hrmm cool.
Printable View
hrmm cool.
Well I hope to be back home in a week or so but here is a list of what I picked up.
All of This came from AutoZone.
1) New Thermostat with housing P# 37987
2) Rear Seal for the Transmission P# 9613S
3) Gatorback Belt P#4060930
4) Fuel Filter P# FF3504
5) Map Sensor (Mine got broken) P# SU1078
6) New Exhaust Manifold Gaskets P# MS 92467
7) Flange gaskets P#’s 61089 61074
8) Radiator Hose Clamps P# KE28SS
9) Idler Pulley P# 231081
10) Radiator Hose P# XL 1215
11) Cold Air Intake P# 9900
12) Throttle Body Base Gasket P#61070
13) All 4 Bosch 02 Sensors P#’s 13026 13474
14) Idler Arm P# FA1379
15) Pitman Arm P# FA918
16) Inner Tie rod ends P#’s ES409R
17) Outer Tie rod ends P#’s ES409L
18) Tie Rod Adjusting sleeve P#’s ES2004S
19) A/C Evaporator core P# 6275N
Also purchased some from Rock Auto they have the same parts as local part house but a lot less money and fast shipping.
1) A/C Receiver Drier/ Accumulator P# 33183
2) A/C Refrigerant Hose P# 1955515
3) A/C Condenser P# 2083
Also I ordered the A/C adapters
docsblocks.com, PN AA2209($15) and AA2210($20)
I'm in Hurley. just south of TannerWilliamsQuote:
Originally Posted by pcmcobra
oh cool.. I know of that area.
And grew up south of Knoxville
Made some progress. Got the wires hooked up and she busted right off. Still will not run for more than about 2 seconds though the alternator is bad, But toss another one on there and it should be all good. But it is good to hear it run.
AWESOME! Are all the body panels back on it?
oh yea.. though I posted some pictures.. But i will look and see if not i will.
hey so its running! awesome! so how did u do the fuel lines at the tank?
I just used regular stainless steel clamps. got to thinking about it and someone said the pressure would not hold but the pump is installed to the sending unit with a hose clamps so why would it not work then? but i have had no problem with it at all.
just 10 ft' of line is a lot extra for each side but nice cause I can leave me tank on the ground and still have the lines hooked up. But I am going to trim them up and install the Summit fuel filter I ordered. Hope to pick up an alternator this weekend and then I have to finish a lot of small stuff. I also have to get a throttle cable, and the exhaust work done, it is a little loud with straight manifolds. But my Engine/transmission came out of an 02 suburban I had no problem getting the stock manifolds to fit they clear the frame really well. But I also have to hook up the transmission lines going to flare the line and adapt it down to my 1987 radiator. It looks like the power steering lines will interchange. I did have some problems tiring to find a booted seal for a 4L60E as that is what seems to be what is on the tail of the transmission. So I guess I will go with a regular non-booted seal. I also have to configure a way to attach the shift rod for the column shifter to the set up on the 4l60E might just try to get and adapter of some sort made. Or look see how the linkage is off of the 2002 truck.
If it starts and runs for a couple seconds and then dies, that is most likely the VATS/PASSKEY killing the engine so the vehicle can't be stolen. You need to have it disabled in the tune. :twocents:
Yep, yep.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
You can use the booted or non-booted seal. Seems rather random which ones got which. Oreilly's usually stocks both. Glad to see you are making good progress.
Well I already had it tuned and that was supposed of been removed. I assume it was. But I did have the alternator checked at 2 different part places and they both say bad it is only giving up about 4 amps. But one concern was running straight manifolds with no down pipe or anything so I built some brackets to bolt on to the manifold to restrict the flow some and that helped. But as soon as it runs I am going to go have exhaust work done from manifold back just have to pick out some mufflers.
Hey what are you doing abt your power steering?? Im using a whole set up out of a vette and the pump has only one hose coming out of it. Im kinda lost on what to do abt that?
i just used the pump from the engine and the pressure line fits pretty nicely to the 1987 steering unit. i am just going to hook up the other line but i think it will all work together. You may have to try to gut a truck pump.
ok the engine transmission and ecm all came from the same truck so everything matches but the security thing would be an issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
Yes, VAT/PASSKEY is related to the ignition key, switch, steering column and BCM sending the correct signal to the PCM.
Well no progress made over the past few months the Coast Guard has had me bouncing all over the map. But I am back in Tn. another 2 weeks and I can get back home and work on my truck some. I did get another computer for it as that seems to be why it will not stay running. Truck will fire run about 5-8 seconds and stumbles and falls if you try to accelerate it wants to stay alive but dies. I got the OBD2 port hooked up and it is reading codes for the drive by wire set up so I guess it was not properly deleted. The new computer is OEM for DBC, just have to get it tuned and maybe that will fix my problems.
well another ecm wont help if it hasnt had vats turned off either
that is the point of getting another one is so that i can have it done to this one and the ECM i just got is DBC where the other is DBW (I am running DBC throttle body now) the guy who tuned the one that matches the engine was going to delete all DBW and program all DBC or so he said he would. But the new ECM was free so nothing much lost.
