Its an ex cab LT 2wd... 3600 Yank BUilt 4l60, Ls6,Blower cam, pro flow intake with truc trac and 4.10 gear NOTHING is taken off 5200??? It has leather,headed seats and the worxQuote:
Originally Posted by Sleaper
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Its an ex cab LT 2wd... 3600 Yank BUilt 4l60, Ls6,Blower cam, pro flow intake with truc trac and 4.10 gear NOTHING is taken off 5200??? It has leather,headed seats and the worxQuote:
Originally Posted by Sleaper
Nice! Sounds like there is a 60e that has survived. I'll agree that there are other factors that lead to the demise of a trans.... Would you take a built 60e over an 80e if cost wasn't a factor? Just curious...Quote:
Originally Posted by casey23
IDK if i can awnser that question... I HAD everything to build a bullet proof 4l60 even with a transbrake... but when i bought my motor it came with a 4l80 trans swap for near free.... so i went that route... so when it was my choice i went to an 80e .. not that i am really happy with it... I built this truck for a Great buddy of mine with a 4l60. My goal with his truck has been 11s... he doesnt seem to think thats possible after looking threw the boards. After building it and adjusting the tune on the street the very first pass was 13.60... by the end of the day truck went 13.1X on the motor.... nothing taken off and still easy tune ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleaper
Proof right there that the 80 is better!! lol j/kQuote:
Originally Posted by casey23
I see alot of hotrod trucks with good power..... all between 12.80-13.20 with 4l80 swaps.. so i built something with same power but with a 4l60 and it runs 11s?? Your right.. what a simple choice ! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleaper
I suggest you go for the 4L80E route...
Guessing you make what....500 TQ to the flywheel? and moving ur weigth with those big tires.......
You Can build billet the 60e all you want, but then, a mid build 80e probably will cost u around the same. ur not drag racing with those tires, so the 60 lbs plus of the 80e will come no offence to ur truck.
Peace of mind for ur truck will be a 80e....or then a mid build 60e totally tunned to nanny shift, pull time for each gear change, and manage torque better than GM technicians to make it live...a while !
I have a good friend of mine that build billet parts at Astoria, NY.
He can give u some ins and outs and a good light for ur application. Not an amateur wanting to be tuner or mechanic, just a good tech who builds and redesign a few things.
Chris Kokkonis at 6312181048....give him a call before you make any decision based on us wise guys !
Don't even mess with the 65e. Go 80e, no doubt. You are lifted with larger tires. That alone on a stock motor will do harm. Spend a few more hundred bucks now and save thousands later. Trust!
I would personally take a STOCK 80E over a fully built 60E for our trucks.
X2, I'm on my fourth 60/65E. When this one goes, I might get it fixed one more time, but after that I'm going to an 80E.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleaper
I just rebuilt mine by myself in my high school auto tech class with not much help from the teacher. All you need is a good pair of snap ring pliers and a spring compressor and the ATSG books. No other specialty tools needed really. Contact Dana at Pro Built Automatics (700R4 & 4L60E Automatic transmissions specialists - ProBuilt) and he'll give you what you need. I did mine for $920, TC and $200 dollars worth of fluid included and I love it! He said its good up to 650HP and its held up for 8,000 miles so far and I drive the PISS outta mine. Every stop light is a drag launch :D All the same stuff thats in my tranny is in his mid 9 second f-body with 3000 passes on it so far.