Rear axle on 99+ NBS has synthetic from the factory. I swapped my front diff to GM synth too. WARNING it's $27 per bottle. I personally would not use synth trans fluid (only DEX VI) or a BG flush machine but opinions vary.
PM replied.
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Rear axle on 99+ NBS has synthetic from the factory. I swapped my front diff to GM synth too. WARNING it's $27 per bottle. I personally would not use synth trans fluid (only DEX VI) or a BG flush machine but opinions vary.
PM replied.
just a note... i switched to Mobil1 @ 135k. now at 147k, i'm looking for a new engine - spun a bearing & broke a rod. conventional oil leaves shellac deposits on your engine, which help lubricate it. the extra detergents in full synthetic will wear this off & if you don't keep an eye on it, it can collect in your oil pan & clog the pump, therefore starving your engine & possibly recreating said damage.
as for the rest, my trans & rear came synthetic from the factory
BS. I switched at about the same time and have 216K miles.
ok... any other explanations?
i ain't pulled the engine out yet, but i can see on the end of the dipstick where the crap built up in the bottom of the pan.
Did you buy the truck new and did you ever use Pennzoil?
i bought it in 11/06 with 126k & used valvoline til i switched to mobil1
So you don't know how poorly it was most likely treated before....
Nathan, that is very common for higher mileage motors to have this issue. Not every person will notice the build up of shellac in the bottom of the oil pan. If it was noticed, he would prolly still be running the sixer.
I would run synthetic in the motor (depending on mileage of course), standard Dextron VI for the tranny, and synthetics in the rear.
No real need to pull the pan... Just make sure you are like a psycho Ex-Girlfriend when it comes to making sure there is no sludge on the bottom of the oil dipstick.
But I wouldn't even mess with changing to synthetic--too many "what ifs" could happen. Just stick with conventional and you'll be just fine. :thumb: