My angry pistons want out...........what's the best fix??

The EGR system and the valve cover vent tubes leading into the intake manifold clogs stuff up REAL bad on these motors. I would say to delete the EGR and either get a catch can, or put breathers on the valve covers. This gums stuff up and aides in the carbon build up. I would try to run premium fuel with 2 cans of fuel injector cleaner--and RAG THE CRAP OUT OF THE MOTOR when having that in the tank. It will help clear up stuff in the cc.

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Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat

How about the possibility that it could be a failed rocker arm? The GM arms are notorious about losing bearings in the roller trunion and causing a knock noise.

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Also very possible. And checking for this problem is VERY easy...

OK, so seafoamed the engine....no change. Pulled the valve covers to check rocker arms and all good, check cam lift while there and its good. SO this morning it was -40 or so plus the windchill making it -50. Truck started ok but with the usual hammering cold. Really lasted a long time this morning, to the point where I could still hear it over a 6.0L powerstroke ford. Pulled into shop at work and promptly got frostbite on both arms when touched to cold iron while messing around under hood. removed sparkplugs and could actually use a bent tool to move #3 piston side to side in cylinder. confirmed with borescope that all my noise is likely this piston. Looks like it's engine time!!!!!

OK, so now I found a 2004 engine with 60k miles on it for 900 bucks or I can get a 2000 engine with 14k miles on it for 1700. What would be the better deal?? I'm pretty sure I should be able to swap out all the peripherals (intake, sensors, etc) from my 2000 to the 2004. Am I correct in assuming so?? I already know I need the flexplate from the 2004 to make this work. Will I need to re-tune the pcm as well??

You'll need to use your flexplate from the original engine along with a crankshaft spacer and longer bolts to make it like your old setup.

so doing a little shopping on the net, I found that the flexplate and transmission are the same from 2000-2004, so why would I still need the crank spacer?? also, this is my tow rig, so I would be hesitant to put any kind of spacer behind the crankshaft.........

the tranny and the flexplate are the same but the 6.0l had a shorter crank so a spacer was installed to move the flexplate back.

yeah, early model 6L engines have a longer crankshaft, about 3/8" longer. To use a later model 6L engine you'll need to make the crankshaft longer or buy a custom torque converter to compensate for the shorter crankshaft length. I ran a crank spacer and longer bolts and pushed 700 HP through it without any issues. Never fear the crankspaceer. :laugh:

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Originally Posted by wrenchead99

OK, so now I found a 2004 engine with 60k miles on it for 900 bucks or I can get a 2000 engine with 14k miles on it for 1700. What would be the better deal?? I'm pretty sure I should be able to swap out all the peripherals (intake, sensors, etc) from my 2000 to the 2004. Am I correct in assuming so?? I already know I need the flexplate from the 2004 to make this work. Will I need to re-tune the pcm as well??

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Do the 2004 engine--even if it has more miles. And yes, the flexplate stuff is required. Trust us.

sorry to revive an old post, but been too busy to look lately. so where do i find the spacer/bolt kit?? since the trans and the flexplates fron the 00 to 04 are the same, are the blocks different?? I mean, the factory doesn't use the spacer on their engines.....or do they. never had one out :doofus: