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Too bad they don't have a way to fog the top end cleaner in through the throttle body opening. From the oil coked buildup I have seen in F-body intakes, there is a need of some way to do it. When I have the intake off I always steam clean them on the inside to get all the nasty crap out that is brought in through the PCV intake.
He said it was GM top end cleaner from the dealership, $6 for the bottle i think.
Chris
3M top engine clean works just this way. We were under contract with them for 2 years. I swear its the best on the market. NAPA used to sell it. The problem is there is a special quick connect tool that taps the can, witch is under pressure. It does not come with the kit :thumbdown: So beware if you buy this kit to do it yourself.Quote:
Originally posted by RedHeartbeat@Nov 7 2005, 09:25 AM
Too bad they don't have a way to fog the top end cleaner in through the throttle body opening. From the oil coked buildup I have seen in F-body intakes, there is a need of some way to do it. When I have the intake off I always steam clean them on the inside to get all the nasty crap out that is brought in through the PCV intake.
I do have an extra one if someone is really interested.
Our new kits just use a IV bottle with a valve to control flow. (fast drip almost running, rpms about 2k) There needs to be a T Valve inline to let air in so it atomizes. You could easily make this yourself and run your cleaner of choice through any vacumm line. I prefer the PVC but the brake booster line is the lazy way to do it.
Bad thing about going through the brake booster is that the rear end of the engine gets nice and clean but the front end probably won't get even dusted.
:thumb:Quote:
Originally posted by chrisj6@Nov 7 2005, 09:59 AM
He said it was GM top end cleaner from the dealership, $6 for the bottle i think.
Chris
:rofl: you got that right. Thats why I like that 3M kit so much. Its designed to fit between the TB and air duct. With the IV bottle the hose is so soft and big, You either get no flow or the truck wont run trying to do it that way.Quote:
Originally posted by RedHeartbeat@Nov 7 2005, 09:39 PM
Bad thing about going through the brake booster is that the rear end of the engine gets nice and clean but the front end probably won't get even dusted.
I guess You could always unplug the MAF and put the truck into Speed Density to get the best coverage with the IV bottle running through the TB. You would have to be able to clear the codes when your done as it will set 3 MAF codes and mabey even a radom missfire to boot. Just a thought
Could always add it through the PCV inlet since it's the bastard that got it dirty in the first place. Every place it went originally should be easily traced.
I agree via the pcv is next best way and if your lucky you local repair shop will at least do it through your PCV and not the main vacumm line. Either way is considered incorect by the manufactures of these products.
One preferred engine-cleaning method for an automobile engine involves first identifying a suitable vacuum port in communication with the intake manifold for application of the engine cleaner composition. The vacuum port should preferably provide a steady source of vacuum and should preferably be located downstream (but as close as possible) to the throttle plate. Ideally, the vacuum port should not be a restricted vacuum source or a "T" connect into a vacuum source. Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, positive crankcase ventilation (PCV), and brake booster vacuum ports should also preferably be avoided. In many engines, for example, application of the engine cleaner through the PCV or brake booster vacuum port may result in distribution of the engine cleaner to less than all of the engines cylinders. Preferably, the vacuum port source should provide a vacuum of about 16 inches of Hg or greater, more preferably about 18 to 22 inches of Hg. In determining whether a proper vacuum port has been located a vacuum gauge may be useful.
Sorry im getting alittle of topic here arent I :nutz: