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a shroud will be necessary. I used the LS1 fans and it stayed cooled as long as I didn't have air trapped in the top of the engine. The low oil pressure at idle, I've faced that in both engines. This last tear-down showed worn main shaft bearings.
What is considered low oil pressure in the LS engines? Mine also is around 25 psi at idle (600 rpm) but ramps up in a linear fashion when I mash the go pedal. I see this as normal. In the Gen 1 days, 10 psi per 1000 rpm was considered sufficient.
As to cooling, I won't be much help since my swap cools extremely well (for now). No shroud (I know, I know) and using mechanical fan, my temps never exceed 198 (stock t-stat) in traffic in Las Vegas, in August (110 degrees plus). I haven't run the air yet though and have not installed the condensor. Once I do, I expect an increase in temp but I have been impressed by how well this engine cools compared to my Gen 1 and Gen 2 engines.
WOW!!! This has been like reading a good book! There has been love, hate, setbacks, pickmeups, beer, and even a sticky love scene with some girl named Avatar. Add it ends up with new life in an old truck and a new baby on the way. What a story. I will be using this one often for all the tech advice on my swap. Thanks to all.
THis could end up being the script for a book similar to that book "The Zen of Motorcycle repair(?)" Never thought of that until you just said it....... :doh: :lol:
Writing my memoire as we speak... :duh:
Thx, guys! I kinda figured a shroud would be better. I've been to Vegas several time, and have lived in Austin, TX (1999). Both have similar environments, but it seems the humidity has a distinct effect in my equation (despite decrease in % as the sun comes up). I dunno.
I have been looking around the hood, and wondering how the heck can heat escape the engine compartment if at the back of the dang hood a rubber seal seals off the vent screen b/t the hood an area below the windshield. Could this be why the engine compartment gets so darn hot? I've gone through this a few times in my head this morning (while driving the daylights outta the truck).
Lesson #1:
Hot air is less dense than cool air. End result, heat rises. Heat resistant (or fire resistant) material tacted underneath hood minimizes heat exchange, thus preventing the hood from getting too hot to touch.
Question #1:
How can hot air dissipate, or escape from the engine compartment if compartment is sealed?
Lesson #2:
Cowl hoods designed to allow flow of hotter air from engine area through passage that vents in front of the lower, center section of the windshield. Dazzled with brilliance, or baffled with :bs: ?!?! Found that different types of hoods have different functions.
Question #2:
How can I get the engine compartment cooler WITHOUT buying a cowl hood?
One test I'd like to prove/disprove is that by removing this hood seal, hot air can theoretically escape at the base of the windshield. (pics of truck in a dirty state... I know... my excuse is it's raining here)
Index finger pointing at seal, and middle finger pointing at a vent
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ilation001.jpg
No huge gaps for air to escape
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ilation002.jpg
Seal on my '02 Yukon
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ilation003.jpg
Are those possible vent holes? :duh: Probably not...
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ilation004.jpg
...BUT, there's a good bit of gap b/t hood, quarter panel, & firewall for possible ventilation.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ilation005.jpg
Anyone care to shed some light on this? I just want a cooler running truck. It's fine at higher speeds, and up to mid 60s weather, but @ idle in traffic & with air temps above 70, IT SUCKS! Mind you, I do not have working AC setup yet, but condensor is in place (possible airflow restriction?).
You could do one of the bolt on/glass on cowl induction scoops and cut out the hood where the scoop is to get the hot air out or even add a small electric fan to the hood to help draw the hot air out once the hole is cut. :duh:
CUT?!?!?!?! :nono: Homie don't play dat! :laugh:
** Addendum ** Me want to KEEP the STOCK look. There's got to be a better way to achieve what I'm looking for. Gotta go find a shroud, and see what directing the airflow would really do. Thanks for the suggestion, tho (RHB). :thumb:
I have the same problem with heat. Under hood temps have got to be over 300 degrees in my truck(when there's an engine under it). The engine compartment just doesn't have any place to release the hot air. My old truck didn't have fender wells so it stayed nice and cool under there, though it got really dirty on rainy days.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Sep 24 2006, 02:33 PM) [snapback]66316[/snapback]</div>I think you just gave me an idea... :duh: I'll be thinking about something on my way home this evening. :hshake:Quote:
I have the same problem with heat. Under hood temps have got to be over 300 degrees in my truck(when there's an engine under it). The engine compartment just doesn't have any place to release the hot air. My old truck didn't have fender wells so it stayed nice and cool under there, though it got really dirty on rainy days.
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Did I tell you guys that the stock 4L60E bit the bullit? :cry: Yep, the 3-4 clutch packs are gone, plus something in the drivetrain still vibrates @ 90mph. Trans is coming down tonight, and hitting a local shop tomorrow morning. Hopefully, I won't get shafted to badly with the cost. :sad: