Sorry I'm just now seeing this but I had that same exact question about the connector and even asked a shop but they had no clue.
It's the connector for your old o2 sensor
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Sorry I'm just now seeing this but I had that same exact question about the connector and even asked a shop but they had no clue.
It's the connector for your old o2 sensor
I think your're right about that, it just might be the 02 connector. Thanks. Anybody know the answer to my gauge/sender question??Quote:
Originally Posted by silverado_lover
Tried moving the needle to the empty position. The needle goes up and down, but its still off. Should I try to find a 98 instrument cluster? If I do, will everything work on it (fuel, alt, battery, oil pressure, coolant, speedometer, tachometer)? Really not sure about this one. Need some help, please.
Have you tried bending the float arm down?Quote:
Originally Posted by HRV-LS1
The assembly is out of the tank. No I haven't bent the arm down. I think I'm going to try to get a hold of a stepper motor from a 98 fuel gauge, if they are available. I 've tried searching on line, can't find any. I'll call the dealer and see.
One other thing, would a 98 instrument cluster work?? :help:Quote:
Originally Posted by HRV-LS1
Got good news. Did some searching, and found a solution to my fuel gauge problem. Bought a 97 Grand Prix sending unit, part # 25319676. It has 0-90 ohms that my fuel gauge needs. All I needed to do was do some depinning and spliced a couple of wires to lengthen the new sending unit. Tested the gauge and it works great.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...lsender183.jpg
Here it is!
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...lsender184.jpg
I also mounted my ecu on the passenger fender well. Got a question, what can I do about that hole where my old air-filter box was? Does GM sell something that goes there or do I need to improvise?
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...lsender179.jpg
Where are you running your cold air intake?I ran mine over to that hole for some cold outside air.What mount did you end up getting for the ecu?
I need to use the stock air filter box for the 5.3. Its going to be right in that left corner pocket where the holes are. Its gotta be there because of smog. I ended up buying the one from hawkes. It looked good to me. I only used 2 of the 3 mounting holes, because of space. Still it looks alright. I still got to find something to block that old hole with.
Youre going to get fresh air out of that hole. It will help keep the ECU cool. Id leave it.
Here goes another question. Want to use my stock tachometer. The 5.3 ecu gives out a signal likes it a 4 cylinder engine. Don't know why, I was told that. Anyway I need to buy the dakota digital SGI-8 module. I would like to install the module under the dash and run the wires through the firewall. I have a ready made wire on my S&P harness thats marked "tach", and need to know where the wire is that goes to my tach gauge. I believe its a white wire, according to the manual. If its under the hood, that would be great, because
looking at the harness behind the instrument cluster looks like a pain-in-the-a**% to get to to. Does anyone know where that wire might be under the hood? :ugh2:
Maybe this will help. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...bs-z-71-a.html
or you can also look here http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_tsd/ or do a search for baker electronix on here.
It should be the white wire that goes to the distributor.You shouldn't need a dakota module to use your stock tach.I am using the signal from the 5.3 ecu and my tach works perfectly.You may have to change something in the tune to make it work properly.
S & P told me that 03 and up need the module because the ecu puts out a 4 cylinder signal , resulting in your tach not working right. How exactly did you wire yours?
Did some searching. Found out on youtube, its the white wire at the coil. Problem solved.
Today I had to seperate my instrument cluster, and I think I didn't put the temp needle back where its suppose to be. How can I get the needle right on temperture?
Got the truck started. Good oil pressure. Had the exhaust hooked up. Took it for a spin. The speedometer doesn't work, the lights at the instrument cluster are not on for (P,N, R,D,1,2,3), and it won't shift out of 1st gear. I piggy-backed the 95 VSS connector to the 03 VSS connector and still the speedometer doesn't work. I tried changing those two wires at the VSS around, still nothing. All of the transmission connectors are hooked up from the 03 harness, except for the one rectangular one on the drivers side, ( it has 6 wires at that connector) which is coming from the 95 harness. Any ideas?
that rectangular plug with 6 wires is for the prndl indicator Thats why it wont indicate what gear you're in
Thanks. The prndl indicator light works. Still the truck won't go into 3rd and 4th. Plus the speedometer doesn't work. Anybody?
If the speedometer is not working, the trans will not shift into 3rd and 4th gears. Use this link it may help you.
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...ol-wiring.html
I looked over that thread. My wires at the vss are green and yellow. I'll try changing them around again. One thing I forgot to mention was that my tach is working either. Bought a
module for it thats suppose to make it work. Got to look into that also. Could that tach have anything to do with my transmission not shifting too? Another question, if i plugged in the transmission connector (on the passenger side) in backwards, could that cause this problem?
what did you do with your pcm? i assume you got the vats removed. did you also have it set up to run the rest of the parts on your truck? im pretty sure the tach signal can be changed to 8 cylinder and you need to tell the pcm which trannyto controll. what was behind the motor in the suburban? im not sure why you were trying to drive it without the rectangular plug installed... and as for the tach, if you have an 03+ pcm, you just need to add the resistor which is what got mine working. http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm
you should check out my swap thread. lots of useful info in there that im sure will help you out. also there are some diagrams i posted on the tranny plugs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kewljay223
The pcm was handled by S & P. They removed the vats, put in tire size and rear gear ratio. The pcm is suppose to run the engine and trans, for all I know. I believe the suburban had a 4l60e behind it, but I didn't actually see it. That rectangular plug on the drivers side has been plugged in. I have a new rectangular plug from the new harness that I'm not using.
