Too bad you didn't have a set of f-body exhausts, you wouldn't have had to do that. :doh:
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Too bad you didn't have a set of f-body exhausts, you wouldn't have had to do that. :doh:
Don't remind me. I was getting impatient, and felt the need to get something done this past weekend. It hurt me to have to do it, but it'll be fine. If I run into some later, I'll just change it out. :-(
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3/8/06 update
Allen...
Got 'em on right after I Pm'd ya. For the barb'd ends to the hose, I started the ends inside the hose, then turned the end upside down on my kitchen counter. Bearing down on the hose, I was able to ratchet the barb'd end inside the hose using a crescent wrench. That was the easiest way to do it. I was looking at the fuel pump I have, and it looks like I'll be able to use the 3/8 to -6AN compression fitting as well. Should've bought more then, but wasn't sure. The "doozie" is deciding on where to mount the external fuel pump.
I'll post up more later... Maybe even some pics...
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4/20/06 update
Rigged the wiring to check for shorts & non-intentional grounds. Happy to report no abnormalities found. Felt good to see my interior/exterior lightning still work, and 5.3 underhood fuse center is not corroded to crap. Will sort out & designate which leads I will use on my OBS harness. Gotta check OBS wiring schematics this evening. Gotta work on fuel pump wiring. I just realized I didn't think about filter fittings when I placed an order for fittings. Does anyone think running fuel without a filter for initial startup (10 seconds max) would be too hazardous? Guessing it would.
I plan to make things neater b/t now and this weekend. I'll be salvage yard huntin' for a starter & coolant bottle on Saturday. I hope to turn the key Saturday... notice I said HOPE... hope that's not wishful thinking. I'm dying to hear this thing crank.
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Got a starter... one problem...
Starter engages the flexplate, but doesn't turn the motor. I was wondering if the salvage yard starter I have is bad. I took it down, and spun it unbolted. A couple friends came over and said the starter didn't seem to spin as hard/fast as they expected. I tried to pull the starter off of my Yukon, but after 20 minutes of unsuccessfully removing the starter, I bolted it back. Time will not permit me going back to the salvage yard til next Saturday.
I'll try to get the fuel line finished & the pump wired this week.
Sounds like a dead battery.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Apr 23 2006, 11:36 AM) [snapback]50868[/snapback]</div>:cool:Quote:
Sounds like a dead battery.
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I had hoped it was just the battery.... but.... tried the battery out of my Yukon before I attempted to pull the Yukon's starter. I'm in the habit of thinking hard BEFORE I work hard. :laugh: I'll bite the bullet next week (sometime) to get an Autozone starter just to try out. If that's the case, that ole j/y starter is goin back to the j/y.
Did you try hooking a jumper cable or something to the motor wire coming out of the main starter windings? Maybe you can just take it apart and clean it up. The gear reduction area may have something stuck in it or it is rusted up internally from flood water. I took mine apart last week to clean and lube it since it had over 120k on it and I can afford to R&R it but not replace it.
Ya know... never thought about doing that. May try it tomorrow (after work). I've got 30 days to take back. Certainly enuff time to experiment. Thanks!
Here's an update:
I go outside again to prime the fuel setup, and what do I hear? Liquid hitting the ground... thought it was rain, but it was fuel. :shock: Strong odor coming from under the truck. Disconnect the hard-wired fuel pump, and notice fuel coming from the rail's regulator area (I think that's what it's called). I then let out a Charlie Brown AAARRRRRGGGGG!!!! *sigh* I'll disconnect the return line, and put it in the same tank I had the feed line in (dunno why I didn't do that the first time).
Here's some pics:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...elIssue002.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...elIssue004.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...elIssue006.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...elIssue007.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...elIssue008.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...elIssue009.jpg
For those that dunno, my motor was siezed due to sitting so long. Had to use some special lube oil (WD40) to get things loose.
Sweet! Looks like you got things going your way. I hope you get it running soon.
Question: Can I bypass the starter relay, and jumper directly to the starter to make the motor run?
I know VATS has been turned off on my PCM. I bypassed the relay just to test to see if starter would turn the crank & all. It does, but the motor doesn't seem to fire up. BTW, I have a stock engine harness & underhood fuse center (no more extra money right now), fuel feed/return is rigged in a safe way w/o leaks, pump works great (dunno actual pressure to intake tho), but plugs don't seem to fire. Is there something I'm missing? All coil packs plugged in... lost...
HELP!!!
