O2camaross what did you ever figure out on getting the 15's to fit?
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O2camaross what did you ever figure out on getting the 15's to fit?
+1 and the compression has to do with the 243's which have larger compression chambers, which they tried to make up for with flat tops, but its still 9.1.Quote:
Originally Posted by o2camaross
AHHHHH forgot they had 243's or 799 heads on them. Thats a good thing lolQuote:
Originally Posted by kerrige
Quote:
Originally Posted by jansen
I did. I did a drum brake swap from a 05 silverado. The O.D. of the drum is 13.2" and the I.D. of the diamond racing wheel im getting is 13.3"! pretty close lol. They are being built now and should ship next tuesday. Going with 325/50/15 nitto 555r's. Gonna look sick
Yea mine are 799's
I had my battle with those wheels. They do fit on the 05 drums, but the ones I had did not have a back bead on them so I had to run tubes in them to keep the tire on the bead.Quote:
Originally Posted by o2camaross
oh no. Are they the trucker series? With the D holes? Thats what I ordered
yep...
damnit!! you think they will be okay with nitto drag radials?
with lots of psi maybe.... But its just a huge risk if you ask me. if that bead cracks off any, the entire tire is coming off and it will be on steel... not like a normal wheel tire combo that just might go flat.
damn, Ill call them tomorrow and see whats up.
I found this pic from a google search. this is the 16x10 trucker wheels http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...5/IMG_0050.jpg That lip looks decent
Ugly....
haha yea it was from a euro forum. It was on a 240sx and he was saying he was going to put a 215 tire on it. A 10' rim with a 215!! anyway, is that about what yours looked like? Like lip wise...
Yep
ok well thanks for the heads up
Anytime
Hahaha this thread went from alt turbos to sizing a turbo to wheels. Thanks for the info though still, since im here i was thinkin a t76/96ar with my 4.8 tsp 220/581/112 with 3200 stall 4l60. Sound good?
That would be a good set up. I'd boost the hell out of it. Just be ready to beef up the 60e.Quote:
Originally Posted by RS/SS 4.8
Its gonna get boost but it may take a while. Gonna start getting parts for the 60 and get it ready.
haha sry it got so far off. anyway, I think that will work very well. throw 12psi at it and hold on!!
Will do.
Should be a great size for your setup considering your stall gearing and size of truck. It is really gonna scream with that cam especially. :devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by RS/SS 4.8
Meh just have the unofficial site trans builder do it for you. His transmissions are badazz for very reasonable cash.Quote:
Originally Posted by RS/SS 4.8
I see what you did there
Lol I did the same thing yesterday. Checked with him about a rebuild. When the time comes gonna yank out the Trans throw it in the back of my car and go for a road trip
Yeah i talked to him a while back, he will be gettin my tranny for sure.
Holsets, all day off a cummin, hx35, hx40. Alot of tuners put them on cars.
damm ugly kit lol
What size are those turbos?Quote:
Originally Posted by canada4g63
Take a seat.
HX35:
The 8blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on 1995-1998 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 52 lb/min according to the compressor map. The bolton BEP housing (0.55 a/r) is enough to push the limit of the compressor. There's several 500whp 8blade hx35 cars out there with the bolt on housing. It reaches 20+psi by 3500rpms in 3rd with 272 cams. Smaller cams would equal a faster spool speed in most cases.
The 7blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on the 1999-2002 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 60lb/min according to the compressor map and logged results from a member here. The bolton BEP housing with the hx35 turbine wheel do not SEAM to have enough flow to really reach the potential of 60lb/min. But many have logged over 50lb/min so far and seen 500whp. The stock hx35 12cm^2 twinscroll turbine housing is a t3 flange housing. This mated to a NON-divided runner manifold has produced a 132mph trap speed with a full weight 1g AWD. This is about 600whp. So the flow is there with the stock housing if you use a non-divided manifold. The spool speed of the 7blade hx35 is similar to the 8blade hx35 with 20+ psi by 3500rpms in the bolton housing and by 4000rpms with the stock housing with a non-divided manifold.
HY35:
The hy35 has a smaller turbine wheel than the hx35. And, it has a turbine housing connection that does not allow for a bolton housing to be used. It does not have a divided housing so any t3 manifold can be used effectively with this turbo. It has the same compressor as the 7blade hx35. We don't know if te hy35 turbine wheel and housing is enough to reache the 60lb/min potential of the 56mm 7blade compressor. Some one try it out already!!! It should at least be a faster spooling viable option to the full t3/t4 50-trim.
H1C/WH1C:
In 1994, there was the Wh1c which has pretty much the identical compressor as the hx35 but with a Vband compressor cover. The turbine wheel is the same. It will bolt into the BEP bolton hx35 turbine housing. It has 4 bolts at the housing instead of 6. So you will need to buy 2 more bolts and use 6 washers cut to make a flat side. Honestly, I just used bolts that were cut a little short and the bolt head was wide enough to pull the chra to the turbine housing. No sealing issues. Since the Wh1c is for all practical purposes an 8blade hx35 the spool and flow is the same too.
