let me know when you up for getting some... i may be able to hook you a deal when your ready
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let me know when you up for getting some... i may be able to hook you a deal when your ready
for the coil packs or the wires?
wires.... coil packs are hard to find
Ideas about exhaust.
Im doing TXspeeds' Pacesetter LT's and ORY, then going get some piping welded on to a single muffler 3" in/out and a turndown. Anyone got any ideas on what would sound good? Magnaflow, hooker, flowdisaster...?
Also, does anyone know where I can pick up a fairly new engine temp sensor for cheap, without having to go to the dealer to get raped?
thanks,
david
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(duckysbht @ Jan 24 2007, 08:58 AM) [snapback]81020[/snapback]</div>The following is from Rockauto.com Give the link a few seconds to load and it will open up the correct directory and display the parts.....Quote:
Also, does anyone know where I can pick up a fairly new engine temp sensor for cheap, without having to go to the dealer to get raped?
thanks,
david [/b]
2001 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 5.3L 323cid V8 FI (T) : Cooling System : Coolant Temperature Sensor
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TX89 $9.52
ACDELCO SENSOR,ENG COOL TEMP 2-WAY MALE ACDELCO Part # 213953 $16.95
AIRTEX Part # 5S1475 $17.43
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(duckysbht @ Jan 24 2007, 10:58 AM) [snapback]81020[/snapback]</div>I just put a magnaflow catback on my wifes ford( :thumbdown: ) truck. the tone of the magnaflow is nice, but i was dissapointed on how quiet it was. At idle its not much louder than stock exhaust.Quote:
Ideas about exhaust.
Im doing TXspeeds' Pacesetter LT's and ORY, then going get some piping welded on to a single muffler 3" in/out and a turndown. Anyone got any ideas on what would sound good? Magnaflow, hooker, flowdisaster...?
Also, does anyone know where I can pick up a fairly new engine temp sensor for cheap, without having to go to the dealer to get raped?
thanks,
david
[/b]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(duckysbht @ Jan 24 2007, 10:58 AM) [snapback]81020[/snapback]</div>I'll give you the one from my LS1. It has 5300 miles and it is just sitting in the tool box.Quote:
Ideas about exhaust.
Im doing TXspeeds' Pacesetter LT's and ORY, then going get some piping welded on to a single muffler 3" in/out and a turndown. Anyone got any ideas on what would sound good? Magnaflow, hooker, flowdisaster...?
Also, does anyone know where I can pick up a fairly new engine temp sensor for cheap, without having to go to the dealer to get raped?
thanks,
david
[/b]
I would agree with Mr. P, and just do rod bolts. Spin that biatch up to 6,700 rpm.
When is all of this going down? I love to tear shit up...I just hate cleaning up or putting back together!!
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GMCwantsLS1 @ Jan 24 2007, 07:10 PM) [snapback]81091[/snapback]</div>I just might take you up on that.Quote:
I'll give you the one from my LS1. It has 5300 miles and it is just sitting in the tool box.
[/b]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SCIV @ Jan 24 2007, 08:03 PM) [snapback]81101[/snapback]</div>This should be going down a little bit after the time I get out of school which is like the first of may. It might be a little later if I dont have all the stuff I want to go in right away.Quote:
I would agree with Mr. P, and just do rod bolts. Spin that biatch up to 6,700 rpm.
When is all of this going down? I love to tear shit up...I just hate cleaning up or putting back together!!
[/b]
Don't spin to 6700 with stock push rods. Get some hardened ones first or face the wrath of the GM L-shaped push rod.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Jan 24 2007, 10:18 PM) [snapback]81121[/snapback]</div>Yeah that would be pretty harsh on the rods to spin it that high. I had planned on replacing the whole she-bang when the cam goes in.Quote:
Don't spin to 6700 with stock push rods. Get some hardened ones first or face the wrath of the GM L-shaped push rod.
[/b]
couple more questions...
I have the engine sitting underneath the carport here at my house. Its sealed in a big thick plastic bag and has a blanket laying on top of the plastic. Should I think about maybe spinning the rotating assembly a couple times? Would I have any issues with stuff being "froze" up?
pull the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders, then rotate the engine around a couple times and put the plugs back in. I'd rotate the engine around a couple times at least every two weeks. Humidity is a bitch on cylinder walls. If you're not going to be running the engine for a while you can pull the rockers loose and the cylinders will all be air tight and then they'll be secure from humidity/condensation.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Feb 2 2007, 11:09 PM) [snapback]82056[/snapback]</div>My buddy has a 98 with the vortec 350. He bought a used engine from a salvage yard with 32000 miles on engine. He burns about 2 quarts of oil every two weeks. I am sure the engine sat on the shelf awhile. Do you think that possibly the cylinder walls are tore up from sitting, thus causing this?Quote:
pull the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders, then rotate the engine around a couple times and put the plugs back in. I'd rotate the engine around a couple times at least every two weeks. Humidity is a bitch on cylinder walls. If you're not going to be running the engine for a while you can pull the rockers loose and the cylinders will all be air tight and then they'll be secure from humidity/condensation.
