DJM 4/6 drop questions

Alright guys im literally dead center in the middle of lower my truck ive got it all up on jack stand all wheels taken off. Im trying to drop the front first then drop the back.

Ive disconnected the tie rods, and removed the stablizer link bars. Ive also loosened the the lower and upper ball joint nuts but there not off. Also my front shocks are out too. And the lower control arm is supported my a jack.

Now my problem is i cant remove the lower ball joint to save my life.... when you guys says spindle do you mean the steering knuckle? Im just using a haynes manual and they dont use the word spindle in it at all.

I dont have a sledge hammer but i do have a 15lbs caprock breaker bar which should be good enough... What the hell am i doing wrong? Thanks

Brandon

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Originally Posted by LS6_Silverado

Alright guys im literally dead center in the middle of lower my truck ive got it all up on jack stand all wheels taken off. Im trying to drop the front first then drop the back.

Ive disconnected the tie rods, and removed the stablizer link bars. Ive also loosened the the lower and upper ball joint nuts but there not off. Also my front shocks are out too. And the lower control arm is supported my a jack.

Now my problem is i cant remove the lower ball joint to save my life.... when you guys says spindle do you mean the steering knuckle? Im just using a haynes manual and they dont use the word spindle in it at all.

I dont have a sledge hammer but i do have a 15lbs caprock breaker bar which should be good enough... What the hell am i doing wrong? Thanks

Brandon

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Yeah the haynes manual wont use the term spindle.

Your just gonna have to screw with it. I had the SAME problems. The sh1t just wouldnt come off. But on a third occassion I figured out the easiest way. Is to take both the upper control arm and lower control arm off with the "steering knuckle" or spindle still attatched, and put a piece of wood over the thread end and beat the **** out of the piece of wood till it popped off. You dont mess anything up in the process, and it literally takes like 10 min to remove both.. Make sure the spring is compressed and out before removing the control arms from the actual frame

Well guys i just now got finished with my 4 inch front suspension drop, that was the worst experence ever... nothing went wrong just time consuming and agrivating. I had no air tools or spring compressor just a 1/2 breaker bar and a good set of sockets.

Ducky thanks so much for your advice on taking the upper and lower control arms off at the same time, soo much easier than what i was trying...

I like the new look alot just have to do the rear now. hopefully that is easyer.. im my opinion my engine swap was easier than the PITA suspension crap i had to deal with. Ill post pictures up when im finish with rear.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LS6_Silverado

Well guys i just now got finished with my 4 inch front suspension drop, that was the worst experence ever... nothing went wrong just time consuming and agrivating. I had no air tools or spring compressor just a 1/2 breaker bar and a good set of sockets.

Ducky thanks so much for your advice on taking the upper and lower control arms off at the same time, soo much easier than what i was trying...

I like the new look alot just have to do the rear now. hopefully that is easyer.. im my opinion my engine swap was easier than the PITA suspension crap i had to deal with. Ill post pictures up when im finish with rear.

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the front is always such a pain in the ass because the first time you take the suspension apart its so damn hard bc its got so many miles and has never been undone from the factory.

the back wont be as time consuming but itll be alright. I think the longest thing you will have to do is just notching the frame

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Originally Posted by LS6_Silverado

...advice on taking the upper and lower control arms off at the same time, soo much easier than what i was trying...

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Yeah, the front is easier to do when taking them both off at the same time.

It is a bitch--only to when you need to bolt everything back up. Getting the jack centered in a god spot under the lower A-arm to get he bolts to go back in has always give me grief.

The rear end should be not as bad. Go ahead and drop the tank--waaay easier and only takes an extra 5 minutes. Disconnect the clamps from the filler neck and vent tube--then push them out of the way. Position the floor jack under the tank and unbolt the straps...let it down about 12" or so and then disconnect all of the fuel lines and electrical connectors--but watch out for the supply line from the tank--it is pressurized and will spray you with gas if you don;t purge the Schrader valve on the fuel rail on the motor... Once everything is disconnected, go ahead and lower it out of the way.

Make sure to have a dremel tool with a few bits so you can notch the frame easily.