Printable View
Just my two cents,
next test is to yank the t-stat, if its still gets hot must be exhaust gas in the coolant. If you have a reserve tank for the coolant hooked up and you see bubbles with the pressure cap on you have a blown head gasket or ---------------- I won't say it :eek:
Or what? I did notice that when the engine is up to temp, the reservoir bottle seems to have steam evap'd in the bottle. I don't recall having this in my '02 Yukon. The guy the bolted the heads onto the motor told another guy I know that he hoped he didn't put the gasket on upside down. That's not good to hear.
Or??? don't say cracked head. NO!!! God NO!!!
I wasn't going to say that------------------------------------glad you did
but the simple fact that this guy who mounted the heads and--HOPED! hummmm 50/50 chance he did it right and the fact it overheated immediately says - might not huv, thats saying it with the chin high in the air. That being said I have never changed heads on an ls based engine so I 'm not sure .
You pretty much have to be sleeping to put them on wrong. They are marked which side is which.
Well... 'bout to get to work. Gonna remove hood... easier to work with it out of the way.
Are you sure the one fan is working properly? Can you give us a pic of the fans? I'm using the F-body fans and wired them up on high at all times. I've never had both fans come on becasue my engine never get's hot enough and I even have the heater line uner the throttle body plugged. I'm wondering if your getting enough cooling. Just a thought.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(NITROUS @ Jul 8 2006, 09:25 AM) [snapback]57447[/snapback]</div>Though only one of the fan motors were good, it still cooled enough, and the the pump pulled cool water to the motor. If there wasn't enough airflow, it wouldn't cool the fluid off enough before ever getting to the motor. Friend of mine pointed that out, and my logic gave me the same conclusion. The motor only seemed to overheat on the driver-side head. The passenger-side head read fine at 197*. I've got HPT, and an Autometer gauge sender setup. The Autometer sender read fine on the pass-side, but read hot on driver-side. EVERYTHING was pointing to the head as an issue. Sooo....Quote:
Are you sure the one fan is working properly? ... I'm wondering if your getting enough cooling. Just a thought.
[/b]
... here's the good stuff.
I've said it before, it's not so bad to remove heads, it's just freakin' tedious. Don't really wanna do it unless absolutely necessary. Spent 2.5 hrs this morning removing the driver-side head. Truck now looks have half it's n**** chopped off. <--- censored so mods won't disable me. :lol:
Here's the play-by-play that led to that:
Started by removing the throttle body, wiring alt/PS accessory brakcet & intake. Carefully placed the intake on top the pass-side head, and accessory bracket laid forward.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue001.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue002.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue003.jpg
Valve cover & exhaust manifold were next.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue004.jpg
Broke out the Haynes manual to make sure I had the correct bolt sequence for removal, and away I went. Rocker arms out, careful to leave bolts in place for reinstallation... rods too. Though the head bolts will get replaced, I numbered the old ones according to sequence, just in case. End result...
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue005.jpg
Well... the head now sits on my carport. Was careful to keep gasket in place to determine if, indeed, it was on correctly.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue010.jpg
After further investigation.... it was not! Could this be the root of my problem. I sure hope so, cuz almost half the day is gone, and I'm planning on driving tonight!
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue012.jpg
The side labeled front was actually on the back... gasket backward & upside down.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue011.jpg
Now... I know the smut buildup is due to truck running pretty rich lately (No o2s connected yet, one is bad). Gonna clean the head a bit while it's off, but should I worry about the surface rust (faint residue) on the cylinder walls?
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue006.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ngIssue007.jpg
That's on all four, but it's not anything major. I'd guess once the pistons start moving up and down, that'll cease to exist. Off to the store now... Updates to come once everything's bolted back up. Feel free to stop by the house, if anyone wishes. Yes, I'm picking up a case (or two) of beer. I think I deserve it right now. :lol:
Well, that sucks. I love people that can't read or follow instructions. :tantrum:
Congrats on finding the culprit!
at least now you know its being done right :cool:
Good news...
Head gasket was on backwards, bad yea, but good that's it's now fixed. Drove from BR to Dehnam today without issues... except the trans cooler weld didn't hold. Molded another layer on today, and will test out tomorrow, after it's cured for 15 hours.
Now... since this hurdle has been crossed, the tuning can begin... once I splice a new o2 sensor on the passenger side exhaust pipe.
Thanks for the input, guys! Guess this had to be done, but is good to know it's done right! :thumb:
Goin cut grass now. :laugh: