4l80e pump removal trouble. Boost valve removal trouble 4l80e hd2 d

I'm installing the 4l80e hd2d kit in my trans. I'm having trouble getting the damn pump off. How does it come off?
I tried using two 7" long bolts that go in place of 2 existing bolt holes then I took a 2x4 cut a hole to slide over the input shaft. Then i drilled some slots for the 7" bolts. The I dea was to crate my own pulling tool but I'm tightening this thing pretty damn tight and the pump isn't budging. I don't want to screw anything up so before I try to tighten it anymore I hope I can get an answer.



Also, for you guys having trouble removing your boost valve:
I drilled a small hole into the top of it then I screwed in a screw and then pulled on the screw to remove it. It seeems not all boost valves will drop out after you remove the snap ring.
Thanks guys

you dropped the pan, pulled the filter and removed the lockup solenoid?

FWIW, the outer splined section is pressed into the pump. The center section goes/stays with the internal parts of the transmission. I have a tube that clamps over the stator(outer), a washer welded to the top of the tube, a nut welded to the washer, bolt going through the nut pushing on the center part to pull the pump off.

THe pan is off, the filter is out. THe lockup solenoid is still on. I'm not sure where this is located but all the solenoids are still connected.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ket_48888_.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ket_48889_.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ket_48890_.jpg

The solenoid mentioned earlier is in a 60e. :laugh:

Awe man haha. yeah IDK I've never even heard of a Lockup solenoid. I'm a beginner with transmissions. All I know is there are a bunch of solenoids in there. Thanks Greg you are a lifesaver. It looks like I need to remove the o ring seal per the second pic you posted. Maybe that is the reason I was tightening the bolts so much without the ppump coming off.
That's a killer idea for you tool. You should patent that! If not do you have pics?

THanks again Greg!

Are the 7 " bolts in the threaded holes in the pump? Not the hole that fastens it to the case , right?
I used to use a modified slide hammer, I think it was a 3/8 bolt welded to a tall nut.

yeah, GasGuzzler brought over a genuine GM service tool to pull a pump and it wouldn't do it. I broke out my homemade tool and VIOLA! off it comes. :laugh: I'm a farmer at heart, if it can't be fixed with a welder or bailing wire it ain't broke. :LOL:


Yeah, the oring will not lot it come apart, it has to be removed before pulling the pump.

Haha lmao. Then you should definately patent your tool! Alright cool, I'm gonna go try removing the o-ring. Just to clarify, th o-ring is the seal that surrounds the input shaft right? I don't even know why i'm asking that question, I don't see any other thing that could be an o-ring haha.

Oh yeah, one more thing. Do I need to put a new o-ring on? How about the gasket behind the pump? P/N's?

yeah, a new oring and pump gasket are needed IMO. I don't know the PN but your local part store/transmission shop may be able to get them for you. I order them from PATC when I'm doing a build, contained in a master rebuild gasket set. Many places will sell you just the individual gaskets you need. Look in your local yellow pages for transmission supply warehouses.