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LMAOnade, you want to talk about the little things making you miserable. . .this is my fiance's truck :lol: I absolutely have to get the gas gauge to work. I have a 99 Z28 I'm parting out, so I'm going to use those O2 sensors, considering they should be the same as the 5.3
Tonight I finish with the fan controller and other little things that I can think of, then exhaust goes on the end of this week, and it will be ready for road testing to my knowledge
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Originally Posted by oneBADDz
by far the best part... i was so excited to test mine out. it goes good even without the 4:56 gears. got 4 gears of rubber... BUT the driveline angle is messed and i need to shim my rear end and change my drive shaft to the 4l60e model. it fits 100% perfect in my t-56 same yoke and rear u joints and everything. im picking one up friday for 125$. the shims came yesterday and my 4:56s and auburn go in on saturday. so HOPEFULLY i can actually drive it without blowing u joints and dropping my drive shaft for the 3rd time...
what drive shaft did you end up using with the t56?Quote:
Originally Posted by Wtfan18
What if I told you guys that your gas gauge will work again???????
I know how to do it with the stock pcm still aboard, and I'm going to test in the morning to see if guys not running the stock pcm need a relay or not.
Tell me right now before I go ape. :lol: Let US KNOW!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by oneBADDz
Also I did get new o2 sensors, and I don't have ABS because I don't have the stock PCM on board.
Do you still have the stock harness with it's connectors even though you don't have the pcm? On my 98, the pin locations didn't match the pin-outs for some reason, but you have to connect the wires from pins 9 and 16 on C1 for the fuel gauge to work again if your matches the diagrams. If one of the wires is missing it should be a ground and you will grond the other wire for the gauge to work.
Mind taking pictures? Thanks for the infoQuote:
Originally Posted by oneBADDz
I will gladly take some pics. It will be at least the weekend though, as I have alot going on and my shop isn't at my house. What part do you need more info on/pics of?
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Originally Posted by oneBADDz
okay so i removed all the stock harness plugs that weren't being used BUT i left all the plugs that go into the stock PCM the 4, red blue black and gree in think the other is... which is the C1? and will i have to put the old pcm back in aswell???
I don't know if nelson left the stock harness in, ill have to ask him. im dropping the truck off with them this weekend for some fixing, ill let him know bout this thread.
well at first i cut mine and had it welded etc etc BUT my driveline angle was wrong and i melted the bearings in the rear u joint so the drive shaft came loose smashed my corsa and dented the shaft in 2 places... so it started vibrating blah blah so my dad has a SBRC 1998 c-1500 just like mine BUT its a 4.3 auto with a 4l60e which the yoke actually fits the t-56 aswell. and the 4l60e is longer than the ngv3500(my old 5 speed) so the shaft was shorter and fit 100% PERFECT so i bought the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by duckysbht
shaft was from a 98 c-1500 SBRC 2wd 4.3 with auto tranny. its held up so far and i fixed my pinion angle so hopefully no more drive shaft blowouts.
that sucks all that **** went wrong, but sweet you didnt have to buy or get your shaft custom madeQuote:
Originally Posted by Wtfan18
It's still in the exhaust shop, but as soon as it comes out I'll get pics, with exact pin locations and wire colors with some pics for you guys with the gas gauge issue.
Someone want to tell me what to hook where to get cruise control back?
my gas gauge is working now, but when i accelerate the needle will go down, an when i let off it will go back up..
Thats because all the gas is sloshing to the rear of the tank.
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Originally Posted by ChevyLee
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Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
Doesnt that have to do with the float as well?
Good deal, did my original information help at all, or did it just spur you to figure it out a different way? I would like to know your approach, as I don't explain it very wellQuote:
Originally Posted by ChevyLee
are you using the stock PCM or just the new one? mine is still not working and i havent attempted to finish it... i would love to fix it without putting the old pcm back in aswell... so i would still love you to post up how you did yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by oneBADDz
Jon did mine from nelson performance, they used the stock pcm.. as far as i know if you change the 98 sending unit out, an put in the 97 the gas gauge should work....
i would do the 97 sending unit but i just put a new one in my truck 2 weeks ago lol and tired of lifting up the dam bed
i second that.... i dont feel like pulling my bed back and changing stuff around. nor do i want to use the old pcm i have no room for it. everything is stuffed on the driver's side in my truck. and i literally would have to fab something to put it anywheres... it sounds as though badz has an alternative to using the stock pcm.Quote:
Originally Posted by beater6.0
I have not tested it without the stock pcm. I plan to test it without the stock pcm, as it should just be a matter of a) connecting the two pins in question if they are both the same polarity or b) using a relay to provide the alternate signal from one wire to the other if they are not the same polarity. I planned to test that before and just ran out of time cause I wanted to put some miles on it before the exhaust shop got it so I would know they wouldn't have issues if they needed to drive it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wtfan18
No one can tell me what to do for my cruise control? I'm sure I can trace it out when I get it back if I need to
well i spliced in the wires for the gas gauge pcm it reach in the cab and then im going to mount it under the seat. until it takes a crap then im going to put in the 97 sending unit. one bad r u running a drive by cable or wire
so essentially just putting a 97 vortec 350 sending unit in will make it all work perfect?? and nothing else has to change?
thats what i came up with
well let me know what you come up with. if you change it.
I agree with beater 6.0 :)
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Nitrous 07-24-2008, 04:45 PM
Ok guys, this has been driving me crazy. What I've come up with is you need to put a 96/97 fuel pump and sending unit in your tank or install some type of resistor in line. In 98 the fuel pump and sending unit changed and that's when they started sending the signal through the PCM. If I can find out the proper resisitor I'll post it. I'm thinking a 100 ohm to start out with. The 98-2000 cluster work fine in the 96/97's with no modifications so it has to be the sending unit and fuel pump assembly.
Cant get my cruse to work either LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
but the cable finally reaches to the throttle body. before it was to short, not letting it close all the way.
wow some one agrees with me lol ive been meaning to ohm the output but have been busy. reading this site all week lol
On the ABS brake module function, its not neccessary to retain the old V-6 computer. Simply find the ABS signal pinout & connect it to the white signal wire coming out of the ABS module & it will work as factory.
However, the author competently created!