I have the big h1c. It comes on the INTERCOOLED 1991-1993 cummins pickups. It has the webbing for MWE but no groove cut like the hx35/wh1c has. This turbo I term the big h1c because it has a 54mm compressor inducer and same exducer than the 8blade hx35/Wh1c. The other h1c is the small h1c found on the NON-intercooled cummins pickups. This has a 50mm inducer but only 7blades and has no webbing for MWE. Less blades helps flow, but so does a larger inducer diameter. The most whp ever recorded on a gas 4cylinder with the small h1c was done on a KA24 nissan: 411whp. Since the big h1c has a 4mm larger inducer and the same turbine wheel as the hx35, it is safe to say that it flows enough for between 411whp and 500whp. The diesel sources state that it flows SLIGHTLY less than the early hx35. So 4lb/min less than the 8blade hx35 puts the flow of the big h1c at 48-49lb/min right where a 50-trim or 20g is. The small bep housing is all that's needed to get the most from the compressor and the spool speed is 20+psi by 3500rpms.
HX35-40 hybrid:
Keeping the long tradition of the marriage of sportcompact and hybrid turbos, there is the hx35 turbine and the hx40 compressor. It is strongly recommended to use the large bep turbine housing or the stock hx35 turbine housing with an non-divided t3 manifold for this turbo. The small bep housing around a t31 size hx35 turbine wheel is probably not enough to merit any of the hx40 compressor wheel upgrades. 20+ psi by 4000rpms can be seen in the hx35/40 with the hx35 12cm^2 turbine housing with a non-divided t3 manifold. With the large bep housing, spool times are to be determined. But likely similar.
HX40:
The 8blade hx40 has a 58mm inducer and flows about the same as a 60-1 (around 60lb/min) with ALOT better high boost efficiency and spool speed. It is the most common hx40 out there. The small bep housing with the hx40 turbine wheel is plenty to reach the full potential of the 60lb/min 8blade hx40 compressor. 20+ psi by 4100rpms with 272s.
The 7 and 6 blade hx40 is called the super40 and has the 60mm compressor inducer. This compressor flows around 69lb/min. You can get this wheel in billet style (think HTA). The non-billet wheel spools as fast as the 8blade hx40 in the bolton bep housing and has done 653whp at 40psi per the holset results only thread. Billet should spool even faster. The t3 .70 a/r BEP housing slows spool about 400rpms. But reports show a significant gain in flow per psi. So expect more power at lower boost with that turbine housing.
H1E/WH1E:
The Wh1e is like it's little brother the Wh1c. It mirrors the hx40 8blade in every way except that it has a v-band compressor cover and a 4bolt chra-turbinehousing pattern. It will consequently bolt into the hx40 bep bolton turbine housing and this is plenty of flow to max out its 60lb/min compressor.
The h1e is like it's little brother the h1c. There are different size compressors. . . BUT there are also different size turbine wheels too. Check measurements before buying this turbo if you plan on running a BEP turbine housing. There are lower flowing compressors than the 58mm 8blade that are out there. So this turbo may not flow any more than an hx35 if get the wrong one. You need at least a 58mm compressor inducer for this to be a worthwhile turbo vs the proven hx35 or 8blade hx40.
HX52:
This is a big sucker. It is commonly found on the Volvo Semis and usually has a billet compressor wheel. It flows 88lb/min. There is no bolt on housing for it. If you want a bolton housing for this turbo, then you don't want this turbo. In fact if you want a t3 flange turbine housing for this turbo, then you don't want this turbo. You DO want this turbo if you're looking at a gt4294r or gt4202r. The turbine inlet is slightly different than a t4 bolt pattern. You can still get the t4 manifold to work just fine by enlarging the bolt holes.
Damn, i actually had to sit down to read this. Cool info.
Wow so much good info it only seems like 1 or 2 of these could be useful, but maybe I am wrong.
For a V-8, the Hx40, HX52's would be good, there all good turbo's just have to make sure there proper oil flow.
Thinking about building a kit like 02camaross, deff going with a on3 turbo 76mm with a 1.0 ar but I'm going to need to switch out my cam for a more boost friendly cam.
And suggestions on a new cam?
And is there anything bad about tapping the timing chain cover for a return?
I love my speed inc TU1 cam. Its 225/225 .581/.581 113lsa. Lopes good, has good low end torque and screams up top. I think tapping the front cover wouldnt be a bad idea as long as you make sure its thick enough to give you enough thread and you dont interfere with the chain or anything. Maybe think about welding a bung on it
After looking at your cam in your sig I would run it if it were me. Just make sure you have good dual springs. And if I can help you with anything just ask
I removed my oil level sensor in the pan and routed my return line into it. No issues here.
Thought my cam has to much over lap for a boost set up?Quote:
Originally Posted by o2camaross
My cam has a over lap of 3 degrees
you only have 3 degrees of overlap. Itll work very well