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Is that what you ended up with Ron? I had heard that size. When I do the swap I'll prob have to limp around on my 3.90 for a while. How is she runnin Ron got her dynoed or on the track yet? Did you use your truck slave? I am having troubles with the slave being (undersized???) with just the 5spd with 6 gears wouldn't it be more of a prob
I orginally had 3.42 then went to 4.10 and now I have 4.56 with 20" wheels and a 29.7" tall tire. IMO a 4.88 wouldn't be bad either especially if you was going to be pulling a trailer much.
What do you mean your slave is undersized?
I guess it would be the slave. When racing 1-2 is fine but 2-3 it feels like there is not enough hydrolic fluid left to completely disengauge the clutch. It will not let you go into 3 at all, if you give it 2-3 seconds you can go into gear. By then its to late I've lost .5 a sec or more.
I know what you mean, I replaced my slave and master and that helped some but I have been trying to find a high performace master, I have contacted Mcleod and talked to other people but nothing yet. I know I didn't have these problems on my other trucks prior to 99 and up models.
Think most of the guys with the 5spds are having probs. I saw a way to help fix the prob but can't remember the web site. Essentially you took a small drill bit and drilled out a ball bearing somewhere in the fluid lines. What did you replace your slave and master cyl out with just new oem parts? Why would it help with just oem are the new oem better than our stock ones?
They must have redesigned the master/slave combination from what I had in my 92. It worked flawlessly for over 300k. I never had an issue with the clutch releasing or gears not wanting to shift except when I towed a 20 foot boat for 600 miles and it burned the entire transmission up.
What you are talking about is the drill mod and that is done by using a 1/8" drill bit and drilling out the line that connects to the master cylinder. I checked mine and it was not restricted. I used OEM parts and I don't know why but it did help some but I want to improve it, the older models are different and seemed to work better but I think I may try to mod one from a late model vette, they twist in also just like the late model trucks do.Quote:
Originally posted by litllered 4.8@Sep 25 2004, 12:52 AM
Think most of the guys with the 5spds are having probs. I saw a way to help fix the prob but can't remember the web site. Essentially you took a small drill bit and drilled out a ball bearing somewhere in the fluid lines. What did you replace your slave and master cyl out with just new oem parts? Why would it help with just oem are the new oem better than our stock ones?
Whenever you try that let me know, somethings gotta give. It seems like if I would do the t56 swap it would be even worse because of the added gear. How much were the new parts and do you think it was worth the money?
The truck had the exact same slave as the late model F body cars do which is supposed to be the good one, in my case I think the master helped and also I put an extra shim behind my slave to cause it engage sooner which may have been where my benefit came from. I spent a little over $200 and I am not sure if it was well spent. If you get the chance to get a clutch master off of a late model Vette whether it is working or not pick it up or let me know so I can see if I can modify it. I have access to a machine shop and I am experienced.
What kind of price range should I look for. There are alot of junk yard around atlanta I can search around if you think it would be worth it. If you could come up with something that worked well I'd like to have one too :lol: What year models also got a little t/a vette shop up from the house could possisbly go talk to them fri.