask Mr. Tig" column. Another good one, especially for the advanced welder, is the AWS website. This will get you started: http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?id=7351 .