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Ima try and help with a few of your issues. Speedo doesn't go thru pcm. I THINK (no diagram in front of me right now) signal Goes straight from sensor to drac (box behind glove box above pcm) which decipheres signal. and it sends new signal to speedo and cruise box. So either faulty vss sensor, wiring, drac box or speedo.
As for the wipers, common issue on these trucks is the module for the speed of them. It's located next to the motor. Pull I think like 3 screws and cover comes off and module will slide right out. Solder joints go bad on them. I replaced mine and it fixed the intermittent issues. Only like 20 bucks from auto part store. Good luck
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Sooo I got most of the issues figured out with one "fix"....I forgot to connect a connector. Specifically the white connector next to the original PCM. So everything is running great now! I've been driving it since Saturday now, and all I can say is WOW! What a HUGE difference a motor swap can make to the overall feel of the truck. I'll be posting some vids soon....
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Did you get the speedo to work
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Yes I did get the speedo to work. This is that connector that I ran some wires through to utilize my '90 under dash fuse block so I didn't have to add one under the hood anywhere.
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...pshsydawko.jpg
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This is just a little video of the exhaust. Schoenfeld longtubes, full 3" exhaust, dual in/single out "Wicked Flow" 18" muffler.
Headers-1302LS1 Muffler-$75 Ebay Special
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...psmc8ghgqn.mp4
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Wow I feel bad for not updating this thread with what has been going on with the truck. Since the last post, I have been side swiped and been repainted AND have done some upgrades to the 5.3. However I have put over 50K miles on this motor that had 160Kish when I pulled it out of the Avalanche, and did not treat it nicely AT ALL! I've beat the shit outta this motor trying to squeeze what I could out of it NA. This had let to some bearing material being found on an oil change during 10/7/2016. I have been more than happy with what this motor has done for me! This winter I am going to be swapping the motor for a forged 347 that I built while I was at School of Automotive Machinists as an "after school project" with the Engine Block instructor. The motor this time is going to be done right with the mindset of helping my truck become more competitive for Auto-X. The forged 347 is going to be topped with a set of ported 706 heads, ported and shaved TBSS intake w/ 92mm DBC throttle body, BTR dual valve springs, BTR .105 wall pushrods, and BTR titanium retainers. This time around we are going booooooosted with a On3 Performance 70mm turbo (small for quick spool needed in Auto-X), WyngonM 60mm WG and BOV, all protected by a GFB "Turbofuse" in case of WG failure. This will be setup for E85 with dual in tank On3 320 LPH pumps in a 25 gallon Blazer tank that's headed out back. They'll be wired on a boost referenced Hobb's switch, also will have a boost referenced fuel regulator as well. I'll start a new thread with all this and more info on it. There's plenty for me to update with this last iteration of the Avalanche motor though. Stay posted! Should update this later tonight with that.
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WOW!!!!
Very nice and detailed instructions - thank you for continuing to update the post with info others will benefit from.
Your truck looks awesome!
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Nice swap I only wish some of the routing pics of the old tbi harness and the other under hood shots were still visible. Look forward to the upgrades.
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I'll spill the beans on my current setup that has now officially bit the dust! RIP overworked 5.3 :)
-5.3 LM7 Avalanche junkyard motor that read 160K on the odometer; However.... I could see new head gaskets, water pump, knock sensors, some coils, all plugs and wires replaced as well. Felt pretty good about spending the $950 for a complete pull out.
-I ported and polished the 862's and had them milled .040, installed BTR .650 valvesprings, and installed new seals
-Used "Caddy lifters" and .080 wall BTR pushrods @ 7.35" IIRC and installed new LS2 lifter trays
-Cut a factory 3 bolt truck intake and ported the inside by getting rid of the rear wall and "NVH Tuned Port" as well as port matching to heads. During this I decided to shave the intake as well.
-NOS 8.1 Marine Injectors, being fueled by a '97 C1500 fuel pump
-Schoenfield 1302LS1 headers and full 3" exhaust
-The "key" to this iteration of build was the cam: 229/242 .610/.615 @108
-Mind you that I never did a single modification to the short block aside from installing new gaskets for the heads and covers.
-This motor was a high RPM motor built with ALL USED PARTS aside from the valvestem seals and pushrods. The tranny is a 700R4 that is built with just about everything aside from a 5 gear rear planetary, and hardened shafts. The rear end is a FACTORY G80 (that still works surprisingly good) with 3:42's spinning 305/35 R20
-On a Mustang Dyno it put down 369/347 @ 7300 RPM to the tire. My tuner at the time felt that it could definitely handle more RPM, but didn't feel that I should without at least doing rod bolts and getting rid of the G80 differential.
- I have lots of video of this setup, just haven't been on this site in a while. Part of me wants to stay with a high revving NA setup with my forged 347, but I feel that I need to "step my game up" and run boost.
-You guys think I should start a new thread for my "Winter 2016 Build" or just continue with this current thread?
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Looking to do the same how did you know what wires to remove from TBI and why did you do to combine both harnesses?
