I never hear of anyone swapping to an LS2. Why is that?
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I never hear of anyone swapping to an LS2. Why is that?
Reluctor wheels and Pain in the but wiring + cost. Add heads and cam to a nice LQ4 and you get just as much if not more power than a stock LS2. Aluminum block is the only thing I think is interesting about the LS2 but the weight savings is not worth the cost. I could be wrong, but I think I am mostly right.
LQ4/9 = cheaper!
I think it is mostly the expense. You can buy LQ4's for about 1/8th the price of an LS2.
LS1/LS2/LS6 = bad idea on 5000lb monsters...if you put the power to it that is!! You have a much higher chance of warping or cracking the block with that kind of load
I've never heard of that!Quote:
Originally Posted by 01blackerado
:) If you can crack an iron block then im sure aluminum won't be any better as far as strength goes.
anyone ever crack an iron block cyl wall? well i did - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums
Plus if you go to LS1tech.com and type in cracked aluminum block in the search, you'll find many MANY people with cracked block posted up there. And they are ls1 cars. Too much power can crack any block, but an aluminum block with 5000lbs load on it will crack much easier than an iron block
Please my friend, im not trying to be an ass but i think i know a slight bit more about these motors since i have a custom built 383 that was garage built but machined through LME :ma:Quote:
Originally Posted by Quik
Not trying to be offensive here just stating what ive learned from being in the game for the past 6 years now EXTENSIVELY
Nick,Here are the final Pics... - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums
I know about puting power down trust me!! Im not saying the blocks are crap so dont take me wrong, I merely said with ALOT of power, your chance of ceacking an "ALUMINUM" block is much higher than cracking an "IRON" block. <<<If that statement isnt true then show me how you figure that an aluminum is stronger than the iron
:) I can see you just like to talk to start !*#!
"I never hear of anyone swapping to an LS2. Why is that?" <<Is the original question.
How does my answer not have anything to do with this question.
Guys with ex cab trucks, perfer 6.0 block to LSx blocks for a couple reasons. Some have been mentioned "I think it is mostly the expense. You can buy LQ4's for about 1/8th the price of an LS2."
What was not mentioned and is not ALWAYS the reason to not buy it, since not everyone plans on puting enough power through the motor to crack it, is that aluminum blocks crack EASIER<<Keyword here, than an IRON block
LOL nice job bringing the whole world into my and your little issue...Take words and twist them a little...I SAID I KNOW A SLIGHT MORE THAN YOU!!!!!! NOT EVERYONE ELSE, YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well I promise I didnt mean that for anyone else since I directly quoted you :)
So if someone asked you why your truck is black and not grey...THE ONLY ANSWER to it is that the manufacture painted it that way???? I mean couldn't you argue that its black because you wanted it that color. or because the manufacturer ran out of paint on that dy and decided to make 100 more trucks in black to save up and i ended up getting one!?!? My point being theres more than one answer for not buying the LS2 (ALUMINUM) Block other than price!! YES YOU ARE RIGHT!!!!!!!!! PRICE IS A HUGE ISSUE, but, I merely gave him another thing to look at especially if he decides to go much further with his project than you or I. Im shooting for 1200hp 1200ftlbs. Turbo'd and Direct port N2O...I would not recommend starting that kind of platform on an Aluminum block because, NOT ONLY DOES IT COST MORE but, It has a HIGHER chance to crack when under alot of pressure+added LOAD of the vechicle!!! You talk about how the manufacture makes some of these trucks with aluminum blocks, YES YOU ARE RIGHT but, Are these trucks used for towing?? Are they EXcab fullsize trucks? Crew cabs?? Or are the SSR's?? I dont know of any BONE STOCK 2500's with aluminum blocks!?!? Did GM say oh "F" it lets just make an IRON version of the aluminum 5.7l to add more weight to the trucks!?!?