I am needing a little help. I finally got back to working on my truck. I got it running, It will fire up run but will not Idele, as long as you stay in the throttle it will run. Here is the kicker, had no exhaust to speak of just down pipes. Will this engine run with out cats? I have OEM cats that were on it I just don't want to use them unless i have to. There are no emission laws here so no worries about that. I am gonna have full exhaust put on with maybe just some flowmaster 40's
yes these engines will run without exhaust. to me it sounds like a MAF problem or a low fuel pressure problem at idle.
Mine wouldnt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Venom
If the O2s are too close to the end of the pipe or getting fresh air in any way the motor will run like shit i.e. not idle.
ive ran motors with open heads in the dealership all the time after engine swaps and stuff. im not say urs didnt flattop just saying ive done it. my suggestion would be to hood the facotory headers up and if it works then buy some high slow maganflow cats or something.
Ya and people have told me you cant run these motors without a MAF (not including speed-density tuned setups) but Ive done it.
IF you think it is exhaust related then flash the memory on the pcm and unplug the O2s. This should eliminate that possibility. If it still does it then your problem is elsewhere. Plug in a good scanner to look at your codes, fuel trims, etc.
I know it don't help much but I started mine with only manifolds and no mass air hooked up yet. starts and idles and revs fine, though kinda loud. I don't have any 02 sensors hooked up yet so that should put into a closed loop mode, if you have yours hooked up that might be your issue.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/3793/dscf0829k.jpg
Hello everyone. I'm new to any kind of forum. I've done engine swaps b4 but never like this. I have a 1981 silverado LB. I'm doing a 305 to 1998 ls1/4l60e convert.This Is my truck .I think i've pretty much narrowed down the items i need for the switch however, I'm stumped on a few things. What about the gas pedal. Would I need the pedal from the donor vehical? I read that I would have to make a few linkage mods. A little clarity on this would be greatly appreciated. Much thnx for reading...
Been a while since I been here. Done a lot to the truck, got the body put back together, drove it around some. Runs ok I just need some help from the folks here.. The exhaust on the truck is down pipe with 02 sensors and catalytic converters installed but stops there. But truck will Idle great, in neutral if you give it throttle it sounds good but if you get it ½ throttle or much over idle and completely let off the throttle the truck will die but if you come down slow it will idle, put it in drive it will pull off like normal same deal with throttle if you apply enough throttle as to pull off at a decent speed it bogs bad let off it will go back to idle.. sometimes die. Attempt to try burn out it bogs bad and will die. The fuel pump is new the one I used was recommended by other members who have done the swap.
Just for kicks, what's your fuel pressure at the rail when this happens?
Nice!
I dont have a guage on it (Yet) but the fuel pump burnt up... Was a new pump i dont know, but i got an aluminum fuel cell to go in the bed and gonna put an inline pump in.
no but i changed the throttle body and it made a huge difference. now it just is kinda high at idle, but i think the idle air control valve is bad looks like it might of been bent some. Got to figure out how to hook up the OBD2 Port i believe the orange is the ign hot wire, there are two black weirs i guess there ground? matter where they ground to truck or battery? and the purple wire is the wire for the OBD2 wire coming out of the harness. I just cant get the OBD2 code reader to read anything. ign on and both black wires tied together and hooked to good ground.
OK got the OBD2 port hooked up and working right. The code it is showing comes up to PO1022. I changed the TPS didn't help. Truck Idles great. but if you try to get into it it still bogs. this engine and computer was DBW now I am using a DBC Throttle body and the computer has been tuned. the exhaust is down pipes and cats. stops right next to the transmission, could it be lack of back pressure or loss of when u throttle up fast?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87OldYeller
I just looked at my master OBD DTC list. It's a little old (2005), but it does not show that code. Here is what I find for DBC codes. Can you confirm the code? What model year is the engine, and more importantly, what model year is the "tune"? You might have a bad wire, which would explain why a TPS change didn't fix it.
Check for vacuum leaks, check to make sure your MAF is working right too. Open exhaust after the O2's won't cause that big of a stumble, but the PCM not knowing where the throttle angle is at can certainly cause it. Same with a bad MAF reading.
P1120Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1 CircuitP1121Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High VoltageP1122Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
Well I have gotton alot done. drove the truck some the other day runs great. One proble I did not have the TCC wire hooked up.. but now I am just looking for an inline pump that has been used on this engine that will support PSI needs.. will try to get up a video soon.
Aeromotive makes a nice inline pump. I believe Walbro makes an inline as well. You'll want to use a vette style regulator/filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by 87OldYeller