bearing/hub assembly replacement

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Originally Posted by Marcus

I'm assuming he meant the opposite. Driver's side is harder...on a four wheel drive the axle is real short and doesn't allow for as much "give". Otherwise idk. Plan on tight bolts and a breaker bar.

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Yeah, whoops--there goes my dyslexia again... :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PitchBlackC3

The axles are the same left and right, I can't think of any reason one side would be harder than the other.

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The driver's side is a little tougher because:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marcus

...on a four wheel drive the axle is real short and doesn't allow for as much "give"...

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:chevy:

just installed the new hub assembly...everything went smooth...and for the first time it took me bout 45 minutes...lol..put everything on and went to put the rotor on...guess what?....put the vent/cooling shield on backwards...sooooo it ended up coming off again...could do it in my sleep now...thank you fellow members on the insight and help to get me through this!!!


thank you
trevor

Could you tell the difference between the two sides? My truck has a wobble at about 55 to 70 and it feels like it is coming from the pass side front. Is this the feeling that you had? can you put in the air and rule out anything?
Thanks,
Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flynn78us

Could you tell the difference between the two sides? My truck has a wobble at about 55 to 70 and it feels like it is coming from the pass side front. Is this the feeling that you had? can you put in the air and rule out anything?
Thanks,
Mike

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Get the wheel or wheels off the ground and try to feel play front a top/bottom fashion. If you do have play the rotor is reference to narrow out balljoints from there.

Edit: ABS lights are an indication along with visible leaks on the inside of the spindle. Also if you hear the grind the direction you turn to rid the noise is the culprit.

yes....before it would feel like the truck would float down the road..and a wobble at high speeds..like over 65 mph...thought my ball joints were goin bad or the idler arm...but anyways right before i started the install a grinding noise had started followed by a squeel...to answer your question yes....big difference night and day...and easy to do...

Trevor

Start with the tires, if the front end is wobbling that much it sounds like bent or broken belts, maybe a bent rim. Pay the extra to get the front tires road force balanced. I would jack each corner up and put an indicator on the rim to see how much side to side deflection you're getting on the rim. 4x4s are the worst about bending a rim because you never really feel how hard you've hit soft mud or dirt.

ive vhecked that over and over.....even thou my truck is 4wd...it has never seen any mud...dont ask what i was thinkin when i bought it...everything is in good shape...and new tires all around..

trevor

those huge honking wheels, it doesn't take much out of round or side to side motion to really get the front end rocking. I test drove a 2006 that had 24s on it and it would shimmy real hard though there was no visible damage on the rims and the tires looked new. To say the least I ran away from that truck in a hurry. :laugh:

I am about to rotate mine to see if it rules out wheels/tires. Getting new uppers today also.

Guess I should snap new pics. Them rims and tires have only been on there for a total of 300 miles max. Don't like the way they looked. Went back to the stock steelys. Looks better with the minor drop.

Trevor