[/b]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Feb 2 2007, 11:09 PM) [snapback]82056[/snapback]</div>Any other suggestions? Should I just use some normal 10w30 to squirt in there? How much should I put in? Should I put the oil pan back on the bottom? I dont know if the pan will fit with it being on the wooden stand.Quote:
pull the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders, then rotate the engine around a couple times and put the plugs back in. I'd rotate the engine around a couple times at least every two weeks. Humidity is a bitch on cylinder walls. If you're not going to be running the engine for a while you can pull the rockers loose and the cylinders will all be air tight and then they'll be secure from humidity/condensation.
[/b]
Get an oiling can and put a couple squirts in there. Shouldn't need more than that. Yes, put the oil pan on there to keep dust and dirt from getting in it. Dirt sticks to oil like glue. Large daily temp swings like we have here in TX causes numerous condensation issues. Make sure you didn't get a lot of dust or dirt in the engine during transport since it didn't have the pan on it. If you see dirt, get a syphon type sprayer for your air compressor and wash the inside of the block out with something such as kerosene. You don't want dirt running through the oil pump. If it's still clean, put the pan on it to seal it up otherwise mice, wasps and other unwanted things may try to setup home in there.
Yeah, high oil consumption on a salvage engine with low miles may point to pitted cylinders or a dishonest salvage dealer. They may have cleaned the engine after pulling it and water set in the cylinders all the time it was on the shelf.
Well i just noticed that we have no oil pan bolts, or spark plugs in the engine.
I also noticed that when I pulled the plastic off, the plastic encompassed the entire engine. As in, even though the oil pan was off, the BIG plastic I had sealed it up. Would I still need to worry about putting the oil pan on? Reason I ask is because I have to find bolts for the oil pan, and to mount up to the engine stand. Not saying it's going to be hard, but since the plastic covers the entire engine, Im just curious if I should bother with the oil pan?
You should be fine, just oil up the cylinders good. SDPC2000.com has the most honest prices for bolts if you have to buy some.
Yeah i squirted royal purple in the sparkplug holes, the intake holes on the valves, and inside where the exhaust holes bolt up, and then rotated it few times. The intake manifold for the truck is sitting in my room because its brand new and yeah I dont feel like putting it on. Once I get the engine in the truck Ill probably flush it pretty good.
back up to the top... got some more questions.
- when I get ready to swap, do I need to drain ALL fluids out? (coolant, engine oil, tranny fluid)?
- Is it hard to reach the bolts to unbolt the back of the engine from the tranny?
- The intake manifold is already off of the engine, should I put the manifold on before setting the engine in?
- I need to purchase gaskets for the oil pan and the intake manifold. Should I just go to the dealer to get some? Also, what is the best way to bolt the pan and intake manifold down? Like how should I tighten down the bolts? (and how tight should they be)?
I guess that's all for now. Ill have more later :thumb:
Orielly's carries them, also. I normally order mine through Scoggins/Dickey if I have plenty of lead time, takes one or two days to get to me when they have everything in stock.
Drain all the fluids just to save cleaning up a mess later.
Install the intake after the engine is in the truck. Keep the top of the engine covered to keep debris out.
The oil pan has to be positioned correctly. The rear of the pan has to be flush with the back of the block. I use an old bell housing to align them, bolt the bell housing on then tighten the bolts on the pan. Pan bolts are 18 or 22 foot lbs depending which manual you read. I always go 22.
Should I tighten them from inside to out? Or which way?
In any order, I believe. I can look tonight for sure. The long bolts in the flywheel end of the pan are torqued to like 108 in/lbs. Long skinny bolts can't take too much force.
TTT...
looking at getting a B&M super cooler soon before the 5.3 swap. pretty sure this is the right one. http://www.autoanything.com/coolers/65A3046A0A0.aspx
I did some research on here and was still confused as to how/where you actually tap into the transmission lines to make this thing cool. Where abouts can I get the fittings/lines for this cooler? NAPA? Autozone?
How hard is this thing to get installed? Seeing as how my truck is as low as dirt, I need to know if it will be easier to access all the lines to tap into from the bottom or top.
thanks,
david
I have a transstar tranny cooler 25000 gvw it works so nice...You can tell a difference when it shifts......also the temp always stays low since I have the escalade cluster and I can see the temp...
My cooler came with the necessary lines....I dont know about the B&M ones though...I would ask first..
It only took like 30 minutes to install...My dads mechanic did it for like 15$ bucks haha
After installing the motor, I am definately going to flush the engine with oil. What would be the best way to go about this? Should I use regular 10w30 first and then after flushing it just put in synthetic?
Sounds good to me....I know my dad did something like that when he put the new 4 banger in his WWII Jeep...
Or did he just use synthetic twice? :nutz:
*edit* already asked this question nvm.
TTT for a few more questions...
I have the motor mounts to make the 5.3 work, do I need new hardware for that or can I use my old bolts and stuff?
You can use the old bolts.
anyone know where the Oil Pickup Tube goes? I have one layin around that is supposed to go on the 5.3 and it doesnt really specify where, or what it is in my Haynes Manual.
That sounds scary :laugh:
One end bolts to the oil pump on one end with a little 4mm bolt and on the other end it bolts to one of the main cap bolts only after the windage tray has been mounted.
Make sure you use a new "O" ring from GM. Don't reuse an old one.
Oh yeah, without the o-ring you'd be sucking air and burn the engine up, plain and simple. :whack: Good catch, Jeff.
Ducky update update update.
We wanna hear it run.
See it do a burn out.:burnout:
You and me both man. I think the only thing thats really been motivating me to complete is what its going to sound like when I fire it up. I just put some pics up over in the pic section.