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I was talkin bout the drive shaft bein the right length between the new tranny and rear end. I didn't even think about the u-joints matchin up. I hope there isn't much of an issue there.
The shop where I am doin the swap has a huge post lift so it will make it easier to do a lot of things like change the FP.
I just bought two new o2 sensors for an '02 tahoe with flex 5.3 which is where motor/harness/ECM came from so I hope it works.
I am using DBW and I have all the matching components for it to work (atleast I think so)
I bought a flexplate and spacer from a 6.0/4l80e setup and I hope the current bolts will work.
I bought the S&P CTS adapter for the passenger side head. Also bought the S&P oil cooler blockoff plate that is already tapped for my 5.7 oil pressure sending unit.
I guess I got the cam kit. I bought a gasket set that had the water pump gaskets, front cover gasket, and front cover seal (main seal?).
My buddy from the local stealership is grabbin me a new crank bolt.
Bring on the questions, I'd like to make sure i've got all my ducks in a row.
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i think the d shaft will be right but theres a u joint that allows you to use tge 80E yoke
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Can this u joint be found at a laps?
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i have no idea talk to a transmisson place or a parts place
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Hey man the O'reileys across from Smith Chevrolet has the fuel rail fitting you need, be better than having to wait for it in the mail. I saw one of your post over on FSC.com and recognized your truck, you use to work at the casino right?
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Thanks man. I finally did find the fittings I need at the oreilleys near barling. Seemed pretty simple to me but for some reason no one at the store knew what I was talkin bout at first.
Ya, I worked at the casino for almost a year and a half. Truck looks much different now. It's been lowered more and doesn't have the flame paint job anymore. It's currently primer black. It actually looks pretty good for primer since it was done with a gun and not rattle can. I'll post pics later tonight.
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Got some things done today. The 350/700r4 are out and sitting next to the truck. Took longer than I thought and some things were a PITA to get undone but its out. Some say its harder to get the old stuff out than it is to put the new stuff in - at this point I really hope they are right.
Noticed a couple things that raised some questions:
1. The shift linkage rod comes straight off the frame to the tranny. If the 4l80e linkage isnt in the exact same location then I dont think it will line up and if it doesnt how do I fix that?
2. Im gonna need a different U-joint to match my current driveshaft to the 80e yoke. (just like keniff said). Do they make a joint like this?
3.What do I do with all these wires?!?!?!
I did A LOT of research on this swap and for some reason I never realized how much I would have to rip through the 5.7 harness. I was a bit overwhelmed when I realized what I am gonna have to do. Find all the wires I dont need and cut them at the firewall. Leave the 4-5 wires I need still in the truck. Its gonna take a lot of time to weed through the harness wire by wire. Anyone have any tips or diagrams or colors that will show me a quick way to fix up this harness? What makes it a little harder is that I already have the injection system sold to a buddy who wants to upgrade from carbueration so I cant just hack everything up.
Anyway, got some pics:
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01499.jpg
It was rainin and cold outside so I just got some crappy pics of the truck inside the shop. Anyway, this is the recipient.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01502.jpg
Its just black primer. Still needs more body work. Paint will come when the drivetrain is situated.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/922414a8.jpg
A pic I took a while back.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01516.jpg
The 5.3
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01517.jpg
That plus a harness and ecm cost me $450
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01508.jpg
Mount adapter plates $45
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01509.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01515.jpg
Walbro 255 fuel pump and wiring from Racetronix $130
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01511.jpg
Schoenfeld swap headers $250 (will be coated before installation)
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC01504.jpg
Sensor adapters from S&P. Coolant temp sensor on left $18. Oil pressure sensor blockoff plate on right $34.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1020.jpg
This old stuff has got to go...
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1022.jpg
My buddy Ed helping me out (in the gray shirt). Very knowledgable and helpful guy. He is the service manager at a local GM service center.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1026.jpg
Almost..
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1028.jpg
And its out!
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1031.jpg
Gross and scary
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1032.jpg
What are all these and what stays and what goes?!
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_1033.jpg
One of the firewall plugs....
Tomorrow is another day of working on it. Im gonna try to separate the harness as well as change the fuel pump and setup the lines.
I noticed there are two firewall plugs. One near the brake booster and on under the ac evaporator. Anyone know exactly what wires(color) I can keep that might keep me from tracing each wire by wire?
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for the slip yoke there are conversion ujoints, it all depends on which joints you have on the shaft. If they're 1310(1.062") they have one to go to a 1330(1.125") and if you have 1330 then they have one that goes to a 1350(1.187") diameter ujoint cap. There are two size TH400 slip yokes available, 1330 and 1350 sizes.
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If you need a shift kit for that 80e ive got one in the for sale section
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Thanks Red, I'll take the 80e yoke and the drive shaft up to my LAPS and we'll figure it out.
Warlock, thanks for the offer but I think it's kinda late now, this tranny is goin in before the end of the week.
Ok I've got the pump assembly out and I'm lookin at it and all the wiring looks good. Little to no corrosion or fraying. Doesn't look much different than the wiring that came with my kit. Do I really need to change out the wiring? Could I just swap the pumps and filters and throw it back in?
