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This might be a stupid question, but I'm wondering if the exhaust manifolds from a Chevy 6.2 (say, from a 2010 Camaro or 2009 Pontiac G8) fit a 2008 5.3L LMG from a Tahoe. I've read that a lot of K5 Blazer swaps use these headers for frame clearance, but a lot of these trucks have the 6.0L.
So... would they work with a 5.3L?
Thanks!
Yes
"Yes" is potentially good news for me. Do you (or does anyone) foresee any complications or problems with using late model Camaro/G8 exhaust manifolds with a 5.3 LMG? Put another way - will there be any issues with using car headers on a full-sized, 4wd truck?
As far as fitting the chassis I couldn't help there. They will fit the engine no problem. Ls3 camaro manifolds are real close to the block so that may help.
Thanks for the feedback. I called around today and spoke with a whole bunch of different people about the exhaust manifolds fitting and potentially causing problems. Everyone said that the heads on the 5.3, 6.0, and 6.2 are the same (same size exhaust manifolds and holes), and that they wouldn't cause any operational problems for the motor. Of course, these exhaust manifolds will use different flanges, but it looks like that's about as trick as it gets.
Most find these manifolds are also super easy to weld (cast steel IIRC) so if there is interference you should be able to cut the ends off and reweld to work for your application
Good to know Goldhawg. Thanks!
After creeping through Craigslist auto parts adds in nearly every major city (by the way, Las Vegas appears to be a pro "LS city" - lots of parts there) I found a pair of JBA shorty intake manifolds in Denver that are ceramic coated and came off a 2010 Camaro. From the pictures, they look nearly brand new, and the same model is selling at Summit Racing for just a little under $700.00 (got em for $250 + $48 for shipping). Hopefully nothing is seriously wrong with them. It can really pays off to slow down and do a lot of searching for used parts.
I'll get pictures of the headers attached to my motor after I receive them next week, and also after I drop the engine in to show the clearance. The stock 5.3 truck exhaust manifolds just wouldn't clear the frame.
I got the JBA shorty exhaust manifolds installed today - here is what they look like on both sides (the side with the clover pipe is the driver side): http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/attac...8&d=1410581142 http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/attac...5&d=1410581132.
Everything clears on the passenger side, and the spark plug cords and boots have enough breathing room without touching the manifold. The driver side has an issue. In these images, the spark plug cord is very close to the pipe, and the rubber end of the boot is resting right on the manifold: http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/attac...3&d=1410581156 http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/attac...9&d=1410581144 .
Does anyone have any ideas about modifying the spark plug cord that is touching the manifold? These heads are ceramic coated, but they will still get plenty hot enough to ruin a cord quickly. I thought maybe some titanium insulation tape on the pipe near the cord loop would offer enough protection, but I have no idea what to do about the rubber boot on the manifold. If the boot were shorter and not sticking out as far, then I think it would be OK.
After looking into the "melting the spark plug issue" on the driver side JBA, I shot out a lot of contact emails to various hot rod web sites and spark plug wire manufactures for a preventative measure. Accel was nice enough to respond back and verify that their 9070C ceramic boot spark plug set should work for my headers and engine. FYW: the 9070C wires have a 45 degree ceramic boot and the wires are (according to Accel) 10" long. They look a hell of a lot smaller in the picture. The Accel 9065C wires are 13.5" long. Here is a picture:
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/attac...4&d=1410922343
I was able to find the wire set on sale at Amazon for $99.00. Prices elsewhere range between $99.00 and $150.00. I might also buy a pair of titanium spark plug wire insulators (condoms) just to be safe on the two plugs surrounded closely by metal.