You may have missed a power lead for the coil packs or injectors. Also, make sure your crank sensor and cam sensor connectors are plugged in and the leads aren't shorted out or cut.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Apr 26 2006, 07:22 PM) [snapback]51330[/snapback]</div>I'll check the cam sensor. That was the one that got ripped off during the install (my goof up for attempting with wiring attached :bash: ). Power leads for packs or injectors? Isn't that all on the stock main engine harness?Quote:
You may have missed a power lead for the coil packs or injectors. Also, make sure your crank sensor and cam sensor connectors are plugged in and the leads aren't shorted out or cut.
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Yeah, there are all kinds of power leads in the harness to be handled. Just pull the connector off the coil packs and injectors and check for power when switched on. If you are getting spark, you could be having the same problem I had on my first engine, frozen injectors.
I was doing a transmission rebuild and pinched the cam sensor wires between the engine and transmission case, cutting the wires. Truck wouldn't start afterwards. I had to resolder all the cut leads. :thumbdown: :tantrum:
OK... camshaft sensor Red & Brn/wht wires were switched. You hit the nail on the head with INJA, INJB, etc. No power to the fuses AT ALL! Now trying to figure out why. I see why so much goes into harness pricing. Eiy Yeiy Yeiy! *sigh*
Made it over a big hurdle tonight... It crank'd over, but died right after. Gonna take more time tomorrow to map out additional power leads. Breathing a sigh of relief. Motor's good, and open headers/manofolds are LOUD! :laugh:
More later... *edit* found out that VATS was NOT removed from the PCM. NUTS!!!!!
Bummer Dude. At least you got to hear it roar to life. Time to work out the little things. :thumb:
How far does your motor sit from the firewall? Did you have to notch anything to keep the stock a/c compressor? How well do the exhaust manifolds clear?
The back of the intake is about 3 inches (at least) off the firewall. That allows me to run the stock A/C compressor. If I move it back, the back of the compressor hits the motor mounts.
As for plates, I bought mine from BRP. They can be moved around to accomodate the position that satisfies you. I chose to mount forward b/c I wanted the stock A/C. Since I'd have to pay for custom exhaust anyhow, I sacrificed position for that. Frame notching is a must in the 81 - 87 trucks using stock NBS manifolds. Unless you have f-body manifolds. Apparently, those hug the block more. Clearance w/o notching may not be an issue.
It doesnt look like you had to notch the frame at all to fit the engine with the A/C Compressor.
So all you have to do is get car headers and the Brp Motor mount plates? What about your A/C lines? What are you gonna do to adapt those to your existing A/C system?
Have a contact within 20 miles that a budy is getting custom AC lines fab'd. I'll be doing the same thing after the trucks moving on it's own power.
If I had car manifolds w/o EGR, I may not have had to notch the frame. I haven't been concentrating on the manifolds yet. That'll get handled before I drive it to the exhaust shop.
IM going to have to see where front of the big block thats in my truck now sits and compare it to your pics. It looks like the front of your motor is in the same spot as the font of the big block in my truck. Keep me posted on the A/C lines cause im gonna need some custom ones too. Thanks for the info.
Got a few things done. Attempted to permanently mate my fuel return line to a hard line using compression fitting... nothing but leaks (even with teflon). Oh well... Cleaned up wiring a bit.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...kKnacks003.jpg
Gonna end up removing these later... Don't think it's high pressure hose (see words on hose).
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...kKnacks002.jpg
Column Shifter is all set.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...kKnacks006.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...kKnacks005.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...kKnacks004.jpg
Took me a while to drill through the chasis... at least til I got a real sharp bit. New bits are bad ass... they make quick work of a hard job. Been working on the truck for over 8 hours.
Yeah, that's a bad idea, low pressure hose on the pressure side. :whack:
I'd suggest you get the smooth band type hose clamps instead of the worm gear types that crush the hose and cuts the rubber outter liner.
Looks like you're making good progress. Keep it up and you'll be on the road pretty soon! :rock:
Told the idiot at O'Reilly I needed FI system hose. I get home and see that crap. Auto parts places aren't what they use to be. SAD!
I was just over on hotrodlane.cc and they had some details of installing an LS1 into a 77 C10 in their installations section.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ May 9 2006, 07:20 PM) [snapback]52582[/snapback]</div>I know... what do you think pushed me forward with getting this project started? :hshake: My truck's very similar to that one. Cannot force into 1st with the column shifter. That's all good, tho.Quote:
I was just over on hotrodlane.cc and they had some details of installing an LS1 into a 77 C10 in their installations section.
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Is your truck steering column for a 3 or 4 speed automatic? That may be your problem of its for a 3 speed, not enough travel. If you need more travel, you can lengthen the distance from the shift rod to the transmission lever but you indicator may be off.
