awesome man thanks for the clarification! Ill pull the drac harness out toning and take a look at it...im still about 2-3 months away from firing it up. Just sent the L92 heads off my LY6 to TEA to get a little work done :)
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My '93 wires are different colors. I didn't use the buffer since the PCM has the buffer included inside it(or doesn't use it at all). I ran the cruise wires from the PCM directly to the cruise control module. The only thing I had to get was the brake input to shut down the cruise when the brake is applied. I got this from the rear ABS module which is in close proximity to the cruise module.
Can you elaborate on the cruise control wiring? What pins and connector do they come from on the PCM and what year engine are you using? My 95 has a standalone cruise module and the only signal missing to it (since I removed the drac) is speed signal, that is why I spliced the two wires together at the drac.
It's also worth mentioning that I got rid of both the DRAC and old ECU.
Jeebalow you were right about the color wires at my drac module. Mine were drk grn/wht and drk grn. I also tossed my drac module in the trash
My engine is a '99 6 liter and it's PCM. I will have to track down the wiring for you. I used the '99 GM truck service manual wiring diagram along with the '93 Chevy truck wiring diagram manual to get the wiring schematics.
If you haven't already checked out this site, do so. It was immensely helpful in getting the wiring ironed out.
http://lt1swap.com/99-02_vortec_pcm.htm
Mickey, I did use that site to rework my 2001 harness. The reason I asked about wiring is because the 99-02 PCM only has a cruise control enable wire (I checked on lt1swap.com before asking) . AFAIK, other than that, the rest of the cruise was handled by a cruise control module.
From your post above it seemed as though you were using the new PCM for cruise or you are using the 99 cruise control module. As I understand it, you should be able to just give the obs cruise module the speed signal it needs and it will still function exactly as it did before. The rest of the wiring to it should be untouched during the engine swap. Can you clarify what you did a little more. Not necessarily "this pin to this pin connected" , but more general "I used the 9X cruise module and LS pcm".
I actually wanted to use the '99 cruise module. I took it from the donor truck but it was defective. After multiple attempts to wire it and not have it work, I figured I'd try the '93 module originally equipped with the truck. It ended up my original wiring was correct and made the '93 module work like a charm. What I can do is pull out my '99 service manual, scan the cruise control schematic, and then post it here. Hopefully this will help you. It has been about 3 years since I swapped engines so things are a little fuzzy.
The reason the PCM is involved with the cruise in the first place is that while in cruise, the PCM alters shift patterns so there is seamless performance while in cruise control. If you have 4 wheel drive, there is also a 4 wheel enable wire that lets the PCM know when the transfer case is in Low gear. This allows the PCM to shift the trans while the transfer case is in low gear. Originally, I left this wire unconnected, later to find out that, while in the transfer case was in low range, the transmission would not shift out of 1st gear. Hooking up this wire to the transfer case low switch allowed the PCM to shift the trans while in Low gear range.
Oh I see. I have a manual trans so I ended up just removing all of the transmission wiring from the LS harness. I will be using the 95 cruise module. I'll report back on whether what I did works or not. It would be nice if the electrical diagrams also included the type of signal that each wire had. It would make this much easier.
Sorry for the thread jack OP
Does your nv4500 have the exterior slave or interior slave? Also do you happen to know the 1st and reverse gear ratio? I was going to stick with the exterior slave when I bought my nv4500 but would rather have a 5.61 reverse ratio than a 6.34.
Yea mine has the external slave...not sure of the actual gear ratio. I know it has one hell granny gear tho.
Finally got my heads back from TEA and started assembling! After a long weekend she runs! It still is a long way from being done, but I couldnt resist hearing it run. First start up, open headers- http://youtu.be/VlzXut3D6YU
Damn that sounds good!
Is the reverse gear too low? That's my only concern because reverse is supposed to be the same ratio as 1st/granny and 6.34 is really low.
It's been a while since Iv driven it, but I don't remember reverse being too low. 1st was so low that I hardly ever used it unless I was towing
Got the exhaust fabbed up using the exhaust that was on the truck and a few other pieces Layin around. 3" Into a 3" x-pipe, dual 3" magnaflows.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...0CBBB86F56.jpg
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...36A91CFBD0.jpg
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...9159246D28.jpg
Little pic I snapped of my heads after I got them back from TEA :)
Gonna sound good! Get that thing on the road already!
well guys shes on the road! Got if finished up saturday...took a lot of tuning to get it running half decent. But man is she running great now! it will blow the tires off at 50mph! I raced my old 08 sierra with a 370 LY6, 4.11 gear, 3200 stall, etc and flat blew its doors off! I hope to get the tuned dialed in and hit the dyno soon...im thinking itll put down around 450-470rwhp. The NV4500 DOES NOT like high rpm 1-2 shifting lol it will not go into 1st or 2nd gear at anything over about 3500 rpm. 3rd and 4th seem to shift flawlessly at high rpm. All my factory gauges work except the tach...not really sure why. It only goes to 5000 rpm anyways so i planned on going with an aftermarket tach.
