Transmission troubles

I was sick during my days off last week and didn't get a chance to look at my truck. I bought a multimeter from Sears, so at least I have one now. Figuring out exactly how to use it will be another thing entirely :argg:

I also found a Service/Repair manual on DVD on eBay. This should have all the info I need. I don't even have a Chilton's at the moment >.< The DVD won't be here in time for my days off this week, so the truck will have to wait another week before I start trying to troubleshoot.

So, in order, this is the plan I guess....

1. Test wiring
2. Replace solenoids
3. Ignition switch if needed

Sound good?

+1 for ignition switch. Common issue. Could be wrong here, but you're looking for easy advice. Seen alot of this.

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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71

+1 for ignition switch. Common issue. Could be wrong here, but you're looking for easy advice. Seen alot of this.

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Yep, received the Service Information DVD I bought from eBay and just found a Bulletin about my exact problem.

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, Instrumend Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch) #01-07-30-002D - (Oct 19, 2004)

This DVD looks pretty nice. Appears to be an actual dealership reference DVD, covers all Chevy models from 1998-2005. Skips some detailed steps in the repair procedures, but then again it's intended for Technicians. Has some nice exploded diagrams. This should be all I need.

It's referencing a special tool to remove the ignition switch, however.....J42759. I'll see if I can dig one up.

The DTC list on this DVD has much more specific info than the generic code list I found online and referenced in my first post.

Time to stop typing and get to fixin'.

BTW, cluster going dead from an ignition switch failure is only related to some of the gauges and only usually on 2002 and older back to 95 FWIW.

Yeah, my truck is still down heh. Things came up and I had zero cash for about a month. I finally got the ignition switch replaced today, it took me a long time (started on my day off last week) because I ripped out the old POS alarm/remote start I had installed years ago at the same time.

After a quick test drive it didn't fix the transmission problems, but it needed to be replaced anyway as that failed as well while my truck was sitting. That stupid alarm was spidered into the ignition harness everywhere, and probably caused the failure.

So, next on the agenda for tomorrow and Thursday is to replace the 2-3 shift solenoid and fluid/filter. I just turned 40K on the truck and have never done fluid/filter so it's past due anyway. I'll visually check the connectors first when I crawl under it, but I doubt I'll find anything.

Just an update for anyone interested.

Plus, while I still have my dash torn apart, I figure I might as well remove my door panels and replace my speakers. The speakers in my front doors have been blown for over a year (they technically still "work" but sound like crap), and I got replacements for all 4 doors while I was at it. I figure I'd better do it now or I'll never get around to it.

I got Critical Mass RS6 coaxials for the rear doors and a C652 component set for the front doors. I had plans to upgrade my amps as well, but no money. Still, these are more efficient than the Alpines I'm taking out so they should give me the sound I'm looking for. My current amp for my doors is only 75WX4, nowhere close to the power rating of the speakers so I shouldn't have to worry about blowing them again.

Finally getting around to dropping the pan, and the pan won't drop because the shift cable bracket is holding it up.

Through some digging, I found that the size bit needed for these bolts is T40, and apparently they're a real PITA, very tight. I have to go to work, no more time to mess with it for today.

Anyone have a trick for removing these bolts? The resource I found claims there's two, but I only feel one with my fingers. There's not much room to work with up there, and any trick which might help me would be appreciated. I'm not thinking very highly about this design on Chevy's part at this point.

In contrast, door panel removal is a relative stroke of genius compared to this.

I Think The Input Housing (3-4) Is Smoked And Over Worked The Solenoid. I Do These Allllll Day Long Man Time To Swap For A 80e

The shift cable bracket is a pita, no doubt, there are two bolts up there. If you can get a dentist style mirror up in there you can see what your working with. These strip out easy if your not going at it squarely, be careful!!!!!!! 3/8" ratchet and some elbow grease! :)

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Originally Posted by Next Level

The shift cable bracket is a pita, no doubt, there are two bolts up there. If you can get a dentist style mirror up in there you can see what your working with. These strip out easy if your not going at it squarely, be careful!!!!!!! 3/8" ratchet and some elbow grease! :)

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Thanks for the input! Yeah, Torx bolts require the ratchet to always be as close to 90 degrees as possible or you'll strip the little suckers for sure. I've damaged Torx bolts before, but never quite to the point I couldn't get 'em out somehow.

A guy at work that does some part-time mechanicing on the side advised me to just use a beefy screwdriver and bend the bracket out of the way to drop the pan and bend it back when the pan is re-installed.

This worked for me with a bare minimum of trouble. I got the pan past the bracket using a 12" pry bar, but was still unable to completely drop it due to contact with the Y-pipe crossover. Sonofa!!! I'd roughly estimate I need another 1/8" - 1/4" of clearance to clear the valve body and be able to remove the pan. So close and yet so far :(

Waiting for my days off work for this week before I tackle it again. The logical method of attack would be to unbolt the Y-pipe from the manifolds, but IF IT WOULD WORK, unbolting only the rear flange would by far be the easiest.

I have the deep pan, with a drain plug. From what I've read, Chevy stopped using drain plugs in (or after, I'm not clear) 2003 for some unknown reason. So at least I didn't get an ATF bath while I've been under there!

Think I could gain the clearance I need by only unbolting the rear flange?

I haven't seen people complaining about clearance issues with the Y-pipe before, so I'm guessing I'm having this problem because I have a 4WD.

I got 2 solenoids, figured I might as well replace both the 1-2 and 2-3 while I'm in there. The guy at work suggested I might consider replacing the TCC solenoid (and the harness that comes with it, that I linked in post #4) at the same time as well. I'm thinking seriously about doing this, because if I have to mess with the Y-pipe every time I need to drop my transmission pan......then yeah, I only wanna do it once.

I really, REALLY need to get my truck back on the road this week and give my father his car back. It's a '92 Olds 88 in darn good shape except that the headliner is drooping. There's nothing really wrong with it, but it's not me and it's slowly driving me batty.

get a flat blade screw driver and just give the shift cable bracket a lil pry and the pan will clear u dnt need to take the two bolts off