No need to go there :) Im not knocking just felt like i was being attacked...I'll explain
You dont need N2O plus the turbo for those numbers, I did this because i wanted another way to Cool IAT's when under boost besides Methanol. I used the DP system so I can use the N2O to drop IAT's, and the Fuel to control my AFR better. By adding in the larger fuel spray nozzels I can richen my system up, add 225 hp, and cool down IAT's all at the same time. wanted to try something different since alot of people go with Meth since its alot cheaper
Yes and no IAT's can be measured via your own IAT sensor or the IAT sensor from the MAF. I dont want it to register though!!! This is for my peace of mind...I dont know if you tune or not but in the PCM it reads the IAT's and decides a couple things. 1. Spark correction 2. PE enrichment...There are more but these are the two i care about. I dont want my PCM to sense that the IAT's are lower thus moving me into a more powerful cell of spark or enrichment...I want the IAT's to drop( because of efficiency one, 2 to keep the block safe) but not have the PCM add more spark or enrichen my fuel anymore. It can easily be tuned out, but if the PCM never sees it in the first place then i never have to worry about it. So all i have to do is make a safe Spark and enrichment table for the higher IAT's since that's all it will see :)
Isn't the new L92/L76 engine an aluminum block? Don't they also put that engine in 3/4 and one ton trucks? I'll have to read the posts on the cracked aluminum blocks, that's the first time I've ever heard of an LSx block cracking. I guess I learnsomething new every day. I know Ford has a problem with the 5.0 blocks cracking.
wow all i was wonder was why or why not. ls2, that **** is funny
I would like to see some pictures of a failed (cracked) LSX block so I can see how it failed. If it is simply a rod stuck through the block, I've seen a few iron blocks like that as well. I think the C5R block is aluminum as well.
Do you have any other links to a cracked GenIII block? The one below was Parish's engine block and it cracked a cylinder wall, the thinnest load bearing part of the engine. That can happen with any engine made from cast iron and bored out to the limits. The Ford blocks would physically split when they failed.
Yeah, it's easier to pay roughly $3600 for a brand new LQ9 engine than to pay $5800 for an LS2.
Yes they split in the lifter valley.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
First off this thread might be a bit off topic. I don't think anyone meant to step on any toes, just prevent the spread of misinformation, or at any case learn new information. I think the main answer to the question is price. As far as durability at most power levels and uses either should perform well.
Just head over to the LS1tech.com website and search cracked aluminum blocks, there are a few BS post in there but a few others that are talking about their block cracking and if they should JB weld it etc etc etc. I'm not sure why you find it hard to beleive that any engine with enough load and power will crack. Why is it so much harder to believe that the softer aluminum metal can crack if under too much pressure?? Its like youre trying to argue that the sky is blue 100% of the time in vegas and it will never rain.
PLAIN AND SIMPLE ALL BLOCKS CRACK UNDER EXTREME PRESSURES, TEMPS, AND LOAD. Softer metal has a tendacy to crack or warp sooner then harder metals. Have you ever heard of a warped head?? Have you heard of a warped iron head?? Metal warps guys no matter how you slice it. If not then blocks would never have an issue other than internals. I've seen personally cracked main journals, infact my bottom end came out of a cracked block. The guy went to build it and didnt realize it was crack until he seated the the crank into the main journal then gave up. Sold the whole setup to me and i used an iron 5.3l block, bored it to 3.903 noched the block and put in a 4.000" crank with 6.25 rods in there -30cc dished pistons.
I searched and found one that said the main saddles had cracked. That's severe. All the others were due to catastrophic failures or amatuer hour at the head swap shop. Water doesn't compress at the bottom of a head bolt hole and when you tighten the head bolts it blows out the aluminum and breaks/cracks the block. I've even done that one myself long ago. :whack: God, did I honestly admit that in a public forum? :eek:
There were a few iron block cracks as well. I didn't find one "I was out four wheeling in my crew cab 4x4 and my newly swapped LS1 block cracked in half" or "I was running 10LBS of boost on my LS1 at the track and the block just cracked in half".
FWIW or for those that might want to know, the L92 block is aluminum according to Scoggin Dickey.
I found one post of a guy that cracked his aluminum block in the oil galley when he did a wheel stand, lost control of the car when it came down and destroyed the entire front of the car. I think it was TTP's Camaro.
Ok this wasnt meant to start a thread war...I didnt say aluminum blocks will just crack. The key words that you are missing from every single one of my posts is that "UNDER ENOUGH PRESSURE,TEMPS,and or LOAD" and aluminum block "WILL CRACK B4 an IRON BLOCK WILL" Not aluminum is crap cause it will crackimmediatly, not Id go iron cause aluminum is going to crack when you drive it. I didnt even say anything about horsepower or torque. ALL I SAID WAS THAT THE METAL IS MORE LIKELY TO CRACK B4 B4 B4 damnit B4 and Iron block will thats all. I didnt say Iron was invincible or that aluminum is made of copper and cracks when you start driving. Please don't put more to my posts than what im actually saying. I love you guys for the same reasons that all of us do. INFO...If my info is not worth being posted then i wont post. But if someone asks why they dont see alot of people doing something and only one answer is given I try to give a little more to think about incase they decide to put 1500HP in a truck that weighs as much as mine does. I was new once too and I had to learn this stuff just like everyone else
Please dont try to be a smart ass. :rolleyes: 6.125 im sorry i missed the 1 key.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quik
In case you have no idea about that since you like to make people look stupid ill make you look just as dumb. Even a moron couldve figured out that i mean 6.125 rod length.