I snapped a few pics of the somewhat finished install. Still need to clean up some wires and do a few other little things. Here she is
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...0D2F9F1FD2.jpg
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...8793E29043.jpg
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...ADD3876974.jpg
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...00E65D61A9.jpg
That's awesome! Videos of said race or it didn't happen... And blowing tires of at 50 as well.
What's the final spec list on the swap?
Must be tons of fun! You could also get a 96+ gauge cluster and put it in. The vortec sbc had a red line of 6000. I found a police cluster locally with 6K redline and 130MPH speedo that I will be using. If you get I think 98+ you have to solder a jumper for it to work. There's lots of info on this on the forums (not just this one).
Yea I def need to get some videos! I'll work on getting some for yall to watch.
Is the 96+ cluster swap a direct swap???
Unless you go above 98, it is. After 98 or 99 you have to add the jumper on there. You can also swap over the odometer so the mileage reads the same.
Awesome....so say I swapped in a 96+ cluster, do you happen to know if I can just hook the white tach wire from the new pcm to the back of the cluster? If so do you know what color wire I need to hook to and what pin location it is?
Here's the only vid I have for now.... Took this right before I did the exhaust. This is open headers and the tune was way off. She smooths out and starts hittin one wicked lick :)
http://youtu.be/SXvzvjo7Cg4
The cluster is a direct bolt in, you don't change the connector so the wires all remain the same. Yes, you can hook the white tack wire to the wires going into the connector that goes to the cluster. According to the wiring diagram from alldatadiy, and how I wired mine, it's the white wire in pin #6 on the back of the cluster. This white wire originally came from the ignition coil on your TBI motor. If you still have that wire in the engine bay you can splice into that and there will be no need to go into the cab.
http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/...psmin6mavx.jpg
Here's some info on the police cluster, it's hard to find and you will need the jumper on these. To be safe just look for a 96-97 cluster then it should be a direct swap IIRC, but do some searching first don't take my word for it.
http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthre...ap-Step-Motors
Hmmmmm I hooked to the white wire that was originally for the coil and my tach doesn't work...Maybe I messed up somewhere. I'll ohm the wire under the hood and at the cluster and make sure I hooked to the right wire.
Yeah, just check for continuity. You can see the diagram has the tack connected to the ignition coil. If it ends up not working try this:
http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm
This is awesome! Yeah, we need some videos...in cab video shifting as well. Does the 95 2500 have the same updated interior as the 95 1500? Or is it the older interior like the 89-94 1500 interior?
Yea mine has the updated interior. Once the rain quits I'll get some vids. It's supposed to rain solid for like a week :(
Damn. Was hoping you were gonna say the old interior like I have and it was a direct swap because when I searched it seemed like a 95-98 cluster swap into a 92 was either not doable or a huge pain in the ass.
I'm looking at this one:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd911.htm
It will display A/F as well
oh lawd at the price tag on that bad boy! Ya that look like a nice little set up tho
Yeah, that's why I was hoping the 95+ would swap right in cause that bastard is expensive!
To get it to display a/f or a bunch of other readings you need an expansion module:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd785.htm
Still requires a wideband but would display on the dash.
I hooked the white tach wire from the new PCM to the white wire at the back of my factory gauge cluster....the tach operates now, but is no where near being accurate. At 4000rpm it's only reading around 1800rpm. I'm thinkin I may need to try the resistor trick????
Mine did the exact same thing! It reads half of the actual RPM. If the tach moves, then everything should be wired correctly. The tune needs to be changed to a V8 signal instead of a 4 cylinder signal. Your tuner should be able to fix that easily. Of course, you can try the resistor and see if it helps before trying the tune, but I think the resistor trick was for when the gauge didn't work. Regardless it's easy enough to give it a shot first especially if you have to mail your PCM in to be tuned.
Na I have hp tuners so adjusting the tach signal won't be a problem....I'll do some research and see what it needs to be set at in the tune
Videos man! We need more videos!