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When I install my 3800 stall here I plan to go through the trans while it's out. I have a lift so it's no biggie. I'm using Red Eagles for the Fwd, Overrun, and the 2-4 band (Std width, 2.2x" is plenty wide as is)
BUT
what the hell should I use for the 3-4? I'm either going to use 7-8 Red Eagles (dependant on clearance) with full thickness Kolene steels or that 13 single sided setup from Raybestos. Only thing, I'm worried about heat build up with the single sided... yet they're used in the Allison 1000 sometimes.
Opinions?
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Well I'm no tranny expert but I been researching a little lately for my own and I've seen where a lot of shops use the Rabestos Z pack.
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Well I'm trying to see who has killed their 3-4 packs with either of those two setups. The Ray blueplates I don't like at all. BW Tans are a decent setup also, but something more aggressive is what I'd prefer...
Alto has a full faced clutch (no oil grooves) and their resin backing is badass.
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Sounds like we should be asking you about trannies instead of the other way around. :laugh:
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LOL
Well I have it narrowed down to the two. Maybe people that have fried their direct packs can post up. :laugh:
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BTW my tranny is really lazy going from 2-3 at WOT. I just ordered a Superior Super servo, a transgo SK kit, and a new seperator plate. Do you think this will cure my problems?
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Use borg warner clutch pack and steels, factory setup, from a 4L65E. There aren't any better. I used all BW clutches and Raybestos steels. Nice. Less is actually better in the 3-4 pack. Check out Rock-On transmissions and FLT's websites. They both use the BW 3-4 4L65E clutches if I remember correctly. Rock-On recommends using the vacuum modulation kit from TransGo, also.
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Well I smoked the Blue Plate Specials in mine and now have the Z-Pack but I have a problem that I can't seem to figure out when the trans warms up. It will shift all of the gears very firm but something is slipping when either the lock-up clutch engages in the verter or the 3-4 is letting loose. It's kinda hard to explain...I'll get 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 all firm and good under 50% throttle or more and then when it locks up I get some slipping before it goes into full lock-up. But if I'm driving normal all is well. This is only after the trans has warmed up...What's the diagnosis Doc... :smile: Zed
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Being lazy on 2-3 could be TqMgt kicking you in the nuts, a slight slip, etc. Build up the VB and see how that goes... that includes the parts you ordered.
Yes, they use eight .065 I think clutches to fit that many in there but probably with a thinner backing plate. Have ya ever looked into how the RE's are built? It's a better clutch than the BW to me. I see most REs fail as they put too many in as you stated. Nine clutches aren't needed there, heat is the problem... not friction area. 7 full thickness clutches and full thickness steels would be pretty slick in there.
I have a Vac Mod setup lying in a box somewhere, it's all dependant on idle vac too! :laugh: But with all the success with the 13 clutch kit, it's a toss up to me. I just know that pack needs a very tight clearance. About .010" is what I have noted... yes it's far tighter than the spec'd .060"
Well it could be a slipping lockup clutch if you've kept it it locked under load. The stock style clutch can't hold too much under load... that's why I have a triple clutch going in. :smile:
Also, this unit is a PWM TCC lockup... it could be acting queer. You can remove the valve, stuff a HO pump spring in there to park it. It'll make TCC lock up ON or OFF. Much better. :smile:
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I have the Zpak and have no slipping at all, nice firm shifts all the way up and down.
