$3,500 on my 6.0 bulid up well spent! lasted 2k miles...

This is my 03 LQ4 6.0L. Has comp cam, ls7 timming set, ported stock heads, ls7 springs... Oil pump said peace im out. But now after it spun a berring now has oil presher....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlORSvWVw94

damm that sucks

why are so many people spinning bearing in these motors here lately?

idk all i know my oil pump was weak, an i had it replaced. New pump lasted 50 miles an lost oil presher. But now its knocking it has oil presher now....... WTF! an only has 135k on it never worked hard or beat on. Truck was all stock an just a comuter up to 130k miles

So many people think that replacing a LS based oil pump is just a simple remove and replace operation. You have to get it centered properly on the crank or you'll burn it up in short fashion. The Oring is also tempermental, it's very easy to pinch it in the pump. Often times the sump tube presses the Oring proportionally more to one side than the other and causes an air suction leak in the pickup tube. Another thing that happens is the pickup tube get placed too close to the bottom of the pan and causes the pump to cavitate. There should be from 3/8 to 1/2 gap from the bottom of the pan to the sump. The oring issue, I like to pack silicone in the area behind the oring to serve as a secondary seal to the pickup tube.

idk i didnt do the work... i had it in the shop for a oil pan an rear cover leak. all i know is the shop had the tranny out 2 times, pan off 3 an replaced the oil pump.... Back when i had the cam put in, i found it had a supn cam berring an only replaced the cam berrings never touched the bottom end...

I sure would be taking it back to them if it only lived 50 miles after losing oil pressure due to their oil pump install. Not just anyone can build a Gen3 properly. Your pump is either galled up or the plunger hung in it blowing all oil pressure out the relief port, likely.

so Ive noticed from alot of people that this is a problem when building these motors. What kind of steps can be taken to ensure it doesnt happen? I like RedHeartbeat's silicon idea, any other little tricks to help prevent failure?

How do you center the pump, when I did my cam swap i didnt do anything like that.

me, I use two dial indicators to measure clearance vertically and horizontally. You can also take the front cover off the pump slip a .002" feeler gauge between the rotor and the pump body anywhere around it when you have it centered correctly. Be cautious about tightening the cover back on because you can easily strip the threads out on the soft aluminum, don't know how many heli-coils I've had to install on stripped holes in the past but it's been quite a few.