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I ended up getting a 2002 gmc 1500 for cheap with a bad trans in it. Anything I should make sure to keep for my swap? I am putting the 5.3 into a 1988 c1500 2wd short bed and the donor is a 2002 extended cab 4wd z71. Is it possible to make the 4wd trans 2wd?
Everything you can. Whatever you dont use you can sell to pay off your swap. I pulled as much as I could and have a little stock pile. Some is gone but some parts are still around. I even used some of the interior parts on my 98.Quote:
Originally Posted by slowc1500
I pulled the AWD trans from my donor and just converted it to a 2WD for my truck.
Like it was said before - grab what you can and sell off what you don't need. If you want your 88 to pass local emissions, try to get the pipes, sensors and Cat (though you will likely have to replace the cat if it's all plugged up). You will absolutely need the donor's CPU and wire harness. Since the 5.3. is from a 2002 that uses a throttle cable (not drive-by-wire), then you don't need the truck's throttle pedal.
Good luck with the swap.
Not worried about emissions we don't have any local. Would it be easier to put the newer fuel tank and lines to the old one or retrofit it with a walboro. I appreciate your responses!
I think you have the same stock fuel setup that I do with my 88 Blazer (TBI - right - Throttle body fuel injection?) If so, then you have the tank with a baffle, the metal lines with a fuel return, and for the most part, you have the majority of the parts to convert. If your donor motor has one fuel rail on it, then you have a single fuel line and it will require a Corvette regulator (PN WIX-33737) to be installed along the frame. Waloro makes an aftermarket pump that should drop right into your truck's original fuel sending kit. Here is a good in-tank fuel pump (PN 255LPH GM Walbro Alternative Fuel Pump w/ Venturi Tube). Don't mess with external fuel pumps. It seems easier, but they suck.
Here is a link that has some decent info and pictures of a similar fuel system that you will need to build. The AN flexible lines are optional, but that is what this builder chose to use: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=349201
Hope this helps a bit.
Grab the throttle cable as yours is too short if I remember correctly. I am hanging on to mine from my 98 in case I do this again in an older obs.
Definitely helps blazerboy I appreciate it. I will definitely grab the throttle cable I was wondering about it. Any preference on mounts or the dirty dingos pretty much the ones to get?
Here are the motor mount plates I went with - PN: DD-2575-4. You can find them at this link: http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...=1367&CDpath=8. You're looking at about $115.00 after taxes and shipping.
Another popular mount plate that I have read a lot of people talking about it is the 713088-P from Advanced adapters - it's about $80.00. It supposedly still has one inch to adjust, but those with trucks say that they had to modify their rear crossmember.
I've ran into two issues with the Dirty Dingos: first, you will have to remove the ls AC compressor to fit the passenger side (not a big deal - that compressor will not work for you anyway). Second, on my engine, I have a grounding screw on the driver side that got in the way, and I'm either going to have to relocate it or else modify the mount plate. Either option is pretty easy, but the mount will not work if the screw stays where it was.
What I found with my Dirty Dingo mounts, I had to notch the driver side mount in the bottom front of the plate to clear one of the main cap bolts on the side of the block. I was rather disappointed about that. Just a heads up in case anyone was buying those mounts. I never saw any complaints about them before and was shocked when I had to do it to mine.