well if they set it up for your swap then you should be good to go. i had the same done to mine and it shifts into all grears like its supposed to....hhmmmm. but why arent you using the new plug since your new computer is whats controlling it...??? i think thats your problem... im assuming the new one is just dangling down there? try pluggin it in instead. i bet that fixes it. i cut out my old one and let the new pcm cotroll everything and it seems to work flawlessly. worth a shot
Quote:
Originally Posted by kewljay223
Who did your harness? S & P did mine. At the start all the new plugs were plugged in. But the truck wouldn't start, no power to selector switch. Plugged back 2 old plugs at selector switch, and truck started and power to selector switch. Now it won't shift to 3rd, 4th. I'm thinking they didn't program it right. Now there telling me to put a scanner to it, I don't want to shell $400 for a scanner. I didn't read your entire thread, is yours smog legal? I bought a module for the tach, need to reprogram it, shouldn't be a big problem.
i did the wiring myself. my motor came with the harness/pcm/fuse box so i just married the new harness to the truck. i also kept the old fuse box cuz i didnt want to change anything existing on the rest of the truck so i now have two. as it sits now, the new pcm controls everything powertrain wise. the old pcm is in place pretty much just for the abs. but it sounds like your controlling the motor with the new pcm and the tranny with the old pcm since you have the old plugs pluged in.. i dont think that can work.... im pretty sure you need to use the new pcm.
idk what they did to the harness so it will be difficult for me to diagnose. you might just have to start tracing wires out.... what kind of scanner are you referring to? that seems steep. is it just to see what codes the pcm is throwing? i bought this tool for my laptop and it works great. http://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/p...bdlink-sx.html
my truck is going to be smog legal. just got it running last week so i still have a little bit more to tidy up before i take it to the ref. hope i pass!!
The new pcm is suppose control the engine and trans. When I plugged everything in, it couldn't start and there was no indicator light at the selector switch. I thought I was suppse to plug in all of the new connections and thats it. S & P told me to try plugging in the old 2 connectors at the trans selector, I did and it started and the light came on. The 1 connector with the 6 wires at it ( for the trans selector) has a purple wire that goes to my starter. Thats why it started. So at the trans, the only new connectors plugged in are the round one on the passenger side, and the vss. Could it be that they didn't program the pcm correctly? Maybe the only old connector that needs to be plugged in is the 6 wire one at the trans selector (because of the wire that goes to the starter wire).
well it is def possible that they didnt program it right. dont see how they could make that mistake but hey, we all do it. i need a bit more info tho. did you get the harnes and pcm with the motor and send it to them to modify or did they make one from scratch? i find it odd that they would tell you to plug in the old connectors if the new harness they worked on has the same ones.... that sounds fishy to me. i understand what you mean by the starting problem. in my thread there is a section specifically on that connector so i understand the differences between the old and new. the new one starts the car very differently. but i can tell you from my experience that it should still start it if wired correctly. the only wire i had to modify on that connector is the light green which turns the reverse lights on. my prnd light does not work and thats my bad. i think i forgot to hook that one up. but other than that the new pcm starts the car. you shouldnt have to use the old plugs. thats why im concerned as to why they told you to do that... very odd. do u know how to read a wiring diagram? i can post each one and explain it for you but you will have to trace it. let me know if you want me to do that.
They made a brand new wiring harness for me. The engine came with a harness, pcm, etc. The new connector that goes to the trans selector, has 1 wire in the connector. The old oneQuote:
Originally Posted by kewljay223
has 6 wires. I think I'm suppose to somehow add the old wires to the new connector to make this work. I know there are 2 connectors that go to the trans selector. The second one, which has 4 wires going to it, doesn't work when plugged in. When I use the old one ( 4 wire connector), then the selector lights up. I believe I can read wiring diagrams, I use to work on refrigerated containers. Any help would be great.
Update. Got the truck running and shifting correctly. Speedometer works also. Just reversed the old vss wires at the new vss connector and, viola it works! Also hooked up the new fuel pump relay, which helped with my starting problems. One thing, what are these engines suppose to idle at? My engine is at 550. Seems low to me. Shouldn't it be around 750? Maybe I need to replace the plugs and wires?
I just looked at a stock tune and they are set to idle at 525 rpms when warm.
Got it idling at 650. Idles smooth. Tons of power. Took it for a drive, and it's fantastic. The dbw is awesome. Never owned a V8 in my life, this 5.3 is terrific. Its exactly what I wanted.
im glad you got the 5.3 running! but now i think its time to upgrade to a 6.0 ;)
Currently installing new brakes. Going to get new wheels/ tires. Also, need to send out my airbag module. It has a light on all the time. I'll try looking for a place to send it that can tell me why its on and clear it. The dealer wants $100 just to look at anything. After that, need the bracket thats on the underside of the engine cover, time to visit the salvage yard again.Quote:
Originally Posted by kewljay223
get a scanner bro... there is no need to give the stealership 100 bucks to tell you whats wrong when you can get a scanner for half that and diagnose it yourself. got mine for 50 bucks and its an aweosme investment.
Do you have a particular scanner in mind?Quote:
Originally Posted by kewljay223
http://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/p...bdlink-sx.html
this is the one that i have. there are upgrades you can get too for more detailed info. i really like it. but its software for a pc. so you will need a laptop to use it.
Should both of my radiator hoses be extremely hot, upper and lower? I believe there is plenty of coolant in the engine and radiator. Took it for a ride, engine temp gauge reads normal.
Well normal operating temp is around 200 degrees. What are u considering "extremly hot"? Id say anything 200 degrees is not gonna be fun to touch. Lol