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I can't speak from experience on ICT products, but I ordered standard plates to use with my clamshell mounts. When it was said and done and had the trans mounted, the crossmember holes were 1" away from the mount on the trans. If the engine had come rearward 1", it would have worked like a charm. Had I ordered 1" setback plates, I would not have had any issues.
When you guys rework your wiring harness, do you cut out the wires you are not using or do you keep them for future use?
It depends what it is really. For example, I kept all of my rear O2 wiring in case I have to go back to an emission friendly setup. I also retained all of my A/C wiring even though I don't have a single component currently installed. I still plan on installing the A/C back on the vehicle after I've finished my swap and have had a chance to recoup some of the funds I took to get the swap finished. It's easier to just tie the wiring/connectors out of way for future use, than it is to cut your harness to pieces.Quote:
Originally Posted by gmech68
That makes a lot of sense on keeping the wiring for rear o2 sensors. I'm in Michigan and as of now we don't have any emission test yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blasphemy
I started reworking my 99 factory harness the other night. Do I have to use the gen4 sensors or can I reuse my obs temp, pressure and volt if I install the original sensors and alternator connected to the 99 ECM? Also what about the trans park neutral wiring. Does that need to communicate with the gen4 ECM/tcm? And........ One more question, the starter. 99 or 09 ECM? I guess that will do it for now. I know, damn Cherry boys! (first timers)
You may want to look into using an E67 ECM with a Trailblazer OS on it. The Trailblazers use the older style class 2 data and this wasn't changed when they started putting in the gen IV engines into them. I haven't actually done this myself, so I am speculating with what I've learned. But if you can get a 4L80E OS that will also work with the E67 operating system, I would think that you would be ok to run the newer engine, without needing the conversion box. You might even be able to get away with only using the E67 to control everything on the truck, but I'm not finding much out about that.
That would make things a lot easier and cheaper. I see where the guy with the s10/ly6/t56 did this. But I could not find ant definitive info.
Anybody have a answer for this?Quote:
Originally Posted by gmech68
We'll back in mid June I finally got my truck up and running. The hardest part was finding wiring diagrams for the individual componants. I got a lot of help over on 67-72 chevy trucks website. Then finding out that my local library had Chiltons online. Finding this earlier would have saved me from a lot of headaches.
Just wanted to thank everyone here for all the help. I hope to be able to help others just the same.