Finally got the 255 installed in the new tank today. Had to make a few minor adjustments so the sending unit wouldnt slide around on the top of the tank.
heres some pics includin redneck way to get ur old gas out of old tank lol
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Finally got the 255 installed in the new tank today. Had to make a few minor adjustments so the sending unit wouldnt slide around on the top of the tank.
heres some pics includin redneck way to get ur old gas out of old tank lol
Powder Coated Dirty Dingo motor mounts have been ordered! Still trying to decide whether or not I want to tackle mating 2 harnesses together or just getting one from nelson...
You dont have to really mate the two harnesses. Strip the original harness down to the bare bones needed plugs like oil pressure sending unit, starter wire, fuel pump, positive leads, grounds etc. Remove the remaining unneeded wires from the original fuel injection system, maf, etc etc. Swap over the sending units from the original motor to the 6.0 and then you can just plug in the trucks original harness connectors to the sending units and have all your gauges and stuff working. add some positive power to the 6.0 along with grounds and you should be off and running. I havent tried tackling anything 4x4 yet so Im not sure what you will need there but I would assume you would need to salvage the original wiring from the original harness.Quote:
Originally Posted by HPICamaroSS
I let my 95 computer control the 4x4 stuff
Have a few more questions i have run upon...ive been cleaning my motor the past 2 days and id like to get rid of the air pump and a/c. (ac is bottom left pulley and air pump is top right pulley) what are my options? Also, my block is a '05 that has 4 broken manifold bolts (very common)...whats the trick to getting the ones out that have no bolting showing....i cant grab it with vice grips or anything ;-(. its soakin in pb blaster right now
If you have access to a welder you can take a nut and weld it to the stud by filling from the inside of the nut to the stud. EZ-outs sometimes will get the stud out but not always.
good idea since welding wont stick to the alum heads. i dont have a welder home, but i have one at work. thx
Heres more updates...just been cleanin up the motor mainly, getting it ready for paint. Also been trying to get the broken bolt out of the head for the manifold...(i dont have a welder). might have to load it back up into the truck and take it to my shop.
As far as items I still need to buy:
Pacesetter Longtubes #70-2265
transmission 4l80e
computer
thinking about: this cam setup http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-54-426-11/
and a 3000 stall converter if i can find any good deals. been trying to find a used cam with springs and roller rockers, but no good finds yet
Got my tranny today. 4l80e with torque converter and inspection plate. its sitting next to my old 4l60e (on the left). It shows you how much more beefier it is. The only thing im concerned about is the connectors. Theres connectors on the tranny by the shift linkage, but on my harness I dont see the same connectors? Also the tranny mount is alot different, its hanging way off to the side, do i just unbolt that and use the old tranny mount thats mounted on my transfercase?
Worked alot on the truck over the weekend, bought a QTP lift plate off Amazon for $54, and it worked awesome. Kept the motor nice and centered when installing. As for the dirty dingo motor mounts, i had a heck of a time getting them lined up. The drivers side lined up perfect for me right on the first try. but the passenger side was about a half inch off! After a good 3 hours of banging with a 3lb mallet, i finally took a pry bar and a ratchet strap strapped to the bar and to the frame, i sucked the motor mount towards the engine. It did work, but it was ALOT of work. I was hoping it was an easy set in like everyone else has been saying. They really are nice mounts, just not sure why it was so far off. Other than that, im goin to keep going at it. Need to find out what Im doing for my transfer case now....