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How did your rad. check out? What about the temp sens.? I don't think the steam line would be a problem since, like Red said, all the '01 & '02 Ls1's and all the LS6's have the same steam line set up like yours. I have also seen them with both steam lines plugged with no problems.
I plugged off my lines and so did my bud with the 2 porsche's that have LS1's in them. I think it's a bunch of crap about air pockets. I was on the phone with Air FLow Research and they agree with me but they keep the holes there for emmisions reasons. The holes are there to supply heat to the throttle body and that's it. There is no cooling supplied there as I was told from various racing engine builders including Reher-Morrison, Keith Black and MTI etc.... The way I see it is if were dead headed you might get an air pocket buth the line goes from head to head so it's going to push the air somewhere. Also if there was an issue there, why in the hell did GM plug the rear holes on the LS6's? You can eliminate that line and install the rear plugs on the back of the heads and the same rear plugs in place of the front line. That hose just get's in the way and messes up the looks of the engine if you ask me. JMHO
Radiator checked out fine. T-stat is new, as well as the sensor. Swapped sensors (stock & aftermarket), and the aftermarket sensor sent the gauge the same reading as the stock sensor. The ABSOLUTE last possible problem could lie with the head.
I'm on vacation, starting today. I'll get the correct lines when I come back. Thanks for the input guys! :thumb: This issue will get solved before the end of July. I'm planning to do lots of logging and tuning next month to be track ready by August. I'm new to HPTuners, and am learning a good bit as time progresses.
Just wanted to post an update...
Picked up the part I needed from Nick & Matt. Got back to the house, and started pulling the intake to replace that metal line that's supposed to connect the front & back of both heads. Everything was going TOO SMOOTH, then MURPHY reared his ugly ass head! :cry: The damn tube had to be shaped to fit, and I guess I should've checked it again after I shaped it. Of course, once I started the motor, a stream of coolant sprayed over the alternator. :eek: I stopped the truck to pinpoint the hole, and dug up the J-B Weld. Well... I'm not gonna blab on & on. Here's some pics:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...artPics005.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...artPics004.jpg
Here's my trusty J-B Weld mixing plate (note da chop stick from sushi nite a long while back :laugh: )
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...artPics006.jpg
Here's the difference between what I needed (left) vs. what I had (right)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...artPics002.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...artPics001.jpg
I'll give you all an update on tomorrow. Gonna let the weld cure overnight. Hopefully, I'll have better news. If so, see ya'll at Chimes! :smile:
Welds held up fine (no surprise there :rock: ). Didn't overheat the motor as quickly as before, but yes, it did still overheat. :cry: I'm gonna try a last ditch effort, and drain the radiator & motor (as best as possible). Then, refill the motor with coolant by jacking the front end up a bit (supposed to allw any air pockets to float forward... a local shop tech suggestion), and fill the rad after that. My patience has worn thin, and frustration has set in.
Question:
Is there a reason that these motors (vehicles with these motors) had the orange-colored coolant versus the green-colored coolant? I had two bottles of green coolant in my storage room, and wondered if there was a difference in quality.
If all this doesn't work, I'll be pulling the head off this weekend. :sad:
Run the green stuff. The orange stuff is well known to cause electolysis in the engine. It will cause the internals of the engine to slowly erode away. Most Prestone and stuff these days are universal replacements for both styles of coolant. Green is good. :thumb:
Leave the line on the air bleed open while filling the radiator and fill until a steady stream flows out of the air bleed line.
The orange coolant is Dex-cool, one of the first long life coolants and adopted by GM around 1994 or 1995. In addition to the electrolysis problem that Red described, it also does not play well with others.. If you mix Dex-cool with standard green coolant, you will get a sludge buildup that will quickly clog small openings and totally screw up your cooling system. GM has issued a couple of TSBs on this problem. Use the universal long life stuff that is advertised to mix with anything. Peak or Prestone come to mind. If you want to save $20 and use your old green stuff, just remember not to add Dex-cool later as a top off.
If you want to minimize air pockets and get a complete fill of your motor behind a closed thermostat, fill it through your heater hoses....
Got the air pockets out this evening. After nearly three hours of trying, letting cool (with fans blowing all over), and filling again. It now take about ten minutes for the truck to overheat, and that's after I let it idle long enough to get to 200*. There's some progress, but it's still overheating. With the suggestion from some buddies, the water pump is ruled out. The driver-side head is coming off tomorrow morning. Will try to take pics as I go along.
There's a question as to whether or not the head gasket was put on upside down, or was the wrong one. I would assume this would be an issue, but... i don't know. I'm no certified tech, so please, suggestions are welcomed. :hshake:
Are you using the truck cooling fans or the f-body? I know it's irrelevant but I couldn't see what you had in the pics. Looks like possibly the truck fans.
Ya know... I've been trying to find that out, but cannot get an answer. Guy who gave the dual fans to me doesn't remember. One of the fan motors is bad (smokes badly when powered). Aside from all that... 60* temp between both heads wouldn't exist with just one fan of two running, would it? Wish I didn't sell that dang stock fan (mechanical). Kickin' myself for that.