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Got the exhaust welded back on and took the truck for a spin. Started getting codes P0327 and P0332. There is also some vibration at acceleration and I hope it's due to needing some more pinion/drive shaft adjustment. I made a quick adjustment and didn't recheck it but the tailshaft seal seems to be leaking a little. The truck get's on it hard and torques the engine almost 3/4" to the passenger side. It even put a small dent in the new header LOL!!! Actually the truck runs like a scalded ape. I wonder if the truck is running a little lean from the hot air coming into the mass air flow though because of the KR? How about some input?
BTW, the KR reading isn't even showing anything in scan mode. Almost looks like their dead, Maybe I need to look and see if the sensors have come unplugged or something.
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Check that you did not disable the KR, if that's possible. Also, check that the wires didn't get cut or broken somewhere. Do you have a filter on the MAF or are you pulling dirt straight in?
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I'll check everything out in the morning. I have a temporary K&N installed but it's sucking in some heat from the fans.
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You may have desensitized the KR sensors. I've done the before.
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Do they have to be replaced when that happens or what dod I need to do? This is the only code I'm getting now besides my ABS light on and that isn't supported by HPT. I'll use an OBDII scanner to look at that but they work.
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Ask Allen what he does to override or turn the KR readings for sensitivity.
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Greg, I got the KR to clear codes because the connection was loose but sensitivity is at 0 with no response. Maybe that's a good thing, not sure though. Have you ever had them read 0 ?
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O KR is great but I would think you should get some KR otherwise you need more timing. If you hear knock and it doesn't read it, something is wrong.
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Man I dont play around with the knock sensors all that much, but it sounds like you have some bad connections or maybe even bad sensors? There is a way to disable them in the PCM, but I dont think you would have done that if you didnt go hunting for those tables and messed with them.
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I would test the knock sensor... The knock sensor learns min and max frequency's and reports as a/c voltage to the vcm. If the frequency is out of range (putting a small dent in your header) it will through a Knock Sensor code.
Clear the code and see if it comes back.
If code returns test the resistance from the k/s signal wire to battery ground. Should be 90ish to 105-110 kohms. If not in spec most of the time its a open or short to ground in the harness. (signal wire)
To test the actual knock sensor itsself. Set the volt meter to a/c current and hook up to signal wire and ground near sensor to engine block. Tap the block with a hammer close to the knock sensor. DO NOT hit anything plastic or the sensor ;) If there is no current its the sensor. If there is current its open or shorted to the vcm or bad vcm. But I dought that...
Good luck
