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I want it to be "stock" I need all the lights whipers and everything to work...I am going with autometer gauges to make it work better, but I want the dash swithes to work...I may make a few other changes when I order the wiring harness, but those are "top secret"
and by top secret I mean I am planning on converting to DRLs and switching the light switches over to to open and arm switches :devil:
Docgreen9...I have a question about the photo on your website of your fuel tank. There are four(4) rigid steel tube supply lines coming out of the top. From largest to smallest...Are they: Large fuel vent line(goes to fuel fill), 3/8" fuel supply line, 5/16" fuel return line, and last...small vent line that goes to charcoal cannister(?) Which of these is correct/incorrect, do I have the sizes correct, what type of brass piece/adapter do you start with, that's threaded into the brass hex adapter? Thanks...I'm enjoying the learning process of this whole thing, it's half the battle. This site is a great source of LS1 swap info! Gar
I"m in the process right now . I have a 94 half ton short bed and I've never done anything like this before. What I couldn't do , I've outsourced. I sent my harness off to a guy in PA at LT1350.com and he's grafting the two harnesses together for $600. I think it's well worth it . He says everything will work when I plug it in and he's relocating the A/C plug up to the top where the compressor will be a la the compressor and relocation bracket from S and P . According to this guy , his name is Dana , I don't even have to move my sending units from my old 4.3. And he claims no computer burning is necessary . With the engine mount relocators from S and P this engine dropped right in and my drive shaft still works , although it could be about and inch and a half longer , but I've been told it still won't come out . I did have to use the mount adaptors upside down from what they said , though . I also had to adjust the trans mount crossmember just slightly by drilling . I had to get my fuel supply line altered at a local shop for about $20 and I'm planning on using my old fuel return line as the evap line for the Ls1 , which is a 98 model . If anyone who knows more about this than I do sees anything wrong with what I' m saying , please chime in !! I still don't know if my fuel system is going to work . I put a fuel pump in my tank that S and P said to use , they called it a EP or SP 241 so that's what I got .It fit right into my float assem. It puts out about 55 PSI . My understanding is that the fuel regulator is on the fuel rail but on this engine there is no vacuum line or electrical line going to this device. Does anyone know if this is going to be a problem ? I trimmed up the stock radiator shroud with a jigsaw and installed a 16 inch electric fan for $75 from autozone. The transmission lines and power steering lines were almost in perfect alignment . I've yet to order headers because I don't know which one's to get but OnyxSilverado says he used the ones for a 5.3 (shorties) from Summit . I'll have to post a picture of my Rube Goldberg exhaust system ! I actually used the
Transam Y pipe after some trimming and some flex pipe . I'm not going to fire this beast up with open pipes ! It's just a temporary solution to get the truck going and down to an exhaust shop . I spent about $25 to rig it up for now . Anyway , that's where I'm at with it . I put this engine in last weekend and if I get my harness by Monday , I'm expecting to try to start her up . Keep yall's fingers crossed for me and I'll keep you posted .
I cut the fuel lines at the old fuel filter location and grafted in a late model corvette fuel filter, WIX 33737, in it's place. You'll need a piece of 3/8" and 5/16" fuel injection quality line to tie the filter to the stock lines. I used two clamps on each end of the line for a total of eight clamps. Get fuel hose fittings for the outlet side of the filter from your local auto part store such as PepBoys or Oriellys. Use 3/8" fuel injection quality rubber hose from the filter to the fuel rail. Quick, cheap and simple. The fuel filter has a built in regulator that will be proper for your setup.
I am assuming you have the single inlet fuel rail and not a 97 style that had an dual outlet fuel rail.
The motor mounts being upside down is common for the V6-LS1 conversion. The instructions were for a V8 conversion.
Sounds like your heading in the right direction. S&P makes a nice set if headers if you're interested. Their G-body set is supposed to fit nicely in the OBS trucks.
So are you saying that the regulator that 's on my fuel rail isn't going to work ?Will it even run with the setup I have now ? I haven't been able to find a manual for a 98 TransAm at any of the parts stores so that I can identify the various things on this engine that I don't know . Guess I'll have to get one through Amazon . Sorry about your truck . Any word on that ? Thanks
No news on the missing truck so far. It's either in Mexico or stashed until the heat is off.
Is your fuel rail the single inlet type or does it have two inlets?
It's just the one inlet . It's a 98 year engine .
You won't need a regulator if you use the corvette fuel filter. It has the regulator built into the filter. You get a new regulator with each new filter you buy. You can't beat that for value. It's not adjustable but it does exactly what it's supposed to do. The only reason to use an adjustable regulator is if you are trying to override what the PCM is doing for you. Just keeping the pressure as the factory designed is all you have to do and the PCM will handle the rest. The vacuum signaled regulators of the past are not needed on a NA motor. You could use one on a turbo motor to boost the fuel pressure under boost to richen the fuel ratio but that's not necessary in a stock type configuration. Just cut the pressure and return lines at the stock filter location and install the WIX filter.
LS1GMCtruck , yes you are correct on those fuel lines on my tank. The largest one is for the fuel fill vent, then next from right to left is the supply line ( 3/8" ) then the return ( 5/16" ), and then the vent hose for the charcoal canister. The charcoal hose I actually hooked directly up to the canister purge solenoid on the top of the intake on my 04 motor and did away with the canister. Sorry it took so long to give you an answer I've been under the weather past couple days. :puke:
Docgreen9...Cool! Thanks for the info! LS1GMCTruck (Gar) :cool: