Purchasing a high mile truck = pros/cons

What are the risks of purchasing a high mile LS based truck/suv?
I've heard mixed emotions and honestly I'm not too concerned because I did most of the work to my previous OBS Tahoe and have read and heard the NBS' are easier to work on and maintain. My wife is concerned about it having high miles and the problems that may arise.

I'm looking for another suv, either a Tahoe or Suburban and my budget is well, lacking. The least amount spent the better right now, my oldest has just been moved into college and my funds are rather low.

I found a 03 Suburban w/245k miles, one owner no accidents clean car fax, something that seems to be rare these days. Another thing, it seems to completely stock. Which is also a bonus.

Any advise/info would be much appreciated.
Thanks

If you are getting it for a good price go for it. Stock setups can go that mileage without too many issues. If you can fix one I would say no problem as parts are everywhere. Think of it as recycling! LOL!

I say do it if you an do all the labor yourself.

With that many miles that SUV should be worth very little; don't get me wrong that is great for ppl like us.
Get the price down as far as possible and then go spend about a grand if u can on maintenance parts.
O2's. fuel pump. Brakes. Hoses. Bushings. Steering. Shocks. Worn out interior pieces like buttons. Etc and you'll have a good truck!

Pros-cheap cons-you gotta work on it

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Originally Posted by GMCwantsLS1

If you are getting it for a good price go for it. Stock setups can go that mileage without too many issues. If you can fix one I would say no problem as parts are everywhere. Think of it as recycling! LOL!

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Well, the price is under $4k. That seems pretty reasonable to me. Hah, that's a good way of thinking of it.

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Originally Posted by farmtruc

I say do it if you an do all the labor yourself.

With that many miles that SUV should be worth very little; don't get me wrong that is great for ppl like us.
Get the price down as far as possible and then go spend about a grand if u can on maintenance parts.
O2's. fuel pump. Brakes. Hoses. Bushings. Steering. Shocks. Worn out interior pieces like buttons. Etc and you'll have a good truck!

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Pulling the motor and dropping the tranny can be done at my buddies shop, everything else can be done at my house.
The one thing that concerns me is "when" it will happen and being prepared for it.
That is my plan, preventative maintenance, get it all done before anything happens.

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Originally Posted by Botlfed

Pros-cheap cons-you gotta work on it

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Both very true.

Thanks guys, I appreciate your info

A friend of mine just picked up a loaded 2000 suburban for 2500 has 230,000 on it

The when is a total roll of the dice. These motors are known to run for 300k+ however the valve train is notorious for random failure. Bent pushrods, collapsed lifters, loose or failed timing chains and rockers losing needle bearings are common in these motors at any age. The bottom end on the other hand likely will never need to be touched. The trans is a time bomb ready to explode from the day it rolls of the factory assembly line. Some will last 15k others 150k. I would plan on an 80e swap as soon as funds will allow. The stock posi G80 or known as the grenade 80 is also a known weak point. The fuel pump may likely need to be replaced. That is a good starting point. IMO 4k is a good price and with proper care and maintaince could be a bad ass ride for many years to come.

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Originally Posted by bootlife

A friend of mine just picked up a loaded 2000 suburban for 2500 has 230,000 on it

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Nice, that is another option. I had found an 01 with 185k miles for $6900. Its a bit more than I wanted to spend but you get the 6.0, 4l80e and 14 bolt rear. It may be worth it in the end and its 2wd.

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Originally Posted by kerrige

The when is a total roll of the dice. These motors are known to run for 300k+ however the valve train is notorious for random failure. Bent pushrods, collapsed lifters, loose or failed timing chains and rockers losing needle bearings are common in these motors at any age. The bottom end on the other hand likely will never need to be touched. The trans is a time bomb ready to explode from the day it rolls of the factory assembly line. Some will last 15k others 150k. I would plan on an 80e swap as soon as funds will allow. The stock posi G80 or known as the grenade 80 is also a known weak point. The fuel pump may likely need to be replaced. That is a good starting point. IMO 4k is a good price and with proper care and maintaince could be a bad ass ride for many years to come.

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I have read so much about these motors being abused and lasting hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. Its the tranny I am more worried about than anything.
That is when the 01 HD Yukon XL comes into play. Is it worth the extra cash for the added power stronger tranny and bigger rear end? Also, the gearing, 4:10s aren't so pleasant for daily use. I'm thinking about swapping them out for 3:73s, if I go that route.

Thanks for the info guys
I'm thinking swap to 3:73s and be done with it

4.10s are actually great especially in that big freaking pig. I would say the 80e and stronger rear are defiantly worth it. Think about it this way 4k vs 6900 is 2900 of difference. The cost of a 6.0, trans and rear swap will be a lot more than 3k after odds and ends.

Are there any chassis differences between the HD Sub/Yuk XL and a standard Sub/Yuk XL?
I agree, with the 6.0, 80e and stronger rear, its definitely worth it.