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That's the stage where I was until this past Saturday. I have the cruise model in storage. I'll figure that out after the tuning's tweaked. A/C is definately the next major thing on my list. I'll have some more notching to do, but that'll be easy. If all looks as well as it does, I don't think I'll have much issue with that.
OK, Problem...
I was under the impression that my truck was running bad after warming up to normal operating temperature. Had my truck logged to find that the engine temperature was reaching the Protection Mode limit (270*). I'm wondering if something's wrong with the driver-side head. Reason I'm saying is b/c that's where the stock temp sensor is, and the PCM is reading 270*. I installed an Autometer gauge & temp sensor on the passenger-side head, and it never exceeds 200*. :sad:
I guess I could remove the Autometer sensor, and try in place of the stocker, but wouldn't that affect PCM readings used to calculate things with motor functions? I don't want to have to pull the head.
YELP!!!
*edit*
BTW... I did change the stock sensor with a new one. Scratch that from the possibilities list.
Is it wired correctly?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Jun 23 2006, 01:43 AM) [snapback]56084[/snapback]</div>To my knowledge... of course, I've missed a connection before. That being said, water temp readings are picked up from the sensor and the return values get sent back to the PCM (two-wire sensor & harness). Are you suggesting the signal lead to the sensor is the culprit (I'll try to check later this evening)? With being able to get a reading, I would assume that the sensor is fine, but I claim not to be a pro at NBS technology. Remember, I'm coming from old school style, simplistic mechanics. :laugh:Quote:
Is it wired correctly?
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Also, I'll pick up some 5w-30 & a filter just for additional peace of mind. Hopefully, there's nothing major. The guy that sold me the motor stated that he changed the oil and filter, but...
be sure that there is only 5v of power going to the sensor. Check for air in the system. Remove the vent hose that comes from the top of the heads and see if water comes out instantly or not. Where did you return the steam vent line? If it still goes through the throttle body, could that be plugged, my LS1 TB vent tube was but I had already bypassed the TB.
There's a line that runs from the top of the driver-side head, and goes to the radiator. I removed that line from the radiator, and fluid poured out, but I did not remove it from the head. I can check that this evening. The rubber line I have bypasses the TB also.
There's another lin that runs from the radiator to the bottle (steam vent line, I'm guessing). This should be what makes that bottle pressurized, right? It wasn't clogged before, but I'll check again this evening.
Any other ideas? Goin grab something for lunch, then come right back.
Here's a couple of things to check.
Swap sensors side for side if you can just to validate both. Confirm that your t-stat is opening and coolant moves through the system. Depending on how your coolant system is set up, an air pocket is a possibility. It may help to get a more complete fill of the system while cold by filling through the heater hoses with both of them raised higher than the highest part of your cooling system. Hope this helps!
Thx, guys... hope my 2 yr old lets me play around a little tonight.
Buy the 2yr old a pedal car to drive around the driveway while you tinker. That always worked for me. :thumb:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Jun 23 2006, 03:07 PM) [snapback]56113[/snapback]</div>Not me. Mine always has to be right by me or into the tools(usually the screw drivers)or something messy. :laugh:Quote:
Buy the 2yr old a pedal car to drive around the driveway while you tinker. That always worked for me. :thumb:
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Hey badc10 what is this bottle your talking about? The overflow? My steam line connects to both heads at the front and rear and has a single exit line that I connected to the tank of my radiator about 4" below the filler cap.