edelbrock intake manifold swap.. what all is needed

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^ Thats one hell of a nice engine setup!! :D

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Originally Posted by skeet

damn good advice, myself shpould had went this way could have saved lots of dollars listening and paying attention lol


dont forget if you go vic jr. you will need #42 injectors


dont get me wrong i like my setup. but for what i want i should have just went juiced

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But you can still add a Nitrous setup and then that would really set the bar high!!... :eek:

N02 oh yeah but not anytime soon, kinda leaving this truck alone as i took on a new project truck.. a 84 chevy c10, but decided to stay old school with a 383 stroker

If you dont mind me asking...Do you have anymore pictures of your intake setup from other angles that i might be able to look at??

ive got a few somewhere, i'll load soon

If you plan a single pattern 224 cam, I hope you plan to get some better flowing heads on there first.

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Originally Posted by Hit Man X

If you plan a single pattern 224 cam, I hope you plan to get some better flowing heads on there first.

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:duh: I was planning on working on the heads after the headers and cam but ....I know on a N/A engine your biggest gains will come from the heads/cam swap.

I have a second set of 4.8/5.3 heads in storage that i was planning on upgrading once i found a good mill shop

I dont want to be screwed over and pay more then i should...I know no one does...

Any of you know whats a good ballpark range i should be looking at pricewise for parts and labor to Fully p&p, add slightly bigger valves, valve guides, valve seats, etc...????

Well there are many fools that will slap in the biggest cam they can find and wonder why their vehicle isn't much quicker. Your best bet is to do the heads first, then have a cam ground to match them.

I wouldn't go to larger valves, they're plenty large for the bore you have currently. Anything more you'll start to hurt port velocity and lose torque.

$400-600 is reasonable to have them cleaned up using stock hardware. Then just budget your springs, retainers, and such.

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Originally Posted by Hit Man X

Well there are many fools that will slap in the biggest cam they can find and wonder why their vehicle isn't much quicker. Your best bet is to do the heads first, then have a cam ground to match them.

I wouldn't go to larger valves, they're plenty large for the bore you have currently. Anything more you'll start to hurt port velocity and lose torque.

$400-600 is reasonable to have them cleaned up using stock hardware. Then just budget your springs, retainers, and such.

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Very true statement. Keep your stock heads and do a 3 angle valve job, have the whole valvetrain balanced, do new valve seals, have the heads "cleaned up", get some Comp 918 valve springs, keep the stock retainers (depending on mileage), throw in some hardened pushrods, and the you will be set with your heads. Once that is done, you can then pick out your cam...

Unless you have some wild lift (which is foolish on these heads with small valves even ported) just run some LS6 springs. I run the orange units with my cam (it's a .551" lift, too much lift but the tight LSA and lower durations I wanted) and it's great! No point in wasting $100 if not needed.

Also, I have titanium retainers on my truck. They're only about 0.1g less than the stock units... so not sure if I'd recommend them either. I was expecting less weight but I assume the strength is higher. They're not steel as the retainers I have are non-ferrous (non-magnetic).

Cool, thanks for the helpful advice and tips guys its very much appericated....