LS1 6.125 rods - LS1TECH
wtb 6.125 rods for ls1 - LS1TECH
Affordable 6.125 rods? - LS1TECH
Do I need to post more links for you or can you handle the search button??
And quote me where I back pedaled please!!?
Here's my original post to this thread "
LS1/LS2/LS6 = bad idea on 5000lb monsters...if you put the power to it that is!! You have a much higher chance of warping or cracking the block with that kind of load" find my back pedal
And for the record, if youre going to make fun of someone, at least use the proper spelling of words...Mr. I know more "then" you.
:popcorn: :cowl:
:bsflag::tvhaha::bow:So funny!
i want a fast engine.... that doesnt crack or break..... and is made of titanium.... and powered by uranium... for cheap
find me one of those.... now GO
What I think is funny is you can really see how if one persons comments dont agree with everyone elses, they get attacked. right or wrong I think yall should have been more mature in how yall handled it. No reason to be hostile, thats what the dodge guys do when they loose. We arent dodge guys, we are Chevy guys, smart, loyal, knowledgeable and we are suposed to stick together. And In my opinion If I had a choice between A Lq4, LQ9, Ls1, LS6, LS7, LR4. Id choose the LS7 or the LS6 if money wasnt a thang. Only because in my experience an iron block heat cycles different than a aluminium block. And if the heads are aluminium, they heat and cool at the same ratio. IMO dont hate, listen and learn. I may be wrong.
Face it Quik, You lost :) Thats why you resort to the little snyd remarks that youre using now. thanks for playing the game. Oh btw if you learn how to read, you'll know that half the claims you say in this thread are BS :) I never said I'm shooting for 1500 hp.
I never once back pedaled which you still failed to prove.
I proved everything I said with links when needed.
And If its still rocket science to you on how Aluminum just plain old isn't stronger than Iron. Then you have alot more issues than just being dumb :)
When you have some facts to prove ANYTHING that you said today in this thread is fact and not your weak @$$ opinion then Ill bow down. Until then STFU unless you have somethin constructive to say.
You tried and tried and tried to make me look dumb. Then you gave up, then your moderator friends came online to say something then you jump back in again. Then they realize that what i was saying holds truth and now you resort to being the small guy again. Be a leader not a follower.
I agree with you VFF JEFF thank you for puting perspective on this and adding an opinion that is not only true but does not try to directly down someone elses opinion like a few others have tried to do!!
What gets me is guys that have to come online and insult people by telling others they are smarter than everyone else. We had one here not long ago that bragged about knowing more than anyone else, even the guys in the LSx business. Nobody knows everything and anyone who thinks they do is more dangerous than a newbie that admits he knows nothing. :twocents:
im:newbie: but I ask questions if i dont know. I dont just pretend to know, and be pompus like some users If seen before. bottom line? iron or aluminium, just pic one, either way you will make plenty of power, and have your fare share of problems.
last word huh?
does it matter if i hate everyone baecause they are faster than me??? and know more than i do....
This has gone past entertaining it is hilarious, and Stupid. When I see comments that I think are absolutely stupid I try to ignore them. Like the DEI idiot. No comments necessary. What can you say that everyone else can't plainly see.
I vote the moderators delete all the nonsense to get this post to where it was started.
Too much :bsflag:
I thought it was a good question.
cost for sure i just did a Lq4 swap the l2 was almost 8000 more
*Chuckles* I know I shouldn't but I cant help myself..........speaking as a machinist and general smart arse the reason all Fuel class engines are all based on alum like T-6 and others instead of "good ole iron" is tensile to weight ratios while you could obviously engineer an iron block as strong or stronger then the current alum why in the hell would you? Alum blocks can and do make over 4k hp and are dead reliable at 60% less weight the failures sighted in alum Lsx's as far as I can tell have mostly been design/build failures not material failures hence the changes the CR5 team made along the way, to their blocks.anyway from a material view of course alloy iron has higher tensile properties then say t-6, however the tensile stress/es encountered in even a maximum effort road race engine are well with in range of duty for modern alum mixes, obviously for the success/es in all form of motorsports using various high output alum black based engines
As for the original topic question..........i dunno......
I Have A 2007 Silverado With The 5.3 Can You Tell What The Proper Name Is For The Motor Like Lq4 Or Lq9
8th vin digit from the left, what is it ?