Is your truck steering column for a 3 or 4 speed automatic? That may be your problem of its for a 3 speed, not enough travel. If you need more travel, you can lengthen the distance from the shift rod to the transmission lever but you indicator may be off.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(1BADC10 @ May 10 2006, 05:19 PM) [snapback]52687[/snapback]</div>Mine's the same, haven't taken the time to do anything about it. I have a 3 speed auto tilt column I got out of a early 70's van.... If I want it to engage fully in park, I have to adjust it so I can't get first. I have the same issue with my LT1/4L60E 68 Camaro... Never got around to fixing that one either and that swap has been running over 6 years now.....Quote:
I know... what do you think pushed me forward with getting this project started? :hshake: My truck's very similar to that one. Cannot force into 1st with the column shifter. That's all good, tho. [/b]
Have no need to force in 1st. Park is more important. :smile:
With my gear set, 2nd is as low as I want to get from 50+. If I'm below that, WOT will force into 1st. :thumb:
BTW, 3-spd column is what I have.
Getting closer...
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...25/POSI001.jpg
Getting even closer... goin' to get custom driveshaft tomorrow. Finished all plumbing lines except the rubber hoses connecting the hard lines to the tank. I plan to remove the bed to take care of those... eventually. Yes, the "not for fuel injection" hoses in my previous post has been replaced. :laugh:
Power steering is fully function, and brakes... well, I want to upgrade the factory setup for greater performance. For now, they're still functional.
I'm nearly finished with the swap, but it seems the transmission doesn't get into first. I have a PTC 3000 stall TC in a stock 4L60E, and my truck's a dog from the start. Look at my sig to see details on truck. Here are the codes I'm getting:
P0706 - Trans Range Switch Performance (Old) (History) (Immature)
P0740 - TCC Enable Solenoid Circuit Electrical (SES) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
P0753 - 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical (Old) (Current) (Immature)
P0758 - 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical (SES) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
P0785 - 3-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical (SES) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
P1860 - TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical (SES) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
I've got access to HP Tuners, and tried to drive it for the first time. With no exhaust, I expected a lot of power loss & lots of noise, but it felt as if the truck wouldn't go past 10mph. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thx!
-Ron
I did the same thing! I forgot to hook up a pink wire that gives power to the tranny for the solenoids and the torque converter clutch.
Mine is circuit # 239 or 839 in the tranny.
Searching Alldata now. HELP!!!! :jump:
*edit* Circuit #239 is on the main harness. I'll have to probe around to ensure voltage is there. Circuit #839 diagram was found. Looking further.
What setup do you have for a air pipe and filter, stock or aftermarket? Can you post pictures of it? Thanks
Hmm... I'll assume you're referring to Air Intake, and not A.I.R. :laugh: The intake tube was bought from someone on PT for $10. I guess he figured he'd cool the air down further to by putting Cool Tape all over the K&N tube. The cone filter was purchased from auto-crap (pre-oiled.... surprised). Everything's tie-wrapped in place until I can fab some sort of bracket to hold it up.
Here's some updated pics:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...kWiring003.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...5312006005.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...5312006004.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...5312006003.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...5312006002.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...5312006001.jpg
Proud papa of a reborn Chevy! :thumb:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...5312006007.jpg
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(1BADC10 @ Jun 1 2006, 08:48 PM) [snapback]54504[/snapback]</div>UPDATE: Took time off after the POSI / Gear install on Saturday. Decided to sleep late today. Went outside with a clear head, and looked at a trans manual. Found the pin on the main connector that provides power to the solenoids. Traced that back to a connector # and pin # from a schematic I found on AllData. There were two leads on the stock harness that didn't have the required 12V. Got those powered, and all was great. BTW, those were a part of circuit #1020.Quote:
OK... not much luck on the trans issue. There was one 239 circuit under the C3 portion of the fuse center that I had not connected. Fixed that, but the trans still starts of in 3rd only. I've gotta put my DMM on it to get voltage values, but am frustrated now cuz that's the only thing that was visibly missing.
[/b]
This relief was a great early b-day gift. The UPS person will bring a few gauges as my true b-day gift tomorrow. I have some bills to take care of this month & next, then I can look at exhaust & fine tuning the PCM.
Cool, sounds like your almost done. I know how these things can take their toll on ya. Happy B-day!
Happy B-Day man!
Thanks guys! Hadn't hit 30 yet, but have two kids with one on the way, man, that accelerates life (or at least it feels that way sometimes). With kids gone to grandma's, me and my wife enjoyed a SILENT house yesterday. LOVELY!!!!