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Thanks everyone for all the help and tips during this conversion. I got the pedal welded up and installed. I also removed the old cruise control unit and relocated the TAC module to it location. Still awaiting the motor mounts which shoud be here tomorrow and then I can move on to getting the motor in and positioned correctly then start routing the harness.
Good work, nice job on the engine bay!
I am interested in how to keep cruise control, I am doing a swap into a 2 door 98 model tahoe 2 wheel drive soon, I will be doing a drive by cable setup, anyone have any suggestions?? Sorry to hijack the thread somewhat
Thanks and do worry about the question, it is something that I need to know as well. I need to know how to integrate the cruise controls on the steering column with this TAC module.
Ok, it's been a year now since I have posted on this thread. My budget and build/conversion came to a screaming stop last February when I had to give $1400 of it to my dog's vet bill. It's that time of the year to get back to business. I had a busy and productive day yesterday. Here is how the truck has been sitting for the past year in my garage.
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The motor and transmission are in with the dirty dingo adjustable mounts. It fought a little trying to squeeze over the clamshells, but I won in the end. I had to remove the control arms to get the V8 mounts in place of the old 4.3 mounts.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...ps719742aa.jpg
Got a brand new 05' Silverado radiator and fans for a great price.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...ps180e757f.jpg
Had to trim and drill holes in the core support so the radiator could drop in seat flush. The rear portion had to be trimmed off so the fans could seat in the holding slots on the radiator.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...ps92d6a5a8.jpg
Here it is with bungee cords hold it so I can start fabricating a bracket.
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I took a narrow piece of stainless and bent it up to align with the mount holes on the radiator. Once all of the the bends were correct, I used it to made a large support that spanned 40 1/2", which is the width of the radiator.
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Here it is with both the radiator and fans installed. I welded the nuts to the inside of the flange to make a permanent nutplate for easy and quick install/removal.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6a4c6162.jpg
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...psec3c8dc5.jpg
Now I attempted to tackle this devil again......wiring. I had originally planned to used the factory under hood fuse box, but after many incidents of confusing myself, I decided to abandon the plan and thin the harness like LT1Swap.com tells me to.
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Here is the original and destroyed 4.3 harness.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8ab863e4.jpg
I decided to mount the computer before finishing up the harness. I am putting it where the factory air box use to attach to the fender. I bent the flanges flat and welded them a piece of steel that I cut to fit the computer. I applied some extra time epoxy and bonded it to the computer.
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And here it is mounted in place.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...pseee52f51.jpg
Now that that is mounted in place, I started to run my wires. This was very difficult for me because I dropped my harness when crawling into the engine bay and my nice coil job became a tangled mess. I got it sorted out mostly. Still needs some TLC.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...psa8e648bc.jpg
I am going post some questioned later today after I finish up in the garage about graphing the tagged and labeled ends of my harness into the truck. Thanks for looking and any help in advance.
B. E. A utifull. Just make sure its cooled off before you try and poke the exhaust every night... at least I would any way :LOL:
You could leave the wires like that, and it would still look more at home than the TBI motor lol
Thanks brother, I am happy so far with the progress, even though it's much slower than I originally wanted. On my other post I said I found a pinout for the cluster gauge to help take the guess work out of guessing which wire controls what gauge. This covers the clusters for both 91-prior and 92-up.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...pscfbd1bb6.jpg
I also after messing up my water pump trying to tap it like a lot of people recommend (hole had substructure casting that interfered with fit), I figured out that I can take the factory sending unit and put it in the lathe and turn it down to 11.96 MM and then thread it to M12X1.5 to fit the factory bolt plug on the rear side of the passenger head. $58 learning lesson for the better though.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...ps20a0a3f7.jpg
I still have a question about a wire left over from my gas pedal lead wires to the Tac module. One is a pink power wire, which I can figure out, but the other is a light blue wire that went to the C200 under hood fuse connector which states A10 L-BU 1320 CHMSL Supply Voltage/Stop Lamp Supply Voltage (KUP).......... What do I do with this wire? Also does anyone have the pinout for the 94'ish C100 pinout and the factory cruise connector pinout?
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http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...pse5203153.jpg
I would like to thank everyone on this forum that has helped me up to this point. I still have a little ways to to go, but everyone's input has been nothing but beneficial so far. Thank you all.
Have you surfed the lt1swap.com. it has all you need to know on cruise control and if that blue wire stays or goes.
+1 to lt1, he emailed back on that question,but did not mention anything about that wire. His website has been my wiring guide through this entire project.
Found it .Stop Lamp Supply Voltage - This wire should be hooked to the same wire that feeds you're brake lights 12v+ when you press on the brake pedal. THIS IS NOT THE SAME WIRE AS TCC BRAKE SWITCH THAT THE PCM USES TO UNLOCK TORQUE